need some experienced eyes on walls.

Hi, new homeowner and new diyer here.

I patched some walls and primed them, just not sure if I should go over them again. I can see some of the patch work I did previously (visible in one of the pics).

The other two pics are the product I used and a primed wall; I don't know if that primed wall should have a second coat before I paint (to my eyes, it looks messy, so I think so, but not sure).

Please help me out.

Photo Album - Imgur

 

Patching drywall takes practice, lots of it. Especially if you want the patches to not show. And patches most always show. Even professional drywallers have patches that show. Why?? Because they just want to take the money and run. It takes a good eye, hand, and practice to make them practically disappear. Not only do you have to do the patch, then you also have to match the texture if it has any.
I am not a fan of the Kilz Latex, I use the oil base when needed. But it has been years since I tried it since I didn't like it when I did. The old Kilz with red label and white can is my go to for tricky priming needs. Been using it since 1977. But -- generally, regular primer is good enough to use. But doing the patching is most important, and I can't tell by the pics if you have texture on the wall. Then one or two coats of topcoat paint to finish the job. I wouldn't worry about re-priming the wall -- use your finish topcoat-- as long as you're happy with the patching work.
And also, patching drywall often requires you add some wood backing to help support a new piece of drywall -- and then use drywall tape to join the seams. Otherwise cracks will reappear. Google for information and you'll see demos on how to do it. Of course, there's no guarantee how good they are.
And yes, the one picture shows you need to work on the patching more. Paint and primer hide nothing. And it's easier to work the material before you put paint on.

 

That top picture was not sanded enough, run your hand over it. If you can feel it, it will show. No amount of paints going to cover that up.
Looks like the compound was put on to thick and with to narrow a knife.

 

I agree, the repairs need more work. You should sand and apply more j/c over a larger area. The finish coat of mud should be applied with a 5" or 6" drywall knife. Many textures including roller stipple can be duplicated with thinned down j/c. Paint is never used to fix a repair! With a little time and skill, any repair can be made where it won't be easily noticed.

I never use the latex kilz as it does a poor job of sealing stains, also it has a bad reputation for adhesion problems

btw - welcome to the forums!

 

Keep in mind that paint actually makes imperfections stand out rather than hide them so you have to have the repair darn near perfect before you break out the primer. At least for me, this was counter-intuitive.

 

Thanks for all the answers!

Really appreciate all the answers. In the middle of a long work week, so I will get to it on Sunday when I finally have a bit of time.

I will post some more pics with the updated work as soon as I let it dry.

Should I get another primer other than kilz and go over it? will it adhere to it? is there concerns with the type (Iirc, latex vs oil) I use over it?

Again, thank you for all the help. I really appreciate it; diving into this house renovation head first with little experience is daunting, but its nice to know there is help.

 

The Kilz2 might be ok. I'm sure it wouldn't still be on the market if everyone had issues with it. As previously noted, it is a poor stain hiding primer and with the better choices available - I always choose a different primer.

I don't know a lot about the adhesion issues associated with latex kilz - just that I've heard talk of it from time to time over the yrs. Most any latex [or oil] primer/paint should adhere fine over the kilz. I would be more concerned about using latex kilz over a large area than a small repair - more to fix if it goes south.