Exterior paint feedback needed
#1
03-15-14, 03:11 PM
Exterior paint feedback needed
Quite a few projects in the works currently and one is repainting the exterior of our home. This home was built in 1959 and is a 4 level split.
My questions are:
Some of the house has a nasty orangish brick on the front. Instead of replacing the brick I'd like to paint the brick. Several houses in my area have done this successfully and it looks good. When painting brick what primer should I use and then paint? Should I spray or brush it in good? Is there a specific type of paint for brick?
When it comes to painting the siding what primer do you suggest? One area of the house sits in the sun all the time and it is really bad with paint peeling down to the wood. Would Zinser 123 primer be good?
Home Depot speaks highly of the Behr Marquee paint, Menards speaks highly of Dutch Boy or Pattsburgh Paints, etc... because that's what they carry. I'm sure Sherwin Williams and others also have their brands...
I just want to know a good paint that keeps it's color nicely and that lasts for a good period of time. Perhaps ideas of paints rated Extremely Good, Very Good, Pretty Good.
Thank you!
My questions are:
Some of the house has a nasty orangish brick on the front. Instead of replacing the brick I'd like to paint the brick. Several houses in my area have done this successfully and it looks good. When painting brick what primer should I use and then paint? Should I spray or brush it in good? Is there a specific type of paint for brick?
When it comes to painting the siding what primer do you suggest? One area of the house sits in the sun all the time and it is really bad with paint peeling down to the wood. Would Zinser 123 primer be good?
Home Depot speaks highly of the Behr Marquee paint, Menards speaks highly of Dutch Boy or Pattsburgh Paints, etc... because that's what they carry. I'm sure Sherwin Williams and others also have their brands...
I just want to know a good paint that keeps it's color nicely and that lasts for a good period of time. Perhaps ideas of paints rated Extremely Good, Very Good, Pretty Good.
Thank you!
#2
03-16-14, 04:31 AM
I don't know a lot about paint dept coatings other than they tend to stock coatings based on low price rather than quality. You'll find your better coatings [advice too] at your local paint store. Paints stores often sell cheap coatings too so you need to use their mid line or better. IMO it pays to use the best you can afford as compared to labor - the paint price is minimal.
The biggest thing to remember about painting brick is once it's painted - you can't go back to maintenance free brick. That said, I've painted a lot of brick. Brick doesn't have to have a special primer [although a masonry primer will work good] Often thinning the finish paint 10% works well as a primer. A quality house paint tends to last longer than masonry paints. Spraying may or may not be a viable option depending on location and prep. The paint should always be rolled [even when spraying] as that will work the paint into the brick. I'd use a 1.5" nap roller. Basically you slop it on so it will run into all the joints and then just before it starts to set up, roll it again to wipe out all the runs and dress it up.
Prep is very important on wood siding. After scraping if there is any chalkiness on the siding it must be coated with either an oil base primer or latex primer/paint with Flood's EmulsaBond added to the coating. Generally an oil base primer is best over raw wood. Latex house paint is usually best for the top coat. If your were to use SWP products, I'd recommend their A-100 primer and either SuperPaint or Duration for the top coat. I'm not overly familiar with the other brand's line up but basically their better or best lines will preform well.
The biggest thing to remember about painting brick is once it's painted - you can't go back to maintenance free brick. That said, I've painted a lot of brick. Brick doesn't have to have a special primer [although a masonry primer will work good] Often thinning the finish paint 10% works well as a primer. A quality house paint tends to last longer than masonry paints. Spraying may or may not be a viable option depending on location and prep. The paint should always be rolled [even when spraying] as that will work the paint into the brick. I'd use a 1.5" nap roller. Basically you slop it on so it will run into all the joints and then just before it starts to set up, roll it again to wipe out all the runs and dress it up.
Prep is very important on wood siding. After scraping if there is any chalkiness on the siding it must be coated with either an oil base primer or latex primer/paint with Flood's EmulsaBond added to the coating. Generally an oil base primer is best over raw wood. Latex house paint is usually best for the top coat. If your were to use SWP products, I'd recommend their A-100 primer and either SuperPaint or Duration for the top coat. I'm not overly familiar with the other brand's line up but basically their better or best lines will preform well.
#3
03-16-14, 09:31 AM
Group Moderator
When it comes to choosing the paint, I believe you find better products and advice at a paint store than in a paint department in a bigger store. One of the brands you mentioned from a paint department gets more complaints here than any other. I personally use only Benjamin Moore paints and I know Mark's experience is greatest with Sherwin Williams. Also keep in mind everyone makes multiple lines of paints and I wouldn't use anyone's bottom line product.
#4
03-16-14, 02:12 PM
Thank you so much for the information.
I will definitely go to our local paints stores and check them out.
When painting the siding I was planning on brushing it in as that seems the most comfortable way for me to do it, and i feel I can be more detailed and work it in better.
Is it ok to brush the brick as well or roller is better as you mentioned? Roller would be simpler I think.
Would the paint on the brick surface have the same lifetime as it would on the siding that is primed? The paint on this current house lasted almost 20 years before having to be redone and some sections which are mostly in the shade still aren't bad.
I can understand having to maintain the brick, but not for awhile after I have painted it.
I will definitely go to our local paints stores and check them out.
When painting the siding I was planning on brushing it in as that seems the most comfortable way for me to do it, and i feel I can be more detailed and work it in better.
Is it ok to brush the brick as well or roller is better as you mentioned? Roller would be simpler I think.
Would the paint on the brick surface have the same lifetime as it would on the siding that is primed? The paint on this current house lasted almost 20 years before having to be redone and some sections which are mostly in the shade still aren't bad.
I can understand having to maintain the brick, but not for awhile after I have painted it.
#5
03-16-14, 02:56 PM
Assuming proper prep and quality paint, a brick paint job should last as long [maybe longer] than the paint job on the siding.
You can brush the brick if you want, a roller is just quicker. Before rollers came out [and were accepted] brushing was the norm - mostly 8' rushes
You can brush the brick if you want, a roller is just quicker. Before rollers came out [and were accepted] brushing was the norm - mostly 8' rushes
#8
03-17-14, 07:22 PM
I visited my local Sherwin Williams today to take a look at what they offered.
When it comes to the A-100 is that a primer? The person that helped me could only find it in latex and it seemed to be a paint rather than primer. Is that correct? When looking at their website A-100 is also listed under paint rather than primer.
If I'm applying primer over an existing coat of paint do I want latex?
How would using A100 as a top coat vs. Duration or Super Paint hold up?
When it comes to the A-100 is that a primer? The person that helped me could only find it in latex and it seemed to be a paint rather than primer. Is that correct? When looking at their website A-100 is also listed under paint rather than primer.
If I'm applying primer over an existing coat of paint do I want latex?
How would using A100 as a top coat vs. Duration or Super Paint hold up?
#9
03-18-14, 04:12 AM
A-100 is a line of both primers and paints. They make both oil base and latex primer but A-100 finish paint only comes in latex. Some jurisdictions are regulating oil base coatings so it's possible it isn't available in your area. I just checked the SWP website and it appears they may have rebranded the A-100 oil base primer - Exterior Oil-Based Wood Primer - Contractors - Sherwin-Williams
A-100 used to be SWP's best latex house paint. Then they came out with SuperPaint which was better and then Duration which is touted to be better than the SuperPaint. I've been impressed with SuperPaint but haven't had occasion to use Duration.
There are a lot of factors that go into determining which primer is best for a given job. Generally oil base primers seal better and have better adhesion properties. On older homes lacking proper insulation and vapor barrier a latex primer is preferred because it 'breathes' better allowing moisture to pass thru without as much danger of it popping the paint. Latex is almost always preferred for the top coat.
IMO it would be best to wash the siding first [use TSP add bleach if there is mildew] before deciding on what primer will work best. Generally oil primer is best for raw wood and going over existing chalky paint but EB can be added to latex primer if needed so it will adhere well to any leftover chalk.
A-100 used to be SWP's best latex house paint. Then they came out with SuperPaint which was better and then Duration which is touted to be better than the SuperPaint. I've been impressed with SuperPaint but haven't had occasion to use Duration.
There are a lot of factors that go into determining which primer is best for a given job. Generally oil base primers seal better and have better adhesion properties. On older homes lacking proper insulation and vapor barrier a latex primer is preferred because it 'breathes' better allowing moisture to pass thru without as much danger of it popping the paint. Latex is almost always preferred for the top coat.
IMO it would be best to wash the siding first [use TSP add bleach if there is mildew] before deciding on what primer will work best. Generally oil primer is best for raw wood and going over existing chalky paint but EB can be added to latex primer if needed so it will adhere well to any leftover chalk.
#10
03-18-14, 12:29 PM
Do you see an issue if I wanted to use Killz as my primer? The topcoat would be SW Superpaint. If so, I think Killz General Purpose Exterior Primer would work, or Killz 2 Latex?
#11
03-18-14, 12:38 PM
I'm not familiar with exterior Kilz 
but IMO there are better primer options. I usually use the paint store brand of primer [oil or latex] The label on the finish paint you intend to use generally has a recommended primer [s] While it isn't important to use the same brand of primer you want to use a good primer. Kilz is one of the last brands I'd look at for exterior priming. Kilz 2 is reported to have adhesion issues, I don't use it, mainly because there are better primers to choose from.
but IMO there are better primer options. I usually use the paint store brand of primer [oil or latex] The label on the finish paint you intend to use generally has a recommended primer [s] While it isn't important to use the same brand of primer you want to use a good primer. Kilz is one of the last brands I'd look at for exterior priming. Kilz 2 is reported to have adhesion issues, I don't use it, mainly because there are better primers to choose from.
