Repainting basement wall after some minor water damage

A frozen/bursting outside pipe (now fixed) led to some minor water damage in the interior finished coat of a basement exterior wall. This is in an 80 year old house. The wall is a coat of finished plaster over a coat of gray first-coat (plaster as well I guess, or perhaps mortar?) over brick. The affected area is very small -- 4 feet x 4 feet. Please critique my plan:

1. Remove any top coat plaster and any first coat gray plaster/mortar that might have been compromised by the water, reaching to bare brick as needed in some areas. I won't be overly aggressive -- I will just remove what needs to be remove and leave what is in good shape
2. A coat of drylok in the bare brick area (and even in the exposed first gray coat areas)
3. A coat of the first-coat mortar in the bare brick areas as needed.
4. A coat of easy sand 20 over the first gray coat. Sanding as needed.
5. zinsser 123 primer
6. interior bm paint.

The big question that I have is: after removing the compromised material (part 1) how long do I have to wait until any remaining moisture dries before applying the drylok and proceeding? The leak was fixed 3 months ago, so no new water has been present, but I didn't remove the compromised material, which might have trapped moisture. Is 2 week after removal of the compromised material reasonable before drylok?

Thanks.

 

While drylok is normally applied to raw [unpainted] masonry, I'm not sure that mortar or plaster will adhere long term to the drylok. I'd skip the drylok, patch the plaster, prime and paint.

Generally wet plaster/masonry is a darker color when it's wet and lightens up as it dries.

 

Thanks, marksr. The plaster and first coat has been removed now. I have a 4x4 area of exposed brick. It does feel dry. If no new water has been present for several months now, and given that it feels dry to the touch, can I go ahead and put a new first coat and a new joint compound coat? Or should I wait for a couple of weeks? I was thinkin of waiting a couple of weeks if some moisture -trapping residue were to remain, but I now have bare brick, which makes me inclined to patch things immediately, if it's prudent to do so.

 

Unless the basement stays damp - the walls should be dry by now! What do you intend to use as the 1st coat over the brick? Regular j/c is water soluble and isn't a good choice if there is a chance of it getting damp in the future. I'm not a plaster guy so when I repair plaster I usually use a setting compound like Durabond which dries hard like plaster and is not water soluble. Since it can be difficult to sand, I often use j/c for the final coat.

 

Thanks. The handyman that is helping me with this has a good idea, I think. He suggests to use a mortar coat and the only coat, smooth and flush with the rest of the finished wall -- no joint compound, no plaster, just a 1-inch coat of mortar.

Unlike joint compound, the mortar won't degrade if wet. This basement wall is protected from above by the depth of a porch, whose underside is properly graded, so it is 8 feet away from any rain water. The only reason it got flooded is because the outside pipe running underneath the porch bursted. (I learned my lesson and will be more diligent about draining the pipe next winters).

Does this sound a good idea?

Also, We won't put drylock in between the brick and the mortar door, per your excellent suggestion. However, I wonder whether I should put a coat of drylock on top of the mortar, and then primer/paint on top of the drylock. I am aware that waterproofing should be done from the outside, and that, in the hopefully unlikely event that there is water in the future, the water might get trapped in the wall, but at least if won't ruin the inside paint. (If there is any water in the future, it can only be due to a burst pipe, but I will quickly realize this is going on, so I am not concerned about damage to the foundation due to trapped water in the wall.

Thanks.

 

Mortar might be ok but I really don't know for sure Mortar has a coarser finish than j/c or plaster so that might be an issue. Setting compounds like Durabond or EasySand are not water soluble and aren't coarse like mortar. Setting compounds are less likely to shrink/crack if applied thickly than j/c. I've seen thick stucco/mortar crack when it dries. Mortar might be ok, I just don't know enough to say for sure.

Drylok is a primer so no additional primer would be needed over it.