Over patched wall looks like this. How do I repair?
#1
12-01-14, 11:58 AM
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Over patched wall looks like this. How do I repair?
I removed the chair moulding from my walls in the dining area and they did not come off clean causing cracks and unevenness in the drywall. I applied joint compound and sanded by hand but after I painted it looks like this (pic). Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks
#2
12-01-14, 12:28 PM
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#3
12-01-14, 12:44 PM
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Without a pic I'm guessing but you probably didn't get the joint compound smooth enough or there's a texture on your wall you did not match. More likely is the former, as I usually see smooth walls with chair molding. If that's the case, you may need more mud or more time sanding and be sure to prime the repair before painting. Also keep in mind that paint tends to magnify imperfections rather than hide them, so you need to have the surface looking pretty darn good before the primer goes on.
#4
12-01-14, 02:37 PM
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Did you cut the paint line before removing the moulding?
The key to trying to do drywall repairs is thin coats.
May take more then one coat. All your trying to do is fill in the low spots.
Use to narrow a knife and it's always going to show.
What did you try to fill it in with?
The key to trying to do drywall repairs is thin coats.
May take more then one coat. All your trying to do is fill in the low spots.
Use to narrow a knife and it's always going to show.
What did you try to fill it in with?
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12-01-14, 04:01 PM
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#6
12-01-14, 04:04 PM
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use a 12 inch knife and spread the JC out in thin coats. Get as smooth as you can before sanding. Sometimes a damp sponge will smooth out small bumps.
#7
12-02-14, 03:00 AM
It also helps to slightly thin the j/c with water so it will flow better. Once it's all filled and sanded smooth you'll probably need to texture the repair. I couldn't tell if your walls have an orange peel texture or just roller stipple but either way to make the repair seamless it will need a light texture to make it blend.
#8
12-02-14, 05:02 AM
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Mudding is more difficult than the Saturday morning DIY TV shows make it out to be. Generally less mud is better. Novices often tend to put it on way too thick which requires a lot of sanding. A 12" knife as mentioned is best for feathering out the edges. If you photo is of the chair rail area I'd say you used too much mud as you've got trowel/spatula marks well outside the repair area. Since you've already got dried mud on the wall I'd try sanding. Use a drywall sanding boom or sanding block. They both hold the sandpaper flat so you only sand down the high spots. Sanding by hand your sanding follows the contours already there so it's more difficult to get a smooth finish.
#9
12-02-14, 06:48 AM
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As Dane said, mudding isn't easy. It's really an art.
It helps to mix the mud yourself rather than the premixed buckets. Mix it to a smooth consistency with no lumps.
The stainless steel knives are nice, but in your case it would be better to use a regular steel knife.
Use a 12" knife and put a slight bend in it. Invest in a nice tray. When applying mud, use one long smooth stroke across area you want to cover. Don't try to make it perfect on the first coat.
The ridges left by the 12" knife can be scraped off, rather than sanding. When it does come time to sand, shine a shop light at an angle to wall and you will see all the imperfections.
It helps to mix the mud yourself rather than the premixed buckets. Mix it to a smooth consistency with no lumps.
The stainless steel knives are nice, but in your case it would be better to use a regular steel knife.
Use a 12" knife and put a slight bend in it. Invest in a nice tray. When applying mud, use one long smooth stroke across area you want to cover. Don't try to make it perfect on the first coat.
The ridges left by the 12" knife can be scraped off, rather than sanding. When it does come time to sand, shine a shop light at an angle to wall and you will see all the imperfections.
#10
12-02-14, 08:06 AM
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Can I take a piece of drywall, cut the imperfect piece out of the wall, and patch the new drywall using jc + tape? Maybe the fastest and smoothest way to do it?
#11
12-02-14, 09:49 AM
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If you don't have experience with drywall repair I would avoid cutting out and replacing a section. Sheets of drywall have tapered edges to provide space for taping and mudding the joints so you end up with a smooth seam. Cutting out of the middle where there is no taper means your tape and mud must go on top, creating a hump that requires working in a larger area and more skill to conceal.
#12
12-02-14, 09:55 AM
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Definitely not the fastest and smoothest way to do it - you're already 80% of the way there and that would be starting over.
#13
12-02-14, 11:07 AM
I agree, sand what you have and dress it up as needed - a lot less work than replacement!
Regular joint compound [in a bucket/box] is water soluble so you could take a wet sponge and partially dissolve what you have and either spread it around as needed or remove some of the excess. Setting compounds [comes in a bag] are not water soluble. I normally use a wet sponge when making repairs in an occupied home because it's less messy but dry sanding [with a block or pole] is a lot easier for a novice to get it sanded flat/smooth.
Regular joint compound [in a bucket/box] is water soluble so you could take a wet sponge and partially dissolve what you have and either spread it around as needed or remove some of the excess. Setting compounds [comes in a bag] are not water soluble. I normally use a wet sponge when making repairs in an occupied home because it's less messy but dry sanding [with a block or pole] is a lot easier for a novice to get it sanded flat/smooth.
#14
12-02-14, 11:12 AM
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Okay I will give it a shot using water + sanding either today / tommorow and post the results. Thank you everyone for your insight.
#15
12-02-14, 11:29 AM
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Even a really botched job can be brought back to look great. It just may take some sanding. Most sheetrock sanding pads are available in several grits. The coarsest (lowest number) will remove material faster then you can lightly sand with a smoother (higher grit, higher number) one to remove sanding marks left by the coarse sanding.
I like wet sponging if the mud job was pretty good and only needs a light touch-up. If used too much you can return all your mudding to... mud. Sanding however allows you to just grind away as much as you want. The big trade off is dust and sheetrock dust has a magical ability to go everywhere and it loves to clog vacuums.
I like wet sponging if the mud job was pretty good and only needs a light touch-up. If used too much you can return all your mudding to... mud. Sanding however allows you to just grind away as much as you want. The big trade off is dust and sheetrock dust has a magical ability to go everywhere and it loves to clog vacuums.
