Eggshell finish with my gloss paint ?
#1
01-31-15, 03:57 PM
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Eggshell finish with my gloss paint ?
I suck or something. Every time I paint with gloss, it always eggshells. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Its warm and sunny outside so the temp should be good.
Is it because its rattle can?
Is it because its rattle can?
#2
01-31-15, 04:20 PM
Member
Are you preparing the surface exactly as directed on the can?
And are you using light strokes about 8 to 12 inches away?
Let first pass dry completely before doing another.
What are you trying to paint? Wood, metal, bamboo, furniture, concrete, large items, small items?
What effect are you trying achieve?
What paint are you using?
There are experts here who can help but you need to be very specific.
And are you using light strokes about 8 to 12 inches away?
Let first pass dry completely before doing another.
What are you trying to paint? Wood, metal, bamboo, furniture, concrete, large items, small items?
What effect are you trying achieve?
What paint are you using?
There are experts here who can help but you need to be very specific.
#4
01-31-15, 05:46 PM
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Im painting metal and plastic using rustoleum blck gloss paint.
My distance is good, I sanded everything smooth, blew it off and wiped it down with acetone to make sure there wasnt any loose paint coming off anywhere. Let it dry and then painted it.
one piece was plastic I painted red and it shelled. one piece metal painted black and it shelled.
My distance is good, I sanded everything smooth, blew it off and wiped it down with acetone to make sure there wasnt any loose paint coming off anywhere. Let it dry and then painted it.
one piece was plastic I painted red and it shelled. one piece metal painted black and it shelled.
#7
02-01-15, 03:34 AM
It sounds like the paint isn't being applied wet enough. When paint is sprayed and it's not a wet fluid coat the result will be less gloss and often not as slick a finish. Another possibility is the lack of or wrong primer which will can make the substrate suck the gloss out of the paint. Aerosol cans have the paint thinned drastically so it will atomize and come out of the can, this makes it harder to apply a heavy film of paint.
#8
02-01-15, 03:27 PM
Super Moderator
I agree with what Mark says.
You need to apply at least one or two light coats so that the entire surface is covered then apply a medium wet final coat.
It needs to be heavy enough so that the entire surface is wet but not enough to run.
Enamel paint gets its gloss from the solvent component in the paint rising to the surface.
Rustoleum metal paint is my favorite rattle can as it seems to gloss better and last longer than comparable brands.
My workplace uses Rustoleum industrial paints and not sure how accurate this is.....the salesman told us that the metal paint in rattle cans is a better quality than the equivalent paint in cans for spray gun use because the rattle cans don't follow the same VOC regs as bulk paint.
You need to apply at least one or two light coats so that the entire surface is covered then apply a medium wet final coat.
It needs to be heavy enough so that the entire surface is wet but not enough to run.
Enamel paint gets its gloss from the solvent component in the paint rising to the surface.
Rustoleum metal paint is my favorite rattle can as it seems to gloss better and last longer than comparable brands.
My workplace uses Rustoleum industrial paints and not sure how accurate this is.....the salesman told us that the metal paint in rattle cans is a better quality than the equivalent paint in cans for spray gun use because the rattle cans don't follow the same VOC regs as bulk paint.
#9
02-01-15, 03:49 PM
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Whats that mean apply a wet coat? I'm redoing it and I'm on my second coat of rustoleum black primer is drying. The primer eggshelled at first but it went smother after completely dry. The primer is so thin that when sanding particles that attached to it with 2500 grit gator paper, it took some parts down to metal.
The gloss paint i took off was super thick, I had to scrap it off and it felt like rubber.
primer directions say let dry 1-24 hours before another coat.
The gloss paint says let cure 24 hours before another coat.
In 45 minutes I will put on the gloss after sanding the floating dust particles out and hope it doesnt eggshell.
The gloss paint i took off was super thick, I had to scrap it off and it felt like rubber.
primer directions say let dry 1-24 hours before another coat.
The gloss paint says let cure 24 hours before another coat.
In 45 minutes I will put on the gloss after sanding the floating dust particles out and hope it doesnt eggshell.
#10
02-01-15, 07:12 PM
Super Moderator
I'm quite sure the instructions say re-coat within 1 hour or after 24 hours.
If you re-coat after one hour there could be a reaction between the fresh and partially cured paint.
It only has to be dry enough for the previous coat to not run but wet enough to bond to the next coat without a reaction.
It needs to be slightly tacky.
As far as a medium wet coat goes that is something you need to develop a knack for if you expect an enamel paint job to look good.
Paint needs to fully cover the surface without running to allow the solvent to rise to the surface which is where the gloss comes from.
This is the same technique used to paint a vehicle with a spray gun.
Your primer problem is a different story.
Most rattle can primers are not meant to be sanded.......if you do you need to make sure it has cured for a long time before you try to sand it.
There are primers that are specifically designed to be sanded and the cans are marked as "sand-able primer.
Normally you prep the surface so that it is smooth enough for paint.
if you have some marks that you need to fill then sand-able primer is what you need.
Sand-able primer doesn't have to dry as long as regular primer.
If you re-coat after one hour there could be a reaction between the fresh and partially cured paint.
It only has to be dry enough for the previous coat to not run but wet enough to bond to the next coat without a reaction.
It needs to be slightly tacky.
As far as a medium wet coat goes that is something you need to develop a knack for if you expect an enamel paint job to look good.
Paint needs to fully cover the surface without running to allow the solvent to rise to the surface which is where the gloss comes from.
This is the same technique used to paint a vehicle with a spray gun.
Your primer problem is a different story.
Most rattle can primers are not meant to be sanded.......if you do you need to make sure it has cured for a long time before you try to sand it.
There are primers that are specifically designed to be sanded and the cans are marked as "sand-able primer.
Normally you prep the surface so that it is smooth enough for paint.
if you have some marks that you need to fill then sand-able primer is what you need.
Sand-able primer doesn't have to dry as long as regular primer.
#11
02-01-15, 08:37 PM
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Well, it didnt turn out so great. But I guess its better then it was. This is the top to an old trolling motor. its a Shakespeare made in USA.
Attachment 45907Attachment 45908
Attachment 45907Attachment 45908
#12
02-01-15, 09:20 PM
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Ok here it is all put back together. If you still want to give me tips to help me in restorations then feel free. I could always use tips. Thanks to every one who commented.
#14
02-02-15, 03:35 AM
Probably the best way I can describe a wet fluid coat of paint would be where you spray the paint on as heavy as you can without it running or sagging. That way all the molecules [?] of the paint run together forming a nice finish. When paint is sprayed too thin or from too far away the paint starts to dry before it all flows together. Paint sprayed from a rattle can typically doesn't get applied thick enough to allow much sanding 
I've always found it easier [cheaper too] to mix and spray the paint myself rather than use an aerosol can. Spray guns typically give better control than a rattle can. Because the aerosol can has less pressure than a spray gun they have to add more solvent which means it takes more coats to get the mil thickness needed for a good looking long lasting paint job. Those solvents are also the reason for the 1hr recoat window or having to wait 24 hrs. If you recoat while the paint is in the curing stage the solvents will 'melt' the already sprayed paint and can cause it to wrinkle.
Like Greg said, the paint job looks good
aside from the utilitarian aspect of paint, it just needs to look nice with a consistent finish. The sad part is you can expect the finish to get beat up some once the motor is put into use ... although that might make you wonder later on while you obsessed so much with the finish 
I've always found it easier [cheaper too] to mix and spray the paint myself rather than use an aerosol can. Spray guns typically give better control than a rattle can. Because the aerosol can has less pressure than a spray gun they have to add more solvent which means it takes more coats to get the mil thickness needed for a good looking long lasting paint job. Those solvents are also the reason for the 1hr recoat window or having to wait 24 hrs. If you recoat while the paint is in the curing stage the solvents will 'melt' the already sprayed paint and can cause it to wrinkle.
Like Greg said, the paint job looks good
aside from the utilitarian aspect of paint, it just needs to look nice with a consistent finish. The sad part is you can expect the finish to get beat up some once the motor is put into use ... although that might make you wonder later on while you obsessed so much with the finish 
