Painting Kitchen Cabinets - Questions


  #41  
Old 03-04-15, 02:19 PM
K
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 647
Upvotes: 0
Received 4 Upvotes on 4 Posts
Clear coat will protect from fading and damage. I dont think it will prevent yellowing.

You cannot mix oil and latex paints and clear coats.

A satin or matte clear coat will give you a satin or matte sheen.

I would ask the manufacturer if they recommend a clear coat for that paint, and what it would be. Generally speaking, enamals are designed to be strong so they dont need a clear coat.


Edit... What Mark said ^^^
 
  #42  
Old 03-04-15, 02:23 PM
Nevra's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 30
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thumbs up

Thank you everyone. I'll skip the clear coat based on your recommendations. You each seem to be saying similar things.

Maybe I should install a big sky light or UV bulbs.
 
  #43  
Old 03-13-15, 09:45 AM
Nevra's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 30
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Cool

Just a little progress report: husband and I have done several steps, but are still a little ways from finishing this.

Things we've done:
  • removed doors and drawer fronts - labelled everything
  • drilled holes for hardware (previously no knobs or drawer pulls)
  • tape and plastic inside the cabinets
  • sanded in-kitchen cabinetry
  • primed cabinetry (100 grit)
  • first coat and waited over night
  • light sand (220 grit) and second coat of paint
  • sand all the doors and drawer fronts (100 grit)
  • primed the doors and drawer fronts
Things we've yet to do:
  • first coat of paint and wait
  • light sand (220 grit) and second coat of paint
  • install new hardware
  • rehang doors and drawer fronts
  • touch-ups

The remaining painting will take time. The paint takes a good 8 hours to just dry (it'll be months to cure 100%). We have 20 doors and 11 drawer fronts, so it'll be a lot of waiting to get everything painted on both sides. Thankfully our garage has space for all of this!

I have been taking pictures and will post them when we're done.
 
  #44  
Old 03-13-15, 10:50 AM
Shadeladie's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: PA - USA
Posts: 4,774
Received 347 Upvotes on 278 Posts
I have been taking pictures and will post them when we're done.
Feel free to post one before and after pic, however, if you're wanting to post several showing your progress, you'll need to upload them to the "Did It Myself" section.
Did it Myself! | DoItYourself.com
 
  #45  
Old 03-30-15, 11:29 AM
Nevra's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 30
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Before.
Name:  Looking Rightward - Imgur.jpg
Views: 541
Size:  22.7 KB

After.

Name:  Painting - Kitchen - Pulls.jpg
Views: 469
Size:  16.7 KB

And after flooring install.
 
  #46  
Old 03-30-15, 11:36 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,228
Received 754 Upvotes on 659 Posts
Now you can sit back, relax with the beverage of your choice and enjoy the bragging rites you earned
 
  #47  
Old 03-30-15, 11:45 AM
Nevra's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 30
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts


ALMOST. I put a new coat of paint on the trim pieces, and we did some minor wall repairs. So we need to reinstall the trim and do touchups with wall paint.

Also conspicuously not pictured is the stair case. We did get the landing done (see below) and have solid white oak treads (much cheaper than white ash and similar color). They need poly'd and cut to size. We plan to put in white risers because it's easy, cheap, and will look good. All of these things are so minor compared to the cabinets painting and hardwood installation (9 full days of work just my husband and me).

 
  #48  
Old 03-30-15, 12:59 PM
K
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 647
Upvotes: 0
Received 4 Upvotes on 4 Posts
Everything looks great! Quite an improvement and the flooring makes a huge difference in the look of the space. Are you happy with the paint you ended up choosing? Would you use it again for a similar project?
 
  #49  
Old 03-30-15, 01:41 PM
Nevra's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 30
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
It is a little too soon to tell. My initial reaction is a resounding yes! It was so easy to work with and leveled beautifully despite my novice hand. However it won't be fully cured for another 10ish weeks. I won't confidently know how well it truly doesn't yellow (it is oil-based) for years. It does take a long time to dry - 8 hours. That was annoying, but workable.
 
  #50  
Old 03-30-15, 02:55 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,228
Received 754 Upvotes on 659 Posts
For the most part, oil base enamels cure in about 72 hrs provided the humidity is low and temps normal.

I've always thought BM's Impervo was a fine oil base enamel although I haven't used any in probably 10 yrs or more. While I can't attest to how soon it will yellow, generally the cheap oil enamels yellow quickly and the better enamels take longer to yellow. Not sure I've ever seen an interior oil base enamel not yellow given enough time
 
  #51  
Old 03-30-15, 03:02 PM
Nevra's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 30
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
BM says true curing takes up to 3 months and market it as resistant to yellowing (or some similar wording). As you say, time will tell.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: