Sequence for painting walls and trim
#1
04-28-15, 03:22 PM
Sequence for painting walls and trim
A friend just closed on their new (old) home (800 miles away) and they will be painting the entire inside before they move in. Currently has stained trim which they will be painting. I would normally mask everything and then paint ceiling and then walls, but where the trim will be painted I would hate to come back and mask with tape on the freshly painted walls. Plus I assume the trim should be primed.
Sequence and advice needed.
Bud
Sequence and advice needed.
Bud
#2
04-28-15, 06:59 PM
Group Moderator
I would paint the ceiling first (cut in and roll)... and then scuff sand and oil prime any trim, then paint it. Then cut in the walls and roll them last. Only place to use tape is probably over the top edge of the baseboard to prevent roller splatter.
#3
04-28-15, 07:21 PM
They are novice DIYers so I was thinking the painter's tape and worried about it removing any new paint, but I agree, avoiding the tape and just taking their time to cut in the edges should work fine. Top down, thanks.
Bud
Bud
#4
04-29-15, 03:13 AM
I'd prime the stained woodwork first. It will also need to be sanded [before/after primer] and caulked. It's best to use a solvent based primer to insure good adhesion to the poly/varnish!
As X said you always start from the top and work your way down. When the woodwork paints the same color as the walls I normally apply the enamel last but when there are opposing colors I find it easier to finish all the trim [except the base] before painting the walls.
It's better not to use tape! Tape tends to give a false sense of security, paint can seep under tape and any paint bond between the tape/wall can cause peeling when removed unless that bond is cut first. Also because it can take a week or two for latex paint to cure removing the tape can lift fresh paint. While it's less of a concern with loc tac tape it can still happen
As X said you always start from the top and work your way down. When the woodwork paints the same color as the walls I normally apply the enamel last but when there are opposing colors I find it easier to finish all the trim [except the base] before painting the walls.
It's better not to use tape! Tape tends to give a false sense of security, paint can seep under tape and any paint bond between the tape/wall can cause peeling when removed unless that bond is cut first. Also because it can take a week or two for latex paint to cure removing the tape can lift fresh paint. While it's less of a concern with loc tac tape it can still happen
#5
04-29-15, 03:20 PM
Thanks Mark and X, I have passed along your advice. Of all of the things I have done, painting has to be the bottom of the list. My last big project I purchased a SW sprayer and man it lays on the paint. Of course this was new construction so no taping or cutting in, not even a roller to be found. Over 15,000 sq ft of surface got painted with most having 16' ceilings. Love that sprayer.
Thanks again
Bud
Thanks again
Bud
#6
04-29-15, 03:30 PM
An airless can save a lot of time but it's still a good idea to back roll the walls/ceilings after you spray the paint on - makes for a better looking paint job and will touch up better too.
Did you use the wand extension or pole gun when spraying the ceilings?
Did you use the wand extension or pole gun when spraying the ceilings?
#7
04-29-15, 04:12 PM
I am not a painter, but I hate tape. My theory, which I always share with anyone asking advice, is that you are going to get just as many, maybe more, overruns or whatever you want to call them with tape as without. Top down, ceilings, walls, then trim. Sure, you'll spend more time on the trim without tape, but, after the first 10' or so, you have the feel of the brush, and it runs pretty good. And the nice thing is that what you are looking at as you brush the paint is not what you will see once it's done. A smudge here or there that you see when looking at a 3-4' section of trim is oblivious when you walk into a painted room full of furniture, pictures, etc. I don't know, maybe I'm too darn old, but some people spend way to much time worrying about one little glitch in a room full of furniture.
#8
04-29-15, 04:20 PM
I used a JLG scissor lift that would go through a 36" door and a wand. The roll around staging was good for some work, but slow and didn't fit through the doors. It was my commercial space so I didn't worry about back rolling.
The first house I built in NJ, which someone sent me a link saying it just went on the market,
Beautiful Home ~ Large Property! - 331 18th Ave., Brick, NJ 08724 (1333750), I found a painter that just sprayed everything. He had a 50 gallon drum in his van and painted the entire inside in about 2 hours for $240 if memory serves me. He actually did a great job and it provided a good base for painting the desired colors. Wow that was a long time ago.
Thanks again.
Bud
The first house I built in NJ, which someone sent me a link saying it just went on the market,
Beautiful Home ~ Large Property! - 331 18th Ave., Brick, NJ 08724 (1333750), I found a painter that just sprayed everything. He had a 50 gallon drum in his van and painted the entire inside in about 2 hours for $240 if memory serves me. He actually did a great job and it provided a good base for painting the desired colors. Wow that was a long time ago.
Thanks again.
Bud
#9
04-30-15, 03:25 AM
I used to work for an outfit that bought cheap wall paint direct from a local paint manufacturer in 55 gallon drums and sprayed interiors with a Graco 733 [3 gal per minute max output] We bought 3-5 drums per day and painted around 1000 houses/condos/apartments per year. 25-30 yrs ago that paint cost about $3 per gallon. It wasn't great paint [not very washable] but it did touch up well.
