Painting over stained railings/spindles
#1
07-13-15, 10:34 AM
Painting over stained railings/spindles
Last year, we had the floors in our house refinished and so the railings/spindles on the interior staircase no longer match the floor color. The company that did the floors recommended just painting them as opposed to trying to re-stain to match the floors.
So, I have a few questions when getting started on this project:
1. Should I sand first or use deglosser? Or both?
2. I'm guessing I will want to prime with an oil-based primer, correct?
3. The hand rails are going to end up black. Should I get some of the primer tinted to go under that?
4. Once prepped and primed, is semi-gloss latex paint OK?
Thanks for any suggestions.
So, I have a few questions when getting started on this project:
1. Should I sand first or use deglosser? Or both?
2. I'm guessing I will want to prime with an oil-based primer, correct?
3. The hand rails are going to end up black. Should I get some of the primer tinted to go under that?
4. Once prepped and primed, is semi-gloss latex paint OK?
Thanks for any suggestions.
#2
07-13-15, 10:58 AM
#1 - sanding is almost a must, I generally do both
#2 - yes, solvent based primers adhere better to poly/varnish than latex primers
#3 - You probably can't get a black primer but dark grey would help. If you want to use an oil base black enamel you can skip the primer; just sand and apply the black enamel, sand lightly when dry and apply the final coat.
#4 - yes although latex enamels don't dry to as hard a film as oil base or waterborne. There is a big difference between the cheap latex enamels and the quality ones.
How big is the color difference between the new flooring and the handrail? Using a tinted poly might be a consideration if you aren't completely sold on black paint.
#2 - yes, solvent based primers adhere better to poly/varnish than latex primers
#3 - You probably can't get a black primer but dark grey would help. If you want to use an oil base black enamel you can skip the primer; just sand and apply the black enamel, sand lightly when dry and apply the final coat.
#4 - yes although latex enamels don't dry to as hard a film as oil base or waterborne. There is a big difference between the cheap latex enamels and the quality ones.
How big is the color difference between the new flooring and the handrail? Using a tinted poly might be a consideration if you aren't completely sold on black paint.
#3
07-13-15, 11:11 AM
Group Moderator
1. Definitely sand to scuff up the surface. Deglosser isn't necessary but can be of help.
2. I would.
3. You can but I hate painting and always apply multiple coats while I'm at it which would likely solve the problem as well.
4. Yes and it's probably what I would use as well unless your walls are semi gloss, in which case I would then use gloss.
2. I would.
3. You can but I hate painting and always apply multiple coats while I'm at it which would likely solve the problem as well.
4. Yes and it's probably what I would use as well unless your walls are semi gloss, in which case I would then use gloss.
#5
07-14-15, 07:41 AM
Group Moderator
All you're doing is scuffing up the surface so the next layer of paint sticks better. I wouldn't use anything more aggressive than 150 grit and I'd do it by hand.
#6
07-14-15, 07:47 AM
Hand sanding should be fine, especially considering a sander won't get into all the different contours of the spindles and rail. I'd use 120-180 grit, mostly depending on what I had on hand. Coarser than 120 and you'll have to deal with sanding scratches and finer than 180 might not rough it up enough for good adhesion.
