Pine panelling

Old 04-16-01, 01:14 AM
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I would like to paint our pine panelling in the kitchen so that it lookes old and cracked in a blue/grey colour, but I don't want it to look like it just needs a new paint job. I think the technique is called 'destressed' or something like that. How do I do it????
Old 04-16-01, 08:21 PM
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Distressed can come in several different forms. The one I think you want is one called crackling.

Pick a base color and a top color. You can use dark on top or as a base color.

1.fine-grit sandpaper and sanding sealer (or white shellac) if you are doing this on an unpainted surface.
2.paint for primer, latex base and top color
3.hide glue or product for this purpose (if you choose the later follow manufacters directions).
4.masking tape
5.clear polyurethane varnish
6.a 2"wide nylon brush

Lightly sand wood and seal with sanding sealer or shellac to prevent wood blemishes (if raw wood) from bleeding though. Paint with primer followed with base coat. When dry, use masking tape to tape off areas that are to be crackled (not needed if everything is to be crackled).

Mix a solution of two parts hide glue to one part water in a disposable container. Stir thoroughly. Then, using the nylon brush and long, smooth strokes, apply the glue mixture evenly over the surface of the paneling. When finished, rinse the brush immediately in tepid water to clean. Let the glue coat dry thoroughly. (This may take as long as 3-4 days, depending on the humidity.). Note: mine took a few hours. When the glue coat is dry, apply a coat of your top color. Besure that you have plenty of paint on your brush using long, even strokes. Do not, DO NOT, over lap your strokes. The paint will start to crackle after 20-30 seconds. Allow the paint to dry for 24 hours or more; seal the finish with two coats of polyurethane varnish.
Old 04-17-01, 07:21 AM
Sonnie Layne
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Good form Gini!!!

A couple of questions regarding the technique if you don't mind.

I'm supposing the latex paint "re-activates" the hide glue solution which then re-shrinks and this is why you can't overlap???

Have you tried applying the glue over the paint or mixing the glue with the paint?

Do you use the glue flakes or the ready-made hide glue now available? I'm supposing that since you are measuring parts, that you are using the liquid form?

Thanks for the time.

Sonnie the ever-curious
Old 04-17-01, 08:43 AM
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I am not sure why it reactes like it does but if you over lap your paint lifts up as if you rubbed it. Thats why I said to put lots of paint on the brush.

No, I have never tried it that way. It would be an interesting experiment though.

You are right about it being liquid. I didn't even know you could get it in a dry form.

Old 04-17-01, 09:37 PM
Sonnie Layne
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Then it's as I suspected.

I'll dare to offer a discourse in hide glue and it's properties as I understand them. Nope, can't promise this will be brief, but as you've come to know me I'm not short winded.

It shrinks upon curing! It ain't waterproof!

It's great for building furniture you see, because as the dowels/tenons/dovetails are fitted and coated with the stuff, it drys and shrinks in the passing, actually drawing the joints tighter together. This was more important some years ago when, for instance, dovetail joints were had by hand saws and a good eye rather than a $300 router and a $500 dovetail jig. It's also a blessing in disguise for us that repair same in that with a bit of hot water, the joint will come apart, and can be repaired with a bit more hide glue. So unlike the white/yellow recorcinols that won't come apart when you need them to and won't stick to themselves.

The shrinking has also been used in glue-flaked glass. A lost art sadly. You pour the hot glue onto the glass, it clings, then begins shrinking, pulling out chips or flakes of glass, leaving you a much more sophisticated and charming "obscure" glass than you can buy at any price nowdays.

Yes you can buy the glue flakes, just as you can shellac flakes and make your own. Hot water and hide = glue. Temperature is moderately important and we used to keep the pot going continuously, just adding a bit more water and a bit more glue flake daily in the luthiers shop just as a good Cajun would just keep the grit pot goin'. (An don chever watch dat pot down, eel kill da oils, cher)

Now, with these qualities, you can understand how you can crackle latex paints. The way you do it, you lay the glue down, let it dry. But when you top coat it with the latex, you are re-activating the glue via the water. Then it shrinks and dries very rapidly, drawing the paint in with it, thus the fractures. And thus the import of not lapping strokes, because you'd just be mopping up glue if you did. Does that sound about right?

Now...given all that, if you laid down the paint, waited til it was just about to dry off (so's yer brush wooden stick to it) and followed with the glue, the glue should draw up the paint in the same fashion. Spraying would be ideal. After drying you should be able to dampen and wipe off the glue leaving the paint to finish as you want.

Alternatively I'm also thinking if the liquid glue were used as an additive to the latex paint (or acrylic urethane), then it would still draw up and crackle the finish. As in the glue-flaked glass traditions, the depth, size and finish of the crackle could be determined by the measure of flakes per quantity of water, the temperature and the humidity. My thoughts are that it would be important to not let the latex set before the glue was applied in the first two instances so that the latex could "slide" on the underlying substrate.

I happen to have some of Franklin's hide glue open at the job site (been repairing an 1805 wine rack) and an assortment of acrylic latex finishes. I'll try it all out as soon as I can get a grip on finishing up the electrical and plumbing and tiling and pecan floor refinishing. I'll get back with you.

All this has been presented to all of you from all of me because I suspect there may be an ear

to hear

Hope I haven't just knocked down a few kazillion electrons for no good result.

My best

Sonnie (the incredulous) Layne
Old 04-17-01, 10:49 PM
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Well, I am sure you know more than I do when it comes to that kind of thing. It was very interesting to read. I love information. So much so that I collect ideas and how to's that look like something I might want to do myself. I think I come from the original DYI family. My dad never highered anyone to help us do any of the work around our house. I grew up painting, digging, building granite walls (my mom's passion-she could put a wall together without morter and have it hold together-NO TRANINING), and lets not leave off roofing. I was very proud to say that I could do anything a guy could do and do it better!

Thanks again for the info. Yes, there is an ear. Mine at least.

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