Kitchen Cabinet repaint
#1
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Kitchen Cabinet repaint
Oh, 8 or so years ago I painted wood kitchen cabinets without doing much research. I used Kilz primer and Dutch Boy latex paint. It's been ok at best, but now we're considering putting the house on the market. I think a redo is in order, and I'd love to hear any of the advice out there.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
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Welcome to the forums!
Which Kilz primer did you use? oil base or latex?
What is the current condition of the paint? Would sanding and applying another coat of enamel get the job done? pics could be helpful - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
Which Kilz primer did you use? oil base or latex?
What is the current condition of the paint? Would sanding and applying another coat of enamel get the job done? pics could be helpful - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
#3
I work on a lot of counter top only jobs, people want to keep their existing cabinets.
I've seen more and more customers painting with this kit:
Rust-Oleum Transformations Dark Color Cabinet Kit (9-Piece)-258240 - The Home Depot
I've seen average homeowners get professional results, every time I've seen this paint.
I've seen more and more customers painting with this kit:
Rust-Oleum Transformations Dark Color Cabinet Kit (9-Piece)-258240 - The Home Depot
I've seen average homeowners get professional results, every time I've seen this paint.
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I used Kilz 2, a latex primer. 

Hopefully the pictures display. The cabinets are in pretty fair shape except where there's been rubbing (for instance, with todlers we use dowel rods through the handles of drawers, and that's rubbed the pain somewhat off).


Hopefully the pictures display. The cabinets are in pretty fair shape except where there's been rubbing (for instance, with todlers we use dowel rods through the handles of drawers, and that's rubbed the pain somewhat off).
#5
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I hate to say it but Kilz2 isn't a very good primer and doesn't always adhere well to cabinets and woodwork
Short of stripping off the existing paint the best plan of attack would be to aggressively sand the areas with chipped paint, prime those areas as needed and apply a fresh coat of enamel. Care must be used when sanding to spread it out and not sand 'dips' into the finish.

#6
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I'm with Mark, you've made this job tougher with your choice of primer and now you're going to have to do more sanding as a result.
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I'll resign myself to some sanding. Let me shift the conversation a bit... what, after sanding and spot priming, do you recommend using as paint? I have a number of options nearby...Pittsburgh, Dutch Boy, Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, etc. The more specific the better for me!
Thanks!
Thanks!
#8
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I prefer waterborne enamel like SWP's ProClassic enamel. The other manufactures probably have similar [I know BM does] but I've not used them. Waterborne enamels dry to a hard film similar to oil base enamels but doesn't yellow like oil base does. There is a big quality difference between the cheap latex enamels and the quality ones.
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The local BM retailer does not carry that kind. How would this work: https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...tin-paint.html
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