Caulked crown/ceiling gap - 6 months later it's separating
#1
12-11-17, 04:26 PM
Caulked crown/ceiling gap - 6 months later it's separating
Okay, I bought the caulk at Home Depot but I thought it was supposed to be decent caulk. (BF siad he uses this all the time and it should be fine.)
DAP Alex Painter's All-Purpose Acrylic Latex Caulk
Painted and caulked the crown/ceiling gap (that became noticeable after I painted cabs white of course) and it looked great, until about a week ago. I noticed a long crack down the whole length of the cabinets. BF tells me it's due to the cold weather and the fact that I keep it pretty cool in the house. So what the heck can I use to NOT crack? It needs to be paintable.
DAP Alex Painter's All-Purpose Acrylic Latex Caulk
Painted and caulked the crown/ceiling gap (that became noticeable after I painted cabs white of course) and it looked great, until about a week ago. I noticed a long crack down the whole length of the cabinets. BF tells me it's due to the cold weather and the fact that I keep it pretty cool in the house. So what the heck can I use to NOT crack? It needs to be paintable.
#2
12-11-17, 05:14 PM
Caulk is not glue and it can only handle so much movement. There is pretty much no amount of caulking (or any different type) that will prevent the crown moulding seam from cracking. You are dealing with separate things that move differently. The best you can do is simply caulk it again this time of year when it is the coldest outside.
#3
12-11-17, 07:42 PM
Obviously it's not glue. I know that. But I don't know anyone that has to re caulk their crown molding every year either.
I am fine with recaulking, once. But I don't want to have to do this every year. Is there a better caulk that I should be using?
I am fine with recaulking, once. But I don't want to have to do this every year. Is there a better caulk that I should be using?
#4
12-11-17, 07:44 PM
You must not know many people with crown moulding then, because it needs continual maintenance. If the crown moulding is installed against a ceiling truss, the problem is much worse because the trusses rise and fall with the temperatures. Much also depends on how well the crown moulding was nailed... the type of caulk that was used... whether the ceiling was painted or if you were caulking to raw joint compound. There are a lot of reasons the caulk could fail.
Maybe marksr will be along to give his caulk recommendation.
Maybe marksr will be along to give his caulk recommendation.
#5
12-11-17, 08:43 PM
It's ONLY the crown that is above the cabinets. The rest of it still looks good - no cracks anywhere.
I have to assume that ceiling was painted, I didn't paint it but it's white and I assume that it was painted when the house was built, 23 years ago.
I have to assume that ceiling was painted, I didn't paint it but it's white and I assume that it was painted when the house was built, 23 years ago.
#7
12-12-17, 12:03 AM
You must not know many people with crown molding then, because it needs continual maintenance.
Have to agree, a house moves a lot , more due to humidity than temps but they are related. I have a lot of crown in my house, everything is nailed and glued but some spots show some splitting of he caulk.
Usually it's a one off repair, to fill the fill but as noted if not secured it;s just going to come back eventually!
#8
12-12-17, 02:29 AM
I'm not fond of DAP caulk, I normally use White Lightning. There are some polyurethane caulks which will do better but they can be hard to find.
Humidity changes play a bigger part in the movement than temperature changes. As noted above - crown is problematic, mainly because in most houses it's difficult to nail it securely. The builders that add extra blocking in the framing seem to have less problems with the crown. Larger crown is more apt to have problems than the smaller crown.
Caulking over the cracked caulking won't help much, it's best to cut/pull out the failed caulk - then recaulk.
Humidity changes play a bigger part in the movement than temperature changes. As noted above - crown is problematic, mainly because in most houses it's difficult to nail it securely. The builders that add extra blocking in the framing seem to have less problems with the crown. Larger crown is more apt to have problems than the smaller crown.
Caulking over the cracked caulking won't help much, it's best to cut/pull out the failed caulk - then recaulk.
#9
12-12-17, 06:43 AM
Like Mark, I've not had much success using DAP products. What I use is Elmer's Squeez' N Caulk. This is a siliconized acrilyc latex caulk and unlike the DAP Alex it seems to stay flexible for years after I have placed it. It comes in tubes and also a plastic squeeze bottle with a resealable tip.
#11
12-13-17, 07:14 PM
marksr, I looked up the White Lightning caulk. Lots of different types. Would the 3006™ ADVANCED FORMULA be the one I would want to use?
https://www.wlcaulk.com/product/3006-advanced-formula/
These products seem to get good reviews as well, with no cracking. Guess I will try one of them. Sure wish I had known about the cracking thing, I would much rather spend a few bucks on better caulk, the first time.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Big-Stretch...-Caulk/4411173
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Extr...8715/301531804
https://www.wlcaulk.com/product/3006-advanced-formula/
These products seem to get good reviews as well, with no cracking. Guess I will try one of them. Sure wish I had known about the cracking thing, I would much rather spend a few bucks on better caulk, the first time.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Big-Stretch...-Caulk/4411173
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Extr...8715/301531804
Last edited by yardnut; 12-13-17 at 10:01 PM.
#12
12-13-17, 07:27 PM
Do you have engineered (fink style) trusses, or is it stick built, with rafters and ceiling joists?
Trusses tend to rise and fall with temperature and humidity... which is a common reason that crown moulding pops loose with the seasons. If there is an area that is especially problematic, you could see the top edge could be nailed better (installers often do not nail small cabinet crown moulding to the ceiling)
... or like marksr mentioned... you could use a polyurethane sealant... they are usually oil based and must be tooled with paint thinner and they take longer to cure than latex caulks. So if you use an oil based polyurethane you might have to wait a week after caulking to repaint.
Trusses tend to rise and fall with temperature and humidity... which is a common reason that crown moulding pops loose with the seasons. If there is an area that is especially problematic, you could see the top edge could be nailed better (installers often do not nail small cabinet crown moulding to the ceiling)
... or like marksr mentioned... you could use a polyurethane sealant... they are usually oil based and must be tooled with paint thinner and they take longer to cure than latex caulks. So if you use an oil based polyurethane you might have to wait a week after caulking to repaint.
#13
12-14-17, 02:30 AM
The 3006 caulk is what I normally use. While I've not used much of it the Big Stretch has a good rep and is probably what I'd use if available. A polyurethane caulk normally works the best but the paint stores around here don't always have it in stock. Even the best caulks can only stretch so much.
#14
12-14-17, 08:22 AM
Just be aware, caulking only will not solve the problem, it needs to be securely held in place.
BTW, I always use DOW, never had issues so I would not go too far out of your way for something else!
BTW, I always use DOW, never had issues so I would not go too far out of your way for something else!
#15
12-14-17, 08:58 AM
"Do you have engineered (fink style) trusses, or is it stick built, with rafters and ceiling joists?"
No idea. I've been in the attic a jillion times but I don't know enough about construction to know which it is. I think it's rafters and ceiling joists. House is 23 years old.
"Just be aware, caulking only will not solve the problem, it needs to be securely held in place."
I don't have any way to do that at this point. Crown is at the top of soffit above cabinets, and it's been there 23 years. It's not going anywhere very far. :-) I will give the other caulk a go.
Thanks all.
#16
12-14-17, 09:45 AM
Engineered trusses [quite likely what you have] are built at a factory. Generally all the ones in the attic will look the same. They generally span from one exterior wall to the opposite exterior wall. There will be steel plates everywhere 2 pieces of wood come together. Most are built out of 2x4s. There may be an engineering stamp/tag on them somewhere.
#17
12-15-17, 06:23 PM
No steel plates anywhere. 2x6 rafters. Pretty sure it's not trusses. And as I said, none of the caulk in any other crown (I did the entire kitchen and dining room) has cracked - only that above the cabinets. I ordered some Big Stretch and will see how that does.
Should I use a pressure washer instead?
Is it because I waited too long? I should scrap then wash and prime within a short time period?
Should I take a sander and sand the edges of the paint I scraped off?
When I do prime it, what would be a good primer on a partially painted wood surface? Would Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start be a good choice?