Zinser Peel and stop primer for 1971 cedar shingles?


  #41  
Old 07-13-18, 02:42 AM
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Lead was only used in oil base coatings [both finish and primer] BUT it's been banned from residential use since the late 70s.

I don't have much experience with Gripper so I can't really comment on how well it will do. The main proponents for oil base primer is it normally adheres better than latex and does a better job of blocking tannin bleed. While tannin bleed is a big issue with cedar, your siding is probably old enough that it's no longer an issue. I've never noticed oil primer becoming brittle as long as it was top coated in a timely manner.
 
  #42  
Old 08-26-18, 10:30 PM
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I'm now entering the 3rd side of my house painting. Should I be priming the shingles where the paint is really on good, etc?

Is there any benefit to priming over good paint? Or should I just paint two topcoats and call it a day where the paint is good?

Also, I'm worried that there's not gable vents on this house, but there are soffit vents . Is that something to be concerned about? You can see in the last pic below with the gray paint that there aren't any gable vents.

Just looked up 'ridge vents' and looked at a pic I took when I was on my roof and there's a layer of shingles over the ridge of my roof. I'm hoping this is a ridge vent?
 
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Last edited by Brian1900; 08-26-18 at 11:02 PM.
  #43  
Old 08-27-18, 03:02 AM
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Normally there is no need to prime existing sound paint.

A ridge vent sets an inch or so above the ridge. Some will install shingles over if but many do not. Next to the gable I see no evidence of a ridge vent. There are 3 types of exhaust vents for attic ventilation; gable vent, ridge vent and vents that are installed on the roof decking near the peak.
 
  #44  
Old 08-27-18, 02:47 PM
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I do have shingles on the very peak of the roof and it LOOKS raised from the picture I took when I was up putting the chimney cover on (I document everything, since this is my first time doing a lot of these things and I like to keep a pictorial record).

From what I can see in the picture the shigles on the very peak are installed length wise across the peak and from what I can make out the ends are about an inch OR SO above at either side.

I'll have to go up again and take a better look. I do have soffit vents all around the house from what I can see. They're like a line of tiny holes? How do I maintain these by the way? Should I vacuum them every once in a while from the outside , etc?

I was trying to post a picture, but it said something about me exceeding storage or something?


Thanks again.
 

Last edited by stickshift; 10-02-18 at 01:24 PM. Reason: Removed quoting of entire post
  #45  
Old 08-28-18, 03:22 AM
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I've never known of the soffit vent holes getting plugged by dirt but often they get plugged with paint. If painting them I always try to dry brush over them to prevent paint build up that might plug the holes. When possible I don't paint the vents.

here is an example of a ridge vent - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Owens-Corni...-Vent/50114120
 
  #46  
Old 08-29-18, 05:26 PM
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Mark I was looking today at them when I was up painting the trim and it looks as though the shingles are about 1/2 inch above the peak on each side. I didn't get close enough to look closely, but there IS something beneath each end of the shingle that goes over the peak of the roof.

Tomorrow I'll see if I can get up there and get a close up pic.

If I don't have a ridge vent, is that something that was common to leave out in 1971? Would it be out of the ordinary to ONLY have soffit vents?

I don't think I have any other attic vents besides the soffit and maybe the ridge vent if there is one.
 

Last edited by stickshift; 10-02-18 at 01:24 PM. Reason: Removed quoting of entire post
  #47  
Old 08-30-18, 03:58 AM
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Soffit vents make up the intake portion of the attic ventilation. They are pretty much worthless if there isn't an exit [gable, ridge or roof vent] Can you get in the attic and see if you see any light coming thru at the ridge?
 
  #48  
Old 09-01-18, 06:41 PM
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Caulking is now shrinking in between the cedar shakes on the previous side that I completed.

Consequently the paint is coming off on a good deal of that caulking in very thin lines down the cracks and exposing "white" colored caulk. I had switched to dark caulking after using up the white since I'm using dark navy paint.

I realize that caulk expands and shrinks. Maybe I shouldn't have used it so liberally, but it looked good at first.

The shrinking has now left rather tiny "cracks" between some of the siding that I had previously covered with the caulk originally.

Should I just leave the small cracks and maybe just touch up the paint covering the "white" of the caulk?

Should I apply a little more caulking over the cracks?

Should I be using polyurethane instead? I heard it's better and doesn't shrink.

I also read that shrinkage is a good thing and the caulk is doing what it's supposed to?
 
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Old 09-02-18, 03:16 AM
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Is the caulk separating from the shingle on either side or just small cracks in the caulk it self. The latter is normal especially if the caulk was painted before it had time to set. Generally another coat of paint is the fix. If the caulk separated from the shingles you'd need to cut it out and either leave it out or recaulk. Caulk is formulated to expand/contract a little but that isn't normally an issue under latex paint.

Polyurethane caulk is better although it does cost more and is a little more difficult to apply. I normally only use it in situations where I expect there might be issues with the caulk holding up.
 
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Old 09-02-18, 03:45 PM
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Thanks Mark. In places it looks like just the paint is coming off in a line like a crack. In other the caulk has split right through in the middle between the 2 siding pieces and you can see right through it to the other side, etc. They're very small cracks. I think the caulking is attached though to each adjacent siding piece.

Basically what I think is happening is the siding is shrinking and swelling cause that side of the house gets the full sun and gets very hot during the summer days and then cools later in the day and night and then caulking split down the middle breaking and each half staying affixed to each adjacent shingle.

The resulting gap(s) are way less than 1/8 of an inch so I'm not sure if they're something to worry about and lke you said maybe I'll just touch up the "white' with a little blue paint rather than apply more caulking over it and then have that split too?
 

Last edited by stickshift; 10-02-18 at 01:24 PM. Reason: Removed quoting of entire post
  #51  
Old 09-03-18, 03:17 AM
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Dark colors will heat up more in the sunlight which could result in more expansion/contraction. Touching up the caulk with paint should be sufficient.
 
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Old 09-03-18, 03:03 PM
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Right and I shouldn't of used white caulk! I guess live and learn. I switched to SW Powerhouse brown 2 bottles in though and now use that to fill any large gaps.
 

Last edited by stickshift; 10-02-18 at 01:24 PM. Reason: Removed quoting of entire post
  #53  
Old 10-01-18, 02:28 PM
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I'm on the last side and October is here so I'm trying my best to get this side done quickly. Most of the paint is not "peeling", but a run of the scraper sideways over areas will immediately pull the paint off down to the bare wood, which is what I've been doing before priming.

Id Worse case I just primed over these areas instead of purposely scraping them off what would happen? Could I just come back next year as these areas MAY begin peeling and touch those areas up instead of scraping them off now?

What I mean is that these areas are "adhered" , but of course not extremely well since dragging the scraper pulls them right off, but they are not yet peeling and in fact very few areas on this side of the house are really actively "peeling".
 
  #54  
Old 10-02-18, 03:12 AM
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Fresh paint usually gives the old not adhered paint a little more time but at some point the old will peel taking the new with it. Personally I'd either do it right or wait until spring to finish. Maybe hire a neighbor kid to help with the prep.
 
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Old 10-05-18, 04:10 PM
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Is rolling the paint on as effective as brushing? Today I discovered the "ease" of using a 4 inch roller to LOAD the paint onto the grooved shakes and I must admit it was A LOT easier than brushing.

I feel though that I'm "cheating" if that makes any sense! I did BACK BRUSH, but thought really that there's maybe no point to it as I think the roller puts the paint on just like the brush.

I was really getting into a groove (no pun intended!) today scraping with the side of my 3 in 1 scraper as quite a bit of the lower shingles flake right off in sheets as I run the scraper down a groove in the shingle.

It's impossible (without driving myself nuts and of course now that it's October time is limited) to get EVERY SINGLE piece of paint and some times there are pieces left here and there in grooves, with maybe 90-95% bare wood surrounding the "stripes" of left over paint.

Will this paint be adhered with the new primer a little? Rather than driving myself nuts getting every last small piece of paint.

Thanks
 
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Old 10-06-18, 03:26 AM
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Rolled on paint should adhere just as well as brushed on. It is possible there will be a noticeable 'texture' difference. Rollers are prone to leave a roller stipple [orange peel] but then a brush often leaves brush marks. It's doubtful this difference would be noticeable from one side of the house to another.
 
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Old 10-13-18, 07:46 AM
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https://assets.doityourself.com/forum/images/classicnext/editor/color.gif

It's getting colder here in Maine and I got another 2 weeks (hopefully) to finish the last side of the house.

I'm using Resilience paint and am wondering about if the nights are too cold for the paint. I of course paint when it's in the 50's in the day, but the forecast is calling for as low as 32 F next week on days that I can paint.

Resilience is supposed to be able to be applied at 35, but I'm not sure if it can get colder. If I do it while it's in the 50s during the day and it has a good 4 hours to dry or better before sinking to 30's is that ok?
 
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Old 10-13-18, 07:49 AM
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Not sure if I've used any Resilience - might be best to ask at the paint store.
You do not want the paint to freeze on the wall!! it can crack and peel if it does
 
  #59  
Old 10-13-18, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
Not sure if I've used any Resilience - might be best to ask at the paint store.
You do not want the paint to freeze on the wall!! it can crack and peel if it does
Resilience Mark is supposedly rated to 35 F. Next week we're supposed to have a couple days in the 50s during the day and down to about 40 at night so those might be safe days.

I didn't paint today, but tonight it was about 38 F and cold!

I need to get at least another couple weeks to get this last side done. Hopefully I'll make it!

If I apply it in the 50s during the early to mid day will it be ok after 4 hours drying? Isn't that about what most latex/acrylics need to dry?
 
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Old 10-14-18, 02:33 AM
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If I remember correctly when SWP first came out with the 35 paint they said it needed 48 hrs of above 35 to cure before being subjected to freezing temps. That was yrs ago - the specs may have changed.

I just double checked and it's still 48 hrs - https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPD...ype=PDS&lang=E
.
Do not apply at air or surface temperaturesbelow 35F or when air or surfacetemperatures may drop below 35F within 48hours.
 
 

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