Cabinet prep process for painting
#1
07-25-18, 12:46 PM
Cabinet prep process for painting
Hey all,
So we're planning to paint our kitchen cabinets and are pretty set on using Benjamin Moore Advance in Super White with Stix as the primer. The existing cabinets are just stained and varnished I think, and are also slatted (which makes sanding a bit tricky). We do not have access and are constrained in terms of using a sprayer (especially when Zinsser BIN is recommended), which is preferred but just not viable at our place (especially with two little kids)
I have a few question as to the prep and general process for all this though, more along the lines of cleaning/degreasing/sanding/deglossing. :
1) Should I use TSP or a TSP substitute in addition to a Liquid Sander/Deglosser? Like Klean Strip TSP Substitute and Klean Strip Easy Liquid Sander & Deglosser? Is there an alternative to using all this that will afford me any easier of a cleanup as well as low fumes (like Simple Green, etc)? I've heard a lot of varying opinions on this - some saying just to sand things down and then applying the Stix right over it, whereas others suggesting going full length and using Varnish & Stain remover (and if so, using an oil-based primer to prime at that point)
2) For the brushes, I'm planning to get a couple 2.5" and a 2" Wooster soft-tip sash and Shortcut Sash brushes (all nylon-polyester) in addition to Jumbo-Koter Super Twist (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001N9YGC) rollers. I'm assuming all these brushes and rollers can be used and reused (assuming a thorough rinse) when applying primer AND paint? So I can use the brushes and rollers to apply the primer coats. Then rinse and apply paint with the same brushes/rollers?
3) I have an old 3" roller handle/frame. Will I be able to just use that with one of the Jumbo-Koters? Or should I really just buy the Jumbo-Koter roller frame?
So we're planning to paint our kitchen cabinets and are pretty set on using Benjamin Moore Advance in Super White with Stix as the primer. The existing cabinets are just stained and varnished I think, and are also slatted (which makes sanding a bit tricky). We do not have access and are constrained in terms of using a sprayer (especially when Zinsser BIN is recommended), which is preferred but just not viable at our place (especially with two little kids)
I have a few question as to the prep and general process for all this though, more along the lines of cleaning/degreasing/sanding/deglossing. :
1) Should I use TSP or a TSP substitute in addition to a Liquid Sander/Deglosser? Like Klean Strip TSP Substitute and Klean Strip Easy Liquid Sander & Deglosser? Is there an alternative to using all this that will afford me any easier of a cleanup as well as low fumes (like Simple Green, etc)? I've heard a lot of varying opinions on this - some saying just to sand things down and then applying the Stix right over it, whereas others suggesting going full length and using Varnish & Stain remover (and if so, using an oil-based primer to prime at that point)
2) For the brushes, I'm planning to get a couple 2.5" and a 2" Wooster soft-tip sash and Shortcut Sash brushes (all nylon-polyester) in addition to Jumbo-Koter Super Twist (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001N9YGC) rollers. I'm assuming all these brushes and rollers can be used and reused (assuming a thorough rinse) when applying primer AND paint? So I can use the brushes and rollers to apply the primer coats. Then rinse and apply paint with the same brushes/rollers?
3) I have an old 3" roller handle/frame. Will I be able to just use that with one of the Jumbo-Koters? Or should I really just buy the Jumbo-Koter roller frame?
#2
07-25-18, 01:21 PM
While TSP is a great detergent it must be rinsed well or it can present adhesion issues. I'm not very familar with the TSP substitute. I only use TSP on the exterior where I can rinse with a pressure washer or garden hose. I normally use a liquid deglosser after sanding to both clean up the sanding dust and soften the existing finish.
Brushes and rollers can be reused until they are worn out provided they are cleaned and stored properly.
As long as the roller frame and cover is the same size they are interchangeable between brands.
here are some instructions for painting cabinets
The Ideal Cabinet Repaint
Brushes and rollers can be reused until they are worn out provided they are cleaned and stored properly.
As long as the roller frame and cover is the same size they are interchangeable between brands.
here are some instructions for painting cabinets
The Ideal Cabinet Repaint
#3
07-25-18, 03:03 PM
BTW: If I do decide to go with Zinsser BIN, is it best to use cheap disposable brushes and rollers to apply it? This is because I read that since BIN is shellac it requires denatured alcohol or ammonia for the cleanup, which seems like a pain to clean-up. For primer, does the brush and roller quality really matter at all given that you're sanding it down and the painting over it anyway?
#5
07-26-18, 03:33 AM
I've never used XIM UMA but XIM does have good products and since it's a waterborne primer it might do ok.
I've also never used the synthetic BIN but have used a lot of the regular shellac based BIN.
Normally I use an old worn brush to apply pigmented shellacs like BIN and toss it when I'm done but depending on what it needs to be applied to I have used a good brush and cleaned it up when I was done. I detest cheap brushes as it's hard to get a good job with them.
I've also never used the synthetic BIN but have used a lot of the regular shellac based BIN.
Normally I use an old worn brush to apply pigmented shellacs like BIN and toss it when I'm done but depending on what it needs to be applied to I have used a good brush and cleaned it up when I was done. I detest cheap brushes as it's hard to get a good job with them.
