Oil vs Alkyd paint for cabinets

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Old 08-28-18, 01:39 PM
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Oil vs Alkyd paint for cabinets

I have brand new unfinished cabinet doors to replace my old doors. The new ones are paint grade pine with MDF inserts (shaker style). I have a Graco x5 and have been practicing using it on test doors already and will spray the doors outside in a home-made paint tent. I plan to brush the cabinet frame faces as spraying indoors will be unwieldy and messy.

Now I need to decide what paint to use. I have experimented with Sherman Williams ProClassic oil paint Semi-Gloss finish with a 313 FF tip, thinned with paint thinner (3 to 1) with Penetrol added, and it looks great. But the cleanup was a nightmare, and I am nervous to use that paint indoors when I brush/roller the cabinet faces (only faces and sides, not inside the boxes themselves).

I have heard water-based Alkyd paints are as good, like Benjamin Moore Advanced or even the Sherman Williams Alkyd pro classic. Will that spray as well as the thinned out oil? Is there an oil based BM Advanced to consider?
Also I heard I should use shellac primer like BIN. Should 1 coat be enough for the doors and the boxes inside? Should I sand after primer and in-between coats? And with me 3 to 1 thinning, should I do more than 2 coats of finish paint?
Would there be a difference in color over time with oil paint? Will there be a difference if I did oil on the doors and brushed on alkyd inside on the faces?
Lastly, if I use Alkyd paint, should I use Floetrol (the water based equivalent of Penetrol) and or thin it for spraying with a 313 FF tip?
 
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Old 08-28-18, 01:53 PM
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Oil base whites are bad to yellow over time! The cheaper grades can start to yellow in a manner of months, the better grades might take a year or two.

I've gotten good results spraying doors with ProClassic waterborne [unthinned] using a Titan 660. Generally oil base lays down better than latex or waterborne but a good spray job can be had with any of them provided the right equipment is used along with the right technique. I rarely ever spray inside an occupied home! Too much work to contain ALL the overspray. A decent job can be had with a brush/roller. While I rarely thin paint for airless spraying, I might thin it a tad if needed to make brushed paint flow better.

Most any enamel undercoater is fine for unfinished doors/wood. Oil base is best but often latex undercoater will do a good job. BIN is needed when the doors already have a finish on that might not be compatible with your finish paint.
 
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Old 08-28-18, 04:33 PM
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Will Benjamin Moore Advance Alkyd paint yellow over time as well? I'd love to avoid using oil based products through my sprayer to avoid the mess with paint thinner and denatured alcohol for the BIN cleanup. But if BM Advanced will yellow too, then may as well go with oil, right? I don't think latex will hold up in the kitchen on the cabinets, plus it lays down so thick I won't avoid orange peel I'm sure (I've tested that out, tho haven't tried Floetrol.

Would I use Floetrol with BM Advanced Alkyd paints or Penetrol or none at all?
 
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Old 08-29-18, 03:00 AM
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I've not used the BM Advanced. I'm partial to SWP's ProClassic waterborne enamel. I painted some cabinets for one of the kids about a dozen yrs ago and it still looks decent - shows signs of wear but no chipping.
 
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