bubbles on front door after painting
#1
07-23-20, 08:39 AM
bubbles on front door after painting
I stripped the paint from the door withe chemicals and sanding and cleaning (wiping it out),I put the oil base BIN primer,and all surface enamel satin (black).I sprayed it withe homeright sprayer .I put 3 coats of paint on it.Living in georgia and being so hot,it makes it hard.I painted out side and it bubbled,I painted inside and set the door up (letting dry for 3 days) the bulles show s up again.I have done this 2 or 3 times and bubbles come back and only on the front side.
Top Answer
07-23-20, 03:54 PM
Group Moderator
If it's not a metal door I would not use that, no. Instead I would use a similar product... Rustoleum Bonding Primer (grey). It bonds to almost any surface and can be top coated quickly. It does say that it has a 200F limit, so I dont know how hot that black door gets in the sun, but that could be an issue if it is getting that hot.
A similar product is Zinnser Extreme adhesion primer, or Sherwin William's Bonding Primer.
I also worry that your bubbles are going to keep spreading or that more will appear unless you strip that exterior finish and start over. Even if no more bubbles appear, I imagine that you will be able to see the existing bubbled areas through your topcoat. They will look like rings through your topcoat.
A similar product is Zinnser Extreme adhesion primer, or Sherwin William's Bonding Primer.
I also worry that your bubbles are going to keep spreading or that more will appear unless you strip that exterior finish and start over. Even if no more bubbles appear, I imagine that you will be able to see the existing bubbled areas through your topcoat. They will look like rings through your topcoat.
#2
07-23-20, 09:14 AM
Group Moderator
You should be able to pull the paint away and figure out if the primer held or if it's the latex coming off the primer. Let us know what you find.
scrambledlife
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scrambledlife
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#6
07-23-20, 10:16 AM
Member
You got two things to consider, any time you mix latex and oil based materials you have the opportunity for checking (interaction), and heat, hot conditions, hot substrates, which one, I dont know!!
scrambledlife
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#7
07-23-20, 10:25 AM
The oil base is the primer and I put that on both sides (the rest I did not understand) This is happening the certain spots and only upfront,,
#8
07-23-20, 11:24 AM
There shouldn't be any issues applying latex paint over dry BIN, it gets done successfully all the time. Bubbling like that usually indicates a contaminant that isn't allowing the paint to adhere. How soon after the paint is applied do the bubbles appear?
scrambledlife
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#9
07-23-20, 01:02 PM
Group Moderator
When it says "spot exterior" that means it should not be used on large exterior areas. So you should have picked a different primer.
I probably would have used Rustoleum Rusty metal primer... The red color is a good base for dark colors. After priming you should always scuff sand the primer to help with adhesion... Then dust it off. Especially important when spraying.
And in high humidity and heat you need more cure time between coats. You don't recoat when it's just dry to the touch. Whatever the can says the recoat time is you can probably double or triple it in high humidity.
I probably would have used Rustoleum Rusty metal primer... The red color is a good base for dark colors. After priming you should always scuff sand the primer to help with adhesion... Then dust it off. Especially important when spraying.
And in high humidity and heat you need more cure time between coats. You don't recoat when it's just dry to the touch. Whatever the can says the recoat time is you can probably double or triple it in high humidity.
scrambledlife
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#10
07-23-20, 01:55 PM
As soon as I put up the door(after completely dried) and hit gets to it.I did paint it inside 75 rather than over 95 outside.After priming and sanding a little and cleaning,it should be all right?
#11
07-23-20, 01:57 PM
If the bubble occur after the door is dry and then exposed to the sun it may mean that the paint was applied too thick and didn't dry properly.
scrambledlife
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#12
07-23-20, 02:03 PM
I did the sanding and cleaning with paint brush and rags.I should give more times in between.I am scraping the bubbles and after sanding and cleaning, I will go ahead with prime and paint.Like I told marksr I was painting inside of the house to be cool and I hope that's not the issue.The primer I saw at home depot is model # 7769502 rusty flat,right?
Last edited by scrambledlife; 07-23-20 at 02:36 PM.
#13
07-23-20, 02:17 PM
Group Moderator
With white primer and black paint I bet the first coat was way too heavy. Your brain thinks the first coat needs to completely cover the white.
Marksr, what are your thoughts on the primer being wrong for an exterior application. They have to have a reason for saying it's a spot primer. I don't think it's a coincidence that the paint isn't sticking to this primer in the sun... Especially black which is going to get VERY hot in the sun.
Marksr, what are your thoughts on the primer being wrong for an exterior application. They have to have a reason for saying it's a spot primer. I don't think it's a coincidence that the paint isn't sticking to this primer in the sun... Especially black which is going to get VERY hot in the sun.
scrambledlife
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#14
07-23-20, 02:19 PM
Marksr,Did you mean I put to many layers with less time to dry or I did not thin out the paint?
And I should give more time to dry in between.
And I should give more time to dry in between.
#15
07-23-20, 02:23 PM
The primer looks like is for spots cover only not for all the project and the paint comes off easy not sticking good to the primer.
Last edited by scrambledlife; 07-23-20 at 02:43 PM.
#16
07-23-20, 03:07 PM
Group Moderator
The primer I saw at home depot is model # 7769502 rusty flat,right?
scrambledlife
voted this post useful.
#18
07-23-20, 03:54 PM
Group Moderator
If it's not a metal door I would not use that, no. Instead I would use a similar product... Rustoleum Bonding Primer (grey). It bonds to almost any surface and can be top coated quickly. It does say that it has a 200F limit, so I dont know how hot that black door gets in the sun, but that could be an issue if it is getting that hot.
A similar product is Zinnser Extreme adhesion primer, or Sherwin William's Bonding Primer.
I also worry that your bubbles are going to keep spreading or that more will appear unless you strip that exterior finish and start over. Even if no more bubbles appear, I imagine that you will be able to see the existing bubbled areas through your topcoat. They will look like rings through your topcoat.
A similar product is Zinnser Extreme adhesion primer, or Sherwin William's Bonding Primer.
I also worry that your bubbles are going to keep spreading or that more will appear unless you strip that exterior finish and start over. Even if no more bubbles appear, I imagine that you will be able to see the existing bubbled areas through your topcoat. They will look like rings through your topcoat.
Norm201,
scrambledlife
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#19
07-23-20, 04:39 PM
Member
Yes it seems to me the wrong type of primer was used.
FWIW...I talked to reps for Larson doors and even though this is not a storm door nor is it metal, doors are usually preped with special paint at the factory. But I have painted doors, both metal and wood with typical Rustolium and never saw this problem. But I never had to prime them first.
FWIW...I talked to reps for Larson doors and even though this is not a storm door nor is it metal, doors are usually preped with special paint at the factory. But I have painted doors, both metal and wood with typical Rustolium and never saw this problem. But I never had to prime them first.
scrambledlife
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#20
07-23-20, 04:47 PM
Strip it with chemical(like Klean-stripper) and prime and paint it?
You are 100% right with the little fish eyes a few places like it shows on picture.
Could you give that model # of the Rustoleum Bonding Primer (grey),ty?
You are 100% right with the little fish eyes a few places like it shows on picture.
Could you give that model # of the Rustoleum Bonding Primer (grey),ty?
Last edited by scrambledlife; 07-23-20 at 05:07 PM.
scrambledlife
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#22
07-23-20, 09:28 PM
There is no where available this primer unless I buy it from menards on line.I thank you for posting the number.
#23
07-23-20, 09:34 PM
Group Moderator
Yeah, we have Menards around here.
https://www.hardwareworld.com/prnh8e...gaAo8KEALw_wcB
The white version is 330494.
Also in a spray can. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-...fl-oz/50376756
Here's a door I finished painting earlier this week.
https://www.hardwareworld.com/prnh8e...gaAo8KEALw_wcB
The white version is 330494.
Also in a spray can. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-...fl-oz/50376756
Here's a door I finished painting earlier this week.
scrambledlife
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#25
07-23-20, 10:10 PM
Group Moderator
I wouldnt prime an entire door with a spray can but if you are trying to just touch up spots that you are repairing it would be ok.
scrambledlife
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#27
07-24-20, 02:50 AM
I don't know that I've ever primed an entire door with pigmented shellac. The only times I've used it on the exterior was to spot prime stubborn knots that want to bleed thru the finish paint.
I know the door was painted inside but I was thinking maybe the paint while dry on the surface wasn't dried all the way thru and then heated up when set out in the sun.
I know the door was painted inside but I was thinking maybe the paint while dry on the surface wasn't dried all the way thru and then heated up when set out in the sun.
scrambledlife
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#28
07-24-20, 10:17 AM
You are 100% right about drying time and put in the sun early and I did not give enough time between the paint 1,2,3.Could you tell me about paint being thick(did you mean I need to thin out the paint?),ty.
I am stripping the paint from around doors that bubbles were popping up.I left the mid section alone.I post a picture when I am finished stripping ,you guys can tell me I have done right.
Can I paint the stripped section without priming(I thought I just ask)?
Would it be all right to paint it in the garage?
I am stripping the paint from around doors that bubbles were popping up.I left the mid section alone.I post a picture when I am finished stripping ,you guys can tell me I have done right.
Can I paint the stripped section without priming(I thought I just ask)?
Would it be all right to paint it in the garage?
Last edited by scrambledlife; 07-24-20 at 10:42 AM.
#29
07-24-20, 11:33 AM
I'm thinking you sprayed too many or too thick of a coat of the black paint and while it was dry to the touch, the underlying paint was still tacky. Not sure why that would have made the blisters but other than a contaminate that's all I can think of.
If you strip it down to bare wood it's best to use a primer. No problems with painting it in the garage.
If you strip it down to bare wood it's best to use a primer. No problems with painting it in the garage.
scrambledlife
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#30
07-24-20, 03:46 PM
When I was stripping,i took off a thick layer and still was another layer of paint and prime there.I stripped those to to a bare wood and cleaned it as you see on the picture.With all the section I have can I still use the spray primer ?
I have the kilz3,BIN and the spray in gray(XSleeper suggested)
I have the kilz3,BIN and the spray in gray(XSleeper suggested)
#31
07-25-20, 02:29 AM
Member
Probably should have been mentioned earlier, painting a lighter color may help, cant even imagine how hot a black door must get especially if it gets any sun on it!
scrambledlife
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#32
07-25-20, 03:07 AM
scrambledlife
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#33
07-25-20, 05:34 AM
I did cleaned good but I will give a good cleaning again before spaying.I post pictures as I go.YOU can let me know I am doing it right.Thanks again.
#34
07-25-20, 05:35 PM
Member
Looks like incompatible primer/topcoat interaction to me. I would use a primer and topcoat of the same type and by the same manufacturer which should almost always ensure they are compatible.
I’ve seen the same type of thing happen with epoxy paint over lacquer primer. Different paints entirely but they bubbled up just the same because they were incompatible with each other.
I’ve seen the same type of thing happen with epoxy paint over lacquer primer. Different paints entirely but they bubbled up just the same because they were incompatible with each other.
#35
07-28-20, 10:58 AM
Since I did find Rustoleum Bonding Primer (white),I stripped the all front section and washed all the dirt off.I sanded real good(marksr) and used my airgun and large paint brush and sanded again,cleaned it again.Let is dry good and put the prime on it sunday.Monday I gave a lite sand and dust it off good and put the first layer of paint yesterday(monday 6pm).It's been 20 hrs and so far good no bubbles smooth.I will put the second one wednesday and let it dry good.Still learning.
#36
07-30-20, 02:43 PM
I put the 2nd coat on yesterday (wednesday) and thursday afternoon looking good so far.It is raining too much I wait couple more days and see.I post picture when is done.
#37
07-31-20, 02:22 AM
scrambledlife
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#38
07-31-20, 06:44 PM
Thanks a lot. I red a lot and again and again your guys telling about drying time(I was rushing it and putting too much paint to cover up),I left it a lone since is raining here a lot.I just did a little touch up on the back and it should be ready monday.
#39
07-31-20, 06:48 PM
Group Moderator
A lot of finishing problems are the result of impatience / being in a hurry. Glad you're getting it whipped.
scrambledlife
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#40
07-31-20, 08:25 PM
True,learning it hard way.I always remember putting too much paint to cover all the prime(you&marksr were right ,I did).Learning.
