I’m looking to repaint my stained kitchen cabinets. I need advice on how to do this the most economically. I’m looking to use DecoArt for the solid wood cabinet doors and countertop trim because the paint is thick and covers well. I’m uncertain what kind of paint to use for the fake wood laminate. DecoArt paints are pricey, and if I can, I would like to use a different brand of paint for the larger areas. By doing so, it would cut the cost considerably.
There are also inserts in the doors that are a weaved pattern. I was thinking of turning them around to the flat wood backing and paint the flat side. What would be the easiest way to remove the inserts, which are wood glued in place, without damaging them? Thanks.
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Is this fixable? Looks like a greasy spot that went deep.
Hi there - am painting a small bathroom. Caulked all the spots where wall meets wall and where wall meets ceiling. I did not cut out the old stuff. Firstly because I’ve never do. And two,
it really wasn’t that bad that was just some spots ( 25%) that had cracked. Mainly along ceiling. Used DAP Alex Flex a paintable caulk and waited about 12 hours. Painted with Valspar Signature (acrylic latex) and within 2 days of drying…..it started cracking. No one has used the shower and no sudden temp changes.
so I tried again with what looked like a higher quality paintable caulk (DAP Dynaflex Ultra). Again did not cut out old caulk. Waited…painted and same deal.
Am wondering….is there a more profession grade paintable caulk I can try? Does the not removing all old caulk matter? Again, I have never done that and have never had such an issue. Could it be these very common products just don’t play together well?
One other point….this is a second floor bath. So there is a lot of open space (though insulated) above. And it’s cracking more along ceiling; much less along the wall joints. But it’s winter in the Carolinas and so it’s not like it gets that cold that long. Any advice appreciated. Thx