Exterior Paint job done right!


  #1  
Old 03-09-02, 05:38 PM
portland4
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Thumbs up Exterior Paint job done right!

My wife and I are in the beginning phases of remodeling our new 1913 home located in Portland Oregon. We are pulling off the aluminum siding, which is covering wood siding. Here are my questions. What is the best method for getting off paint down to the original wood (there are approx. 5 coats)? Does Porter Cable’s Paint Remover with 36 grit tungsten carbide disk work well or should we plan on using a heat gun? If there may be lead in the old paint what type of respirator is recommended? Once we are down to wood do we need to pressure wash the exterior before priming? What type of primmer should we use? What is the difference of acrylic latex and vinyl acrylic paint? Is one better than the other for longevity in such a wet harsh environment. Is Benjamin Moore Paint better than Behr? We have spayed before and noted the amount of overspray and cost. Will we get a better end result if we paint with brushed? Would the pros use a brush or rollers for 4” wood siding. We don’t mind going the extra mile to make sure it is done the right way. Thanks for any help!
 
  #2  
Old 03-13-02, 02:00 PM
KeithP
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Well Shaggy, here are the answers I can give you, some I cannot...

I'd have a good contractor check for lead-based paints first and if it is so, hire someone to remove and dispose of it properly...pressure washing may be required for sure...I'd use Moore's 100-00 exterior oil primer, a true oil with linseed oil base, then topcoat with Moorguard low-lustre Latex finish coats. Moore's is superior to Behr in my experience and in my opinion. Buy the best latex topcoat (ie...Moorguard/MoorGlo) your budget can afford. Latex takes the humidty and temperature fluctuations better than oils. To be frank, many label-terms (acrylic/vinyl/100 percent acrylic) are marketing-speak. Water-based products are somewhat permeable and thus 'breathe', allowing water vapour to pass through them. Oils breathe very, very little. When a label says (for example) that it is 100 percent acrylic latex, it simply means that the small amount of acrylic resin added to the paint itself, is 100 perecnt pure acrylic, nothing more. Do not think of it as an acrylic sheet of clear plastic, strong, almost bullet-proof. Know what I mean? Professionals would likely brush the siding, underneath first, the then vertical surfaces. Spraying can be an option, but as you've found, the neighbours, or your plants may not appreciate the overspray and share your enthusiasm man. Hope some of this helps and that you get a few more posts when this is bumped to the top of the board again. Regards. Keith
 
 

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