Painting over wallpaper


  #1  
Old 03-22-02, 08:17 PM
Cathy B
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Question Painting over wallpaper

I just pulled off the top layer of some paper wallpaper in my dining room. The underlayer (or whatever it's called....it feels like a well-worn paper bag) is in excellent condition. There are very few holes/tears/breaks in the paper. Is it okay to paint over it?
I'm thinking that it would be a TON less work to do minor patching and then prime it than it would be to strip it, repair the walls after stripping, and then prime. Thanks in advance!
Cathy
 
  #2  
Old 03-23-02, 02:53 PM
KeithP
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If only the pattern of the wallpaper came off, sounds like the backing of the wallpaper to me, and if so, it should be removed. Anything applied to just that will likely bubble and ruin your efforts. Then we'll tackle what's beneath that layer. If it's primed drywall, then after a good cleaning to ensure all adhesive residue is gone, you may fill, spot prime and paint. If plaster, prime with oil, then fill, spot prime and paint. I'll wait for your answer Cathy before moving ahead.
 
  #3  
Old 03-23-02, 04:44 PM
Cathy B
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Thanks for your reply, Keith!
I tested a spot with hot water to see how easy it would be to remove the backing, and it came off fairly easily. There was paint underneath. There is one area above a window where it is strangely smooth. I suspect this may be new drywall. I'll have to do a test up there to see what's underneath that. I looked at your other posts (after I posted this one!) and have come to the conclusion that if I'm going to do this job, I'd better do it right and go after the backing.
I appreciate your help and have bookmarked this website for other projects!
Cathy
 
  #4  
Old 03-23-02, 04:51 PM
KeithP
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Attagirl Cathy!
You're welcome...always willing to help, here or via email...there are a lot of experienced people here...maybe set your preferences to alert you via email when one of your posts has been answered too. One more tip...test the paint beneath for latex/oil. Take a pice of cloth (dark if paint color is light) and place a liberal amount of acetone-based nail polish remover on it, rub a small circle on the old paint for about 20 seconds...if the color is transfered to the cloth, it was latex, if not, it's oil. Then you know where you stand before repainting properly. If oil, let us know please. Keep us posted.
 
  #5  
Old 03-23-02, 04:55 PM
Cathy B
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I'm going to prime the wall with Kilz 2 regardless of what's under there. There is ugly baby pink paint elsewhere in the kitchen and I'm covering it with a light paint. I want the pink GONE.
It doesn't matter what's under the primer, does it?
Thx,
Cathy
 
  #6  
Old 03-23-02, 05:10 PM
KeithP
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If the area above your window proves to be plaster rather than drywall, I'd use an oil-based primer. Reason is that water-based products can cause bubbling in plaster after a topcoat...if drywall, of course, use your Kilz 2 then. Sounds like you're on the right track so far. I'll be watching for an update from you young lady on your progress!
 
  #7  
Old 03-23-02, 05:14 PM
Cathy B
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Hey...I like that 'young lady' stuff! If it were only true.... :-D

I don't think it's plaster, but I'll dig around in an inconspicuous area and see what's there.

I also bought DIF gel for removing the backing. This is in an area with hardwood floors.....I REALLY do not want to steam the paper off or use the DIF water-based treatment and have to deal with a compromised floor. Have you any experience with this product?

Thx,
Cathy
 
  #8  
Old 03-23-02, 05:25 PM
KeithP
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DIF works well, but be sure to protect the floor...DIF also makes a concentrated gel that sticks to the wall and doesn't drip like other products. Let's hope it's drywall and you get moving at a quicker pace. Either way, best bet is to allow all primers a day to set up and dry hard before top coating them...looks as though you may have a happy follow-up story soon to share with us. Have fun with your project...play good music and take a break if needed. Glad to be of assistance.

Keith
 
  #9  
Old 03-23-02, 05:28 PM
Cathy B
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I've worked with the original, water-based DIF before. It's messy. I bought the gel DIF this time. I'm hoping the extra cost will result in a cleaner, quicker project.

I do so appreciate your assistance and interest in my project!

Cathy
 
  #10  
Old 03-23-02, 05:30 PM
KeithP
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You'll be just fine...and you're most welcome.
 
  #11  
Old 03-23-02, 08:41 PM
Cathy B
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Status!
DIF Gel is a DREAM come true! I have my 7 year old daughter scraping this wallpaper off alongside me.....it's that easy!

I under the paper is either spackled spots or paint. No drywall or
plaster.

Happy!

Cathy
 
  #12  
Old 03-24-02, 12:59 AM
KeithP
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  #13  
Old 03-29-02, 05:14 PM
Cathy B
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YEO Keith! Project's going well. Yahoo!!!

Question: what's the best tape to use ? Masking or blue?
I used masking tape on our hardwood floor and it brought up a bit of the finish. Not a big deal (will have it refinished anyway) but I don't want to make bigger problems. Is blue better?

Thanks,
Cathy
 
  #14  
Old 03-29-02, 05:21 PM
KeithP
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Glad to hear you're pleased with your progress...whatever the 'flavour' the tape, as long as it's easy release, or low tack, it won't damage what you place it on. Masking tape is ok for the pros but for me and you, go for the gentler stuff.
 
  #15  
Old 03-29-02, 08:05 PM
Cathy B
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Low tack, huh? Never heard of it. But I'll get it.

I've tsp'd the walls and now have to do some minor patching. It's interesting to see what is under the wallpaper....it's like reading a biography of the house! And of course I'm adding my own chapter as I go along.....

Thx again!
Cathy
 
  #16  
Old 03-30-02, 02:44 AM
KeithP
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Low adhesive (tack) , compared to masking tape. Well maybe ya oughta snap a few pics or a video diary to show your grandkids one day...you can call it "This Old House of Mine" and write some lyrics to go with Rod Stewart's song "This old heart of mine"...

Now, those minor repars should be spot primed afterwards so the paint doesn't soak into the spackle and appear darker than the surrounding wall. Then prime the entire area with your Kilz2.
Then two coats of your paint and voila!
 
  #17  
Old 03-30-02, 09:56 AM
Cathy B
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I always prime. I don't have time to go back and pull out the cans of paint and repatch!!!

Thx again,
Cathy
 
  #18  
Old 03-30-02, 02:21 PM
KeithP
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We expect a full report on the final outcome Cathy!
 
  #19  
Old 03-30-02, 05:00 PM
Cathy B
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I'm ahead of schedule! However, I'm concerned about the paint adhering to the blue tape. This will need to be on for at least two days. What's the best way to remove dried paint from the tape?

Thankful for your help,
Cathy
 
  #20  
Old 03-30-02, 05:45 PM
KeithP
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Why the concern over paint on the masking tape Cathy? And why would it be on the floor several days? You mentioned that the floors were to be refinished anyway. When you're finished painting the walls and trim, remove the tape from the floor.
 
  #21  
Old 03-30-02, 09:23 PM
Cathy B
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Sorry.....I didn't clarify.....I had to tape the cabinets. I used the blue tape with the protective paper to cover the edges of the cabinets.

CB
 
  #22  
Old 03-31-02, 02:57 AM
KeithP
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All you need to do is carefully peel back the tape, at an oblique angle...about 30-45 degrees up from the surface and pull back towards you. Discard the tape and drape and you're done.
 
  #23  
Old 04-01-02, 09:50 PM
Cathy B
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WHOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
Kitchen is 99% COMPLETE!
Finished both final coats today. I just have to take off the tape, replace switches and plugs, and do a tiny amount of trim.
This entire room has been transformed!!!

Thank you for allllllllll your encouragement and assistance, Keith!

And I've got 4 days of Easter vacation left to play with my kids!

Happily through another project,
Cathy
 
  #24  
Old 04-02-02, 01:05 AM
KeithP
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You're welcome.
 
  #25  
Old 04-02-02, 08:07 AM
Cathy B
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Minor thing: how do I remove paint from finished wood?
Apparently I didn' t press hard enough on the tape and some paint seeped through onto the cabinets.

Cathy
 
  #26  
Old 04-02-02, 01:13 PM
KeithP
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The non-chemical way first. Use a 3-M pad so as not to scratch the varnish...try hot water and soap first...even a gentle scrape with a razor blade if the paint is drops rather than a smear...there is a product called 'Goof Off' that disolves latex paint but you must be careful as it could take some of the finish away from the wood too. Give the gentle way a try first Cathy.
 
 

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