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caulking baseboards???


pdx2mmh's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 48

01-04-06, 12:05 PM   #1  
caulking baseboards???

Now that I have marked all my studs to make sure I have a tight fit, cut my angles, and I mean angles sometimes 45' does not nmean 45'. I guess the builders didn't know what a square room is. Enough of my complaining. I am putting up 31/2 baseboards and I am sure there will be some micro gaps where the board meets up with the wall. I have a friend that caulked the top of the baseboards (he must have had some larger gaps) which looks ok, but it seems to me that it would make it difficult in the long run when you need to repaint. I want the room to look perfect, so should I really worry about a small gap here and there. The texture on the wall is not that thick, and that is where I believe it will show. maybe it's personal preferance?? Thanks for the input. Mike

 
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chandler's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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01-04-06, 02:39 PM   #2  
Mike: you want perfection in an imperfect situation. No room is ever square, believe me. So don't cut 45 degree angles for inside corners. Run the molding flush on one end to the wall. Take the next wall's first piece, and cut your inside 45 degree, but cut out all the wood in the angle with a coping saw. After a little practice, you will see how easy it is, and you can rotate this thing to quite a few offset degrees, making up for the framers.
Caulk the tops of the baseboard, and follow your caulking with a wet sponge, and allow the sponge to take all the caulking off it will. You will be left with a micro amount of caulking, and only where it is needed. Cut the caulk tube with as small an angle hole as possible, to eliminate waste. A good fit won't need much caulk.

 
marksr's Avatar
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01-04-06, 06:25 PM   #3  
I agree with chandler, use caulking. Painted trim never looks finished unless it is caulked. I like tooling out the caulk with a wet [damp] sponge but a wet rag will also work.


retired painter/contractor avid DIYer

 
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