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Adding crown molding as a retrofit in bathroom

Adding crown molding as a retrofit in bathroom


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Old 10-17-06, 11:30 AM
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Adding crown molding as a retrofit in bathroom

Don't know how hard it is to add crown molding to an existing finished bathroom. Walls have a couple of changes in directions because the room is not a simple rectangle. On one side there is a separator between the shower and a garden tub, and another separator from the tub to the toilet room (loo?), and on the other side after the sink there is another separator where the towel closet is. What do I do about the popcorn ceiling? How do I attach the molding? At the Home improvement center where they keep the crown molding they sell boxes of white nails which are only about 1-1/4 inch long. How do I get the crown molding to attach to the ceiling?
 
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Old 10-17-06, 01:48 PM
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Though possible of course. I can't imagine nailing up crown without a gun. If you have to you will want something longer then 1 1/4" I would get 10P finish nials. Predrill and set the nails at the right angle on the ground, then hold the piece in place and drive them. They sell preformed inside corners at the big box stores. I would recommend these for the beginner, otherwise you will need a mitre saw and a bit of knowledge.
 
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Old 10-17-06, 04:42 PM
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If you've never worked with crown, I wouldn't suggest you start with such a complicated sounding room. You might have better luck if you went with a large cove moulding.

You would want to scrape the popcorn down along the edge of the ceiling where the moulding will be sitting. An appropriate sized block wrapped in 80 grit sandpaper would do the trick- all you have to do is run it along the wall and the sandpaper along the ceiling will sand off the popcorn. Be careful not to knock off the popcorn that will show around the moulding.

The moulding will likely only nail to the wall (wherever there are studs) since you probably won't have much to nail to around the ceiling- except for the joists on half of the walls.
 
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Old 10-18-06, 05:19 AM
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rbogie

Thanks for the info. I also saw instructions online that said if a ceiling joist was parallel to the wall, you can drywall screw a furring strip to the ceiling and nail the crown molding to the furring strip., but of course that only works if the joist is about 1-2 inches away from the wall.

Great idea about the finished corners.

The instructions I pulled up are from Thisoldhouse.com and his recommendation was to make as many pieces as possible have one angled end and the other a butt end. The adjoining piece to the butt end would have to be cut with a coping saw. Of course what isn't mentioned was how to trace the contour of the one piece, stretched at an angle to the end of the other piece. I think you would have to use one of those metal contour copying gadgets. (They're pretty inexpensive, about $7).
 
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Old 10-18-06, 06:05 AM
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Coping is fairly simple - after cutting the wood on a 45` you just follow the edge of the piece. The difficult part [with crown mould] is getting the 45` cut right. It has to be angled on the mitre saw [like it goes on the wall] but it gets cut in the upside down position.

That's why buildpro suggested the preformed corner pieces.
 
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Old 10-18-06, 07:12 AM
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As XSleeper suggests take the popcorn off the ceiling. I would take it all off. I have it in my bathrooms for the most part, the other part is falling off due to humidity. Spray it down and use a wide scraper and remove it all, refinish the ceiling and paint it with a good paint (I prefer semi gloss, but Marksr is the paint pro). If you start your crown career in a bathroom, you will definitely need to go to church on the following Sunday, as it will test your sanity.
If you do, use the premade inside corners and outside corners. That way you will only have straight cuts to make. And rent a gun.
 
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Old 10-18-06, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by chandler
take the popcorn off the ceiling. I would take it all off

Good point!
A bath room is a bad place to have a popcorn ceiling. With the moisture from a shower sooner or later the texture will fail - even with good ventilation. Latex enamel is the preffered coating for baths - any sheen will do.
 
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Old 10-19-06, 06:12 AM
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Crown

If your house has typical framing, there is a double top plate along the top of the walls. (2 2x4's one on top of the other). Subtracting 1/2 inch for the ceiling drywall, you would have 2 1/2 inches of framing, plus of course the studs at certain intervals. Good luck with your project.
 
 

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