drywall mess
#1
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drywall mess
After much thought, we decided to remove our old paneling. Yes, the drywall is a mess. the paneling was glued and nailed. I thought we could sand off the glue, but there are some places that it took off the top layer of drywall. The drywall doesn't have mud and tape on the seams, either.
What are we going to do now??? Keep in mind that we are NOT professionals, just do it yourselfers...learn as we go.
What are we going to do now??? Keep in mind that we are NOT professionals, just do it yourselfers...learn as we go.
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What I would do
At this point, I would hire a drywall person to finish off the seams with mud and tape and patch the holes. I say this because if you want the walls to look great a pro would be able to make that happen.
If you're in a money pinch and really cannot afford a pro, then you could patch and tape the wall yourself and then wallpaper the wall or put a textured paper on the wall that can be painted once dry.
I offer this idea because your wall might look very uneven once you mud and tape it yourself and wall paper can hide a world of sins. You can buy the textured paper I wrote about at Lowes or many online wallpaper stores.
You could also do a nice wainscoat paneling on the lower half of the wall and only wallpaper the top half. However, that would add to your expenses and might require more skill than you have right now.
If you're in a money pinch and really cannot afford a pro, then you could patch and tape the wall yourself and then wallpaper the wall or put a textured paper on the wall that can be painted once dry.
I offer this idea because your wall might look very uneven once you mud and tape it yourself and wall paper can hide a world of sins. You can buy the textured paper I wrote about at Lowes or many online wallpaper stores.
You could also do a nice wainscoat paneling on the lower half of the wall and only wallpaper the top half. However, that would add to your expenses and might require more skill than you have right now.
#3
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Anywhere the paper face of the drywall is missing, needs to be coated with an oil base primer! This wil preventthe water in the joint compound or latex paint/primer from bubbling up the surounding paper
Were you able to remove all the paneling adhesive?
Finishing drywall isn't overely complicated. As long as you pay attention to detail, the biggest difference between a pro and a diyer is speed. Baically, you apply a coat of joint compound to all the joints, embed drywall tape in the mud, using a broad knife to set the tape and "rake" off any excess j/c. Apply 2 more coats when dry, sand and touch up as needed.
Paints with a sheen tend to highlight any drywall finishing defects - flat paint will minimize them.
Were you able to remove all the paneling adhesive?
Finishing drywall isn't overely complicated. As long as you pay attention to detail, the biggest difference between a pro and a diyer is speed. Baically, you apply a coat of joint compound to all the joints, embed drywall tape in the mud, using a broad knife to set the tape and "rake" off any excess j/c. Apply 2 more coats when dry, sand and touch up as needed.
Paints with a sheen tend to highlight any drywall finishing defects - flat paint will minimize them.
#4
I'd re-drywall, then. I have seen that mess you are talking about, and it may be overwhelming to fix without bubbling paper reoccuring, at least here and there. And you may have scores of paper tears and gouges. Since someone must have known they were covering the wall and did not bother to tape the edges, I'd just do it all over again with new. Then you can have fun learning how to sheetrock mud. It really is fun, if you do not have to do a huge amount of it. You will have something to tell your friends, too.
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drywall
Well, I just found these replies to my questions. We are going to try to repair one wall and see how it goes. We have already taped and mudded with one coat. actually, the drywall doesn't seem to be too bad. I do have a few spots, like around doors, where we will have to put in some new pieces of drywall. We sanded down the glue that was left and tore back all the loose paper, then sanded with a palm sander to smooth it out. There are no places where the chalk shows, except where I mentioned around the doors. Is the chalk the same as gypsum??
We are thinking of rolling on a thinner mixture of "mud" with a texturizing roller. Then priming and painting. What do you think??
We are thinking of rolling on a thinner mixture of "mud" with a texturizing roller. Then priming and painting. What do you think??
#6
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Anywhere the paper face of the drywall is gone needs a solvent based primer. These will be your chalk like areas and where you tore back the paper. The primer needs to be applied on these areas before any mud is applied.
Texture is a good way to hide imperfections in less than perfect walls.
Texture is a good way to hide imperfections in less than perfect walls.
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drywall mess
O.K. So, if I am going to texturize the walls, do I really need to skim coat first? Isn't that just kind of repeating myself?
Why can't I roll on the thinned out mud and kill 2 birds with one stone, so to speak? the sponge roller would leave a texture look on the walls.
Why can't I roll on the thinned out mud and kill 2 birds with one stone, so to speak? the sponge roller would leave a texture look on the walls.
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drywall mess
O.K. point taken...the walls are kinda messed up. so, if I do the skim coat, let it dry, then I can texture with the sponge roller? my husband thinks I'm crazy to want to use a roller. but I DO NOT want to spray it on. The mess we have now is bad enuf!!
#10
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IMO spraying texture produces the best results, mostly because it's easier to controll - at least what hits the wall
Texture can be applied with a roller. I've texture whole houses that way but it's been decades. The main thing is applying it evenly. It is very easy to get heavy and thin spots with a roller, even the direction it's rolled can make a difference.
The good thing about joint compound is if you mess up, you can either scrape it off while wet or sand off when dry ..... and start again.
Texture can be applied with a roller. I've texture whole houses that way but it's been decades. The main thing is applying it evenly. It is very easy to get heavy and thin spots with a roller, even the direction it's rolled can make a difference.
The good thing about joint compound is if you mess up, you can either scrape it off while wet or sand off when dry ..... and start again.