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Crown Molding on existing ceranic tile.

Crown Molding on existing ceranic tile.

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  #1  
Old 12-05-09, 02:42 AM
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Crown Molding on existing ceranic tile.

I just started a handyman job and one of the bathrooms has tile all of the way to the ceiling. My client wants me to install crown to hide the gap between the tile and the ceiling. Also the ceiling is not flat or level and the client wasn't interested in taking it down. My thought was to nail the crown on top and use liquid nails on the bottom. I'm concerned that the line made by the seam of the tiles will highlight the flaw in the cieling. Is this an effective way to attach the molding, and what adjustments can I make for out of level? Thanks guys.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-05-09, 04:49 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

It sounds like caulking the gap between the tile and ceiling would be a better option. I'm not sure how well it will work just nailing the crown to the ceiling as there isn't always wood framing where you need to nail..... but I'm just a painter there will be others along later with more suggestions.
 
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Old 12-05-09, 05:46 AM
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You would probably want to glue and screw a wood cleat to the wall and/or ceiling first. Once that cleat is nice and secure, then you will have something solid to tack your crown moulding to. Depending on the size of the crown, this could be a continuous cleat, with an angle ripped on both sides, glued and screwed through the corner to the top plate... or a series of small, lightweight triangles that will give you some framing to nail to every 12 or 16". The triangles work well if you are using something like Powergrab adhesive, since you can press them into place, and let them set up for a day or two. Ideally, you'd install all these blocks along a straight chalk line on the wall which will make your life easier when you go to install the crown.

Generally speaking, crown moulding needs to be installed straight, regardless of what the walls do. Let's say your crown has a 45 degree spring angle. When placed at the proper angle, the bottom edge is supposed to be (for example) 2 1/8" down from the corner, and the top edge is supposed to be (for example) 2" away from the corner. You usually want to pull 2 1/8" down from each corner of the room, snap a line (or at least make a few reference marks along a stringline before taking it down) and install the crown to the line on the wall so that it's perfectly straight. If the tile, wall or ceiling isn't perfectly straight, well, I can't see how that is your fault, and you certainly can't hide every flaw and preexisting condition. That would best be discussed with the homeowner before you even get started.

If and when the ceiling bows up or down, it will effect the straightness of the crown against the ceiling. If you roll the crown up or down, it will make the crown look bowed as compared with the tile.

So the best thing to do is usually to install everything straight. This may mean shimming some areas of the wall or ceiling to prevent the crown from sucking back into a dip in the wall. And if, in the end, there are gaps here and there- allow the painters to work their magic and fill in the gaps with caulk, which will be tooled flat with the crown... just like marksr said. If you are the painter, that will be your job! The caulking will make the edge profile of the crown seem a little wider anyplace the wall or ceiling dips away from the crown, but unless you fixate on that, it's not really a big deal. Having a straight line is more important in my book.
 
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Old 12-05-09, 06:21 AM
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Just to add more fuel to the fire. Good info from both Marksr and XSleeper. Regardless of what you do with the crown, you will wind up with a caulk line either above or below the crown, since you have to run the crown straight. Now, using a less obtrusive crown (2 1/2") may not telegraph the aberrations in the tile lines. Blocking for the crown is best, but creating a caulk line alone, if you can talk your client into it may be best.
 
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