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Removing board attached above door trim to drywall (liquid nails)

Removing board attached above door trim to drywall (liquid nails)

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  #1  
Old 03-06-12, 12:00 PM
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Removing board attached above door trim to drywall (liquid nails)

I used to have a home theatre projector and just got rid of it opting for a installed flat panel. I had a friend help me out on the install since his was done so well, only to realize how his was a really polished turd.

He came up with this "cool" mounting solution, I thought it was anchored with screws, which there are two, but just appeared to be doing nothing, I did look over the edge and noticed goop all over, upon inquiry he said he mainly used liquid nails. Once the board was felted and finished it look really good and almost like the projector was just there.

I'm afraid to pull this stuff off the wall since it could cause crazy damage.

I've read that letting some paint thinner or mineral spirits soak into it can help, I'm repainting the whole room so no big deal on the current stuff getting stripped, just want to go about not destroying drywall right along the top of my back stairwell door and closet door. There is about a 14 inch gap between the doors, and it's a small 36 inch board 2 inches wide and 3/4 thick.

If I need pictures I can provide that also.
 
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  #2  
Old 03-06-12, 12:11 PM
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Welcome to the forums Eric!

If I understand correctly, you have a board that is glued to the drywall and want to remove the board, right?

If so, I'd take a utility knife and score the drywall paper around the perimeter of the board. I'd then rip the board off the drywall. This will leave an area of drywall that needs repair. Prime the exposed gypsum with either Zinnser's Gardz or an oil base primer. Once the primer is dry, cover with a thin coat of joint compound, sand, prime and you are ready for paint.

Paint thinner might work but IMO it will be more trouble than it's worth
 
  #3  
Old 03-06-12, 01:51 PM
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You do NOT want to use paint thinner on drywall, because when you do destroy the drywall (and you probably will) it might make it harder to get your mud and paint to stick if the bare gypsum absorbs much of the paint thinner. Although the oil based paint Mark recommends would probably help seal that in. IMO the paint thinner will not help soften hard adhesive, and would just cause a mess (and odor).

Once construction adhesive sets up it is pretty much as hard as a rock, so just bite the bullet and rip it off. Rather than yanking on it, I'd probably whack it sideways or downward with a hammer. Less likely to rip out a big chunk that way. The construction adhesive your buddy used was probably a good idea since there was probably more weight than 2 screws could handle. Its not unusual to use it in certain situations where its called for.

For any adhesive that remains, chip it off with a stiff putty knife, or if that fails, I've had fairly good success grinding it off with a grinder. Then just treat the roughed up areas w/primer and joint compound as Mark suggested.
 
  #4  
Old 03-07-12, 09:09 AM
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Thanks!
Can't knock it downward, mounted on the frame trim(luckily no glue on it), but sideways is a go.
I have heard a heat gun is good on that stuff also?

the way it sits on the frame trim of the two doors, one screw in a stud would have done it, the projector is very light weight.

Before this I had no experience with adhesives of this nature other then relaminating counter tops.

I think I have a good start, I really appreciate it guys.

This room is going to be a bear to get set up right and wired, but it will really add to the appeal of the house if I can ever sell it lol

ManCave ready should be a selling point...
 
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