Door casing


Old 12-30-15, 07:37 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 52
Door casing

So, i've got a problem.

I put new cabinets in my cramped kitchen, and the way I had to butt them up, made it so that standard door trim won't fit around the door, without having to be notched. I am unable to move the cabinets, as they are wall to wall, and the layout I used was the only way I could do it. Is it acceptable practice at that point to notch the door casing in the areas where the cabinet and countertops interfere with the door casing? I was able to get the counter flush with the end of the cabinet, with no overhang, but there isn't enough room for the door casing to completely fit.

There is also a window above my counter top that interferes with the bottom casing of the window. The countertop eats into some of the lower casing of the window, and that too will have to be trimmed to make it fit. Would do you guys recommend I do to resolve these two issues? I was thinking of using trim that isn't as wide, and using the older style trim style, instead of using mitered corners, however the door and windows frames that are there are older styled and the top area above the top part of the frame is tall.
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Old 12-30-15, 08:15 AM
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Yep, to have to scribe the casing to fit. Its easiest if you install the scribed piece first, (since you will need to test fit it multiple times) then the rest of the casing last. You should still miter the corners.
Old 12-31-15, 12:56 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 52
Okay, so it turns out I was able to find some casing that was just thin enough to fit without scribing. Perfect. Now, the problem is after installing the mitres, they aren't perfect fits, and there's some space between the joints. Can I use wood filler to fill it back in and make it look good? I need to anyways to cover the screw holes, and don't like the gaps showing. I tried everything I could to line the m up, the casings are just out of square from being a really old house.
Old 12-31-15, 01:38 PM
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It's always a good idea to play with some scrap until you get the angle right if you don't have an adjustable gauge to figure the miter angle for you. Caulking does a better job than wood filler or putty .... or does it stain instead of paint?

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