Yep - another T&G question :)

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  #1  
Old 01-30-18, 09:28 AM
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Yep - another T&G question :)

Hi Guys and Gals -

Been a while since I've been on the forum. I've done some searching on my question, and think I have it answered, but want to confirm before I commit to a remodel direction.

So, I'm getting a free-standing wood burning stove installed (corner installation). I've just about completed building the hearth and the plan is to put T&G boards over the existing drywall where the hearth is (observing the minimum clearance of course )

If I run the boards vertically, I need to run some sort of furring strip horizontally that are attached to the studs. Is that correct? I've trying to avoid using glue.

The overall length of the boards is about 8 feet, so is a strip every two feet sufficient to nail the boards to?

Thanks for the help
Joe
 
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  #2  
Old 01-30-18, 09:30 AM
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every 16" would be better but if the T&G is 3/4" thick 24" centers would be ok.
 
  #3  
Old 02-05-18, 11:09 AM
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Thanks MarkSR -

So I'm thinking about investing in an air nailer to put the T&G pieces up. We've settled on Cedar (1/4" thick planks). What type of fastener should I go with? A brad or staple. I don't want to split this stuff. It was expensive.
Joe
 
  #4  
Old 02-05-18, 11:49 AM
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I'd go with a brad nailer. Normally T&G is fastened thru the tongue but sometimes you need to face nail.
 
  #5  
Old 02-12-18, 11:56 AM
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Hi Guys -

Rather then start a new post, I'll just tie into this one, since it is actually related to this project. However, it it would be better in the electrical section, the MODs, please move

So the woodstove was installed last Friday and so far I've managed not to have a chimney fire or burn down the house. In preparation of putting the T&G on the walls behind the stove, I need to take two electrical outlets and move them out from the existing drywall about 1 inch to accomodate the furring strips and the T&G planks.

My thoughts were to cut the drywall around the box to gain access. Pull the existing box off the stud, add a 1" "shim" to the existing stud so I have something to nail the box to. The face of the box needs to be 1" proud of the existing drywall in order to be flush with the T&G installation.

Is there an easier way to do this?

Thanks guys!!
Joe
 
  #6  
Old 02-12-18, 01:54 PM
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Leave the existing boxes in place.. Use a box extender specifically made for this purpose. Google it to see both plastic and metal versions to match your boxes.
 
  #7  
Old 02-13-18, 09:49 AM
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Oh MAN!! That's the greatest thing I've ever seen!! I didn't even know those existed. LOL, I'm learning all sorts of good stuff working on this project!

Thanks!!

Joe
 
  #8  
Old 02-14-18, 08:58 AM
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If the wires are long enough you can even install them without disconnecting the outlets.

1. TURN OFF THE POWER
2. Remove the screws that hold the outlet to the box.
3. Tilt the outlet up or down as you pull it out and place the box extension around it
4. Fasten the box extension to the existing box
5. Push the outlet back and install at the face of the extension.

Some box extensions may need long screws to attach the box and outlet with the same screw.

If the wires are not long enough, you will have to disconnect the outlets and wire pigtails to the existing wires long enough to reconnect the outlet in its new position.
 
  #9  
Old 02-21-18, 07:21 AM
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Hi Guys -

To seal, or not to seal, that is the question which stands before you today ... Should I use a wood sealer on my cedar T&G, something like sikkens? T&G will be in the basement. Co-worker said I need to seal both front and back AND the cuts where the seams will be. Not planning on staining the cedar. We want to keep it natural. Basement isn't very humid.

thanks!!
Joe
 
  #10  
Old 02-21-18, 08:49 AM
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I normally apply several coats of poly or varnish. I like to spray on a coat [on saw horses] sand and spray again. Once installed I'll putty up any nail holes, sand and apply the final coat. You could use a brush instead of spray - just make sure you don't get much build up on the tongue. Unless you have a very damp basement there is no need to seal the backside.
 
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