New Baseboard installation - gap the floor or not?
#1
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New Baseboard installation - gap the floor or not?
Hi Guys -
I'm redoing the master bedroom (paint, replace hollow core doors with 6 panel pine, all new real wood base board and crown).
the floor is currently in carpet and will be replaced at some point, but funding won't allow that to happen right away. The old baseboard appears to have been installed with the bottom edge on the floor and the carpet was brought up to it.
When replacing the baseboard, knowing that the carpet is being replaced at some point, should I put the bottom edge of the baseboard on the floor OR raise it up off the floor some amount so that the pad and carpet gets tucked underneath?
I would imagine on a new build, the carpet gets installed first, then the baseboard so in my mind, the baseboard should be raised off the floor.
Am I approaching this the right way? Thanks for the help!
I'm redoing the master bedroom (paint, replace hollow core doors with 6 panel pine, all new real wood base board and crown).
the floor is currently in carpet and will be replaced at some point, but funding won't allow that to happen right away. The old baseboard appears to have been installed with the bottom edge on the floor and the carpet was brought up to it.
When replacing the baseboard, knowing that the carpet is being replaced at some point, should I put the bottom edge of the baseboard on the floor OR raise it up off the floor some amount so that the pad and carpet gets tucked underneath?
I would imagine on a new build, the carpet gets installed first, then the baseboard so in my mind, the baseboard should be raised off the floor.
Am I approaching this the right way? Thanks for the help!
#2
With carpet, you want the baseboard gapped about 3/8". Your pad stops at the tack strip. The tack strip should be spaced about 1/4" from the baseboard... this space is called the "gully". The carpet can then go over the tack strip and barely tucks into the void under the baseboard, creating a finished edge at the perimeter of the room. Carpet is generally always installed last, after trim.
joecaption
voted this post useful.
#4
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It's best to check with your carpet guy on how much of gap is needed [it can increase/decrease depending on the carpet used] Most every new house I've painted had the carpet installed prior to floor coverings.
#5
Most every new house I've painted had the carpet installed prior to floor coverings.
#6
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Not intending to hijack this thread, however along those lines I will be doing the same as the OP next year. There is a gap between the bottom of the drywall and the floor. To minimize air movement is caulking/foaming the gap acceptable. I'll have the access after removing the original baseboard.
#7
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had the carpet installed prior to floor coverings
I guess that proves that my typing fingers and my brain aren't always connected


#8
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Thanks guys - I don't have a clue what type of carpet/padding we'll be installing down the road, so it sounds like either hold off on the base board and just put up the crown and the door trim or head out to a carpet place and get an idea of what we like and adjust the gap based on that.
#9
Or just gap the baseboard 3/8 like I said earlier. Only reason it would be 1/4" is if you are getting a low pile Berber... Only reason it would be 1/2" is if you are getting a very thick shag. It has nothing to do with the pad (which never overlaps the tack strip... and never goes under the base) unless you aren't using a pad at all. If you are doing a glue down carpet with no pad you would likely want the base 1/4" above the finished floor. (Commercial or concrete)
You also want to gap the door jambs and casing this same amount or else the flooring installer has to cut them all. Then you will likely have to cut the bottoms of the doors too.
You also want to gap the door jambs and casing this same amount or else the flooring installer has to cut them all. Then you will likely have to cut the bottoms of the doors too.
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I guess that makes sense. I haven't looked for carpet in almost 20 years, so I don't know what is considered thick carpet. If 3/8" covers a standard shag, that's good enough for me.
Gives me an opportunity to cut some 3/8" shims with my new table saw
Thanks for help!
Gives me an opportunity to cut some 3/8" shims with my new table saw
