Suggestions on what trim to use? See pics...

I need to install a trim piece to cover the bottom of the drywall wall (borders our basement stairs)... I hope pictures posted are enough info.

 

If I could figure out how to post photos... ???

 

Here we go... see attached. Sorry if the pics are sideways...

 

Id probably use casing or base doesn't really matter, your going to have to do some shimming to get everything level!

 

I'd probably rip a 1x at an angle to match how the drywall bows out and nail it to the bottom of the 1x [?] that is just under the drywall. I'd then install base board flush with the bottom of the new 1x and tall enough to cover the bottom edge of the drywall.

 

What's the distance from that stringer to the outside edge of that wood close to the drywall?
The reason I ask is a circular saw makes a cut 1-1/2" from the blade to the outside edge of the plate.
By making that cut it would be a whole lot easier to just add one long spacer to get the trim to lay flat.
I'd just use a piece of baseboard to cover it up.

 

Are both the horizontal and vertical drywall?
If yes then you may be able to use a corner bead.

It is hard to advise on other options without some dimensions.

 

Marq1 - thanks for responding!

I agree I'm going to have to do some shimming. The drywall at the top of the stairs is about half an inch out further than the drywall the bottom of the stairs (see pic from sharp angle). I'm still wondering how I'm going to make it look right when the drywall wall above and stair stringer below is out of alignment.

I agree that some type of casing/baseboard should do the trick... I don't want it to look too pronounced if I can help it.

 

marksr - thanks for responding!

The 1x you are referring to appears to be a badly ripped down 2x2. I like your suggestion about ripping another board to match the wall contour (fasten it to the 2x2 above and then giving me a good surface to secure a baseboard).

I would have to rip down this board at an angle so that it about 1/2" thicker at the top than the bottom and be about 58" in length. Any suggestion on how to cut this straight (if I use a jig saw, they are hard to cut long straight lines, and I can't see cutting this accurately with a circular saw)...

 

joecaption - thanks for responding!

The distance from the stringer out to the wall edge varies:
- at the bottom, it is about 1 1/4" approx.
- at the top, it is about 1 3/4" approx.

I'm not sure what you mean by "by making that cut it would be a whole lot easier to just add one long spacer to get the trim to lay flat. I just use a piece of baseboard to cover it up."

I'm not seeing what you are saying... visual learner I guess...

 

manden - thanks for responding!

The vertical wall (with the light switch) is 1/2" drywall.

I'm not sure what you are referring to as horizontal (might be confusing because of my sideways photos)...

Some dimensions - the badly cut 2×2 directly below the drywall wall is about 58" long...the gap is about 3/8" wide, and the 2x2 is about 1 1/2" wide... need any other dimensions?

 

How do I rotate my photos? It won't let me edit the post where I uploaded the attachments...

 

A table saw works best but a straight cut can be made with a skillsaw [or jig saw] by clamping a straightedge to the board and using it as a fence.

 

marksr - like this YouTube video describes?
https://youtu.be/QCQvs5WyZ40

 

Yes, that would work. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

I am assuming there is a nailer of some type behind the bottom edge of the dry wall.

I would use a 1X6.
So if you go 1 and 1/2 inches above the drywall edge that leaves you 4 inches.
Less the 1 and 1/2 inches for the 2X2 leaves you 2 and 1/2 inches as a skirt below the 2X2.
Then about every 12 or 16 inches I would attach a 1x4 or 1 and 1/2 X4 shim cut to the measurement of the stringer to the drywall edge.
Then attach the 1X6 to the drywall bottom nailer and these shims.
Since there is still and inch or so of skirt still you will probably not even see the shims.

I would use screws with predrilling and counter sinking to prevent splitting to attach all of this .
Then just do some filling and paint it.

The above is just an idea and there may be reasons why it will not work but seems easier them ripping a continuous shim.

 

thanks for the suggestion manden! I'm wondering if using a 1x6 will be too thick and goddy... plus the nailer you are referring to, there is no lumber under the drywall for about 1.5" so I wouldn't have a secure nailing surface... darn! If I'm visuallizing correctly what you are instructing me to do.