Polyurethane Crown molding
#1
09-22-20, 08:29 AM
Polyurethane Crown molding
Hello, I think I'm going to go with the Poly crown molding. Anyone know if I can just use nails or screws to put it in place or I need to use Polyurethane adhesive as my major attachment method? Thank You!
#2
09-22-20, 09:13 AM
Group Moderator
The primary holding power is the adhesive. You use minimal nails to hold it in position until the glue dries.
#3
09-23-20, 06:29 AM
Member
I installed some a couple years ago with no nails or screws whatsoever. Get a helper, press it into place and hold for a few seconds and it is done. I was surprised at how easy it was. The only issue that I had was hiding seams on some long runs....mostly because i used a gloss enamel and gloss shows everything.
#4
09-23-20, 07:23 AM
Seams
It's never too late to hide those seams, just use some spackle on your finger and you will have seamless gap!
Last edited by ednorton1; 09-23-20 at 07:25 AM. Reason: Spelling
#5
09-23-20, 05:42 PM
Member
Well, that's what I did. The seams aren't terrible, but they are certainly not perfect. You can see them in the right light. I probably should have been more patient, but events prior to the installation dictated the "midnight paint and trim crew" for about a week prior to our move in date.
In hindsight, a better spackle compound would have helped, as well as sanding more with water and a sponge. I was scared to sand too much, and I should have approached it with several thinner coats. The spackle shrank into the seams.
Kind of embarrassed to show you my amateur work, but you can see the seams in the closeup, but rarely from the ground unless the light is reflecting off of it. Here are pics... I have no shame!
Hard to see, but the seam is to the right of the white reflection.
You can see the seam in this one because I worked hard to put the reflection right on the seam.
In hindsight, a better spackle compound would have helped, as well as sanding more with water and a sponge. I was scared to sand too much, and I should have approached it with several thinner coats. The spackle shrank into the seams.
Kind of embarrassed to show you my amateur work, but you can see the seams in the closeup, but rarely from the ground unless the light is reflecting off of it. Here are pics... I have no shame!
Hard to see, but the seam is to the right of the white reflection.
You can see the seam in this one because I worked hard to put the reflection right on the seam.
#7
09-25-20, 09:46 AM
Looks like a nice job. I know its not necessary with this type of molding, but would using a Scarf Joint have made the seam look even better or worse. I wonder if its even an option with this material?
#8
09-25-20, 05:38 PM
Member
Thanks for being gentle, Marksr. Fortunately, you don't see it unless it is pointed out....but of course, I know it's there.
#9
09-25-20, 05:42 PM
Member
It probably would have helped, but I think the big thing is that i was not patient. It was my first and only experience with this stuff. It was actually really easy to install, with the exception of my faux pas. I was actually a little bit afraid of sanding it though...and cutting it....and dinging it.
The other seam came out a lot better, fortunately.
Ahhh, it's good to be humble, right?
The other seam came out a lot better, fortunately.
Ahhh, it's good to be humble, right?
#10
09-25-20, 06:01 PM
Group Moderator
Polyurethane crown works but its the kind of product that is aimed at the do it yourselfer. Cheap and "easy" to install. IMO the polyurethane profiles are probably not an "exact" match, one to the next... there are likely minor differences which makes matching them perfectly difficult.
With wood, you probably have a better chance of having 2 pieces come out of a shaper that are exactly the same size and shape... assuming you aren't mixing up different lots of trim. Plus, wood can more easily be glued together, imperfections filled and the joints sanded flush. Polyurethane is IMO just an inferior product compared to wood. Kind of like comparing DIY vinyl gutters to what is the industry standard... steel or aluminum.
With wood, you probably have a better chance of having 2 pieces come out of a shaper that are exactly the same size and shape... assuming you aren't mixing up different lots of trim. Plus, wood can more easily be glued together, imperfections filled and the joints sanded flush. Polyurethane is IMO just an inferior product compared to wood. Kind of like comparing DIY vinyl gutters to what is the industry standard... steel or aluminum.
ednorton1
voted this post useful.
#11
09-27-20, 08:35 AM
XSleeper, I have not started this project yet, Waiting for it to be delivered by Lowes. Do you think a Scarf Joint is a better way to go, joining the 2 pieces or a straight cut would be just as good. One problem with this material is that it just seems to come supplied with just under 8 ft. lengths. Thanks..
Last edited by ednorton1; 09-27-20 at 08:39 AM. Reason: Adding persons name
#12
09-27-20, 10:07 AM
Group Moderator
With the polyurethane I don't think it matters. I would definitely recut the ends, don't just butt factory end against factory end. The main reason to scarf a joint is to align and glue those two pieces together better. With wood, you would glue and shoot nails through the scarf. You can't really do that with polyurethane... any glue you put between them will make one sit higher than the other. And nails dont have much holding power in that foam.
Yes, the short lengths are the other problem. Its amateur to have a joint on a wall when its not needed... in other words when you can get wood or mdf crown in 16 ft lengths. But with the polyurethane, it is what it is... Good carpenters are trained to have the least amount of joints possible, even if it creates a little more waste. But if you are going to use the polyurethane you just have to deal with those foibles.
Looks like you are doing just fine to me.
Yes, the short lengths are the other problem. Its amateur to have a joint on a wall when its not needed... in other words when you can get wood or mdf crown in 16 ft lengths. But with the polyurethane, it is what it is... Good carpenters are trained to have the least amount of joints possible, even if it creates a little more waste. But if you are going to use the polyurethane you just have to deal with those foibles.
Looks like you are doing just fine to me.
