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Use basic Pine Boards instead of Shiplap?

Use basic Pine Boards instead of Shiplap?


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Old 03-01-21, 05:31 PM
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Use basic Pine Boards instead of Shiplap?

Hi,

I'm ready to install wood boards over my fireplace mantle, up to the ceiling. It will be the width of the stone fireplace (below the mantle) which is about 65" and it then extends up to the ceiling about 72 inches. So not a lot of square footage (about 30 SF). I was thinking I would frame this "square" (again, mantle on bottom side, ceiling on top side) with a vertical board on either side, and then the boards themselves would run horizontally up the wall. I'm thinking the horizontal boards will be 6" in width, (Not sure yet on the two vertical ones...but thinking 3 inches might look good for proportion). I don't want to use T&G because I want clean lines between the boards. But I do want a small gap for effect, say about 1/8" inch.

Question: Rather than use standard Shiplap which I can buy at a box-box store, is there any harm in buying simple pine boards (nominal 6") and simply stacking them and using tile spacers to leave a gap? Basically the only difference I see is that the shiplap boards of course overlap each other, while the regular pine boards would not touch at all. Is there any issue that might arise?

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-01-21, 05:53 PM
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The only issues will be that you need drywall and at least the tape coat behind them (i assume you already do) and that since you will be able to see the sides of every board, you will want to prefinish them so that after they are installed you only have to putty the nail holes and give the faces a final coat.

You didn't indicate stain or paint.

One issue if you paint is that the grain on standard 1x6 likes to raise when it is primed and painted. Like, a LOT. And they are not arrow straight, so your gaps may vary slightly, even if you try to space them like tile. And as you stack them you "might" get an incremental error by the time you get to the top. And like tile, you may get lippage if the 1x6 wants to warp or twist at all. Shiplap joints tend to have a little less lippage since each subsequent board holds down half of the previous one. But even they can warp.
 
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Old 03-01-21, 08:13 PM
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Thank you, Sleeper. These will be painted (probably white) so that it does not appear too rustic.

I recently built the sunroom shown in the first photo below, and I want to avoid the rustic look of the wall, where the T&G has beveled edges. So I want it to look more like the ceiling, which is shiplap. So basically a clean gap with no bevels. But painted. From picture two you can see why I want it clean and more contemporary looking...as otherwise would be too country for this room and probably clash with the fireplace I just did. (Note the wall will be painted Benj Moore Revere Pewter, which is the color of the sunroom; it is also just above the mantle in a couple areas)

I just think I have more flexibility in getting straight, clean boards from the plain (select) pine boards selection at the store (which come in 6' lengths, which is perfect) than sifting through the more limited piles of shiplap at the store, which tend to be of not-so-great quality, and which come in 8' lengths and would yield a lot more waste.

(BTW, from that same job, I learned how to paint over the knots so that they do not seep through eventually...they key is a shellac-based primer...I used Zinser and put down 2-3 coats...so far so good after 18 months!)





 
 

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