I've been searching the interwebs for a situation similar to this, but haven't found one yet, so i thought i'd post on here to see if someone had an idea on how to do this.
We are looking to add crown molding to the ceiling and perimeter of the family room/dining room/kitchen, but i'm stuck on whether or not i can make this intersection work. The room to the right is the kitchen and to the left is the entry way and dining room, which is all open concept to the family room. The kitchen ceiling seems to come down about 1.5-2 inches below the top of the wall to the left. Not sure if that's just poor drywallmanship or not.
Crown on the vaulted ceiling seems to be pretty simple, but i cannot figure out how to bring it down and join the walls at this intersection. I feel like the backside of the ceiling crown would end up hanging below the kitchen ceiling, but maybe it would only do that where it would intersect the horizontal crown on the wall? Maybe the bigger issue is the uneven wall?
About all you could do is separate the two with a big ugly plinth block so that you could keep the living room trim full size and still make a level triangular transition. And I'd suggest you don't put crown in the kitchen in the first place, you already have it on the cabinets. And if you do, use a smaller crown moulding than in the living room.
This is one of those cases where I don't think crown moulding is going to add to the appearance. My eye would be drawn to that big cluster. You also have a can light on the cathedral ceiling that looks like its in the way.
I hadn't thought of a plinth block, probably because i haven't really seen any, but i agree that it would probably be unsightly. I'll have to see what the wife wants to do. Would the plinth block straddle the intersection?
The first photo is an end cap, you would use that if you were going to stop the crown moulding short of a problem area instead of trying to miter them together. But yeah, something like the 2nd photo. IMO they are pretty ugly, and if you need to use one, crown was probably a bad idea in the first place. But as they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Hi all,
Somewhat of a newbie home DIY'er trying to learn the process and enjoy the journey.
I was wondering if someone would be kind enough to help answer a question about a new patio door that we installed. Attached are some pictures.
My question: am I correct in believing that I need to add jamb extensions to fit and cover the exposed areas so that I can install the trim around the door?
Thank you in advance!
Cheers
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*updated with image of original finish showing moulding installation between wall tile and tub
Previous home owner constructed guest bathroom with irregular gap between bottom of shower tile and top of tub. He/she had installed PVC moulding at the interface of the wall tiles+tub to cover up and finish but water got behind and ended up dripping down the side of the tub where the mounding was not present. Removed the moulding and cleaned the area up and found there is a gap between the tile and tub ranging from .25" to just over 1". Interested in improvements compared to moulding (possible removal of last row of tile and installation of taller tile cut to height perhaps. Current tile is 3x6 white subway tile.
I've also read that foam caulk saver tubing could also take up the space and allow silicone to be used but at 1" gap I think I'm pushing my luck there.
It seems that removing the bottom row of tile and cutting new 6x6" subway tile to size would yield the best results, I'm just unfamiliar with tile removal and the risk that could bring.
Link to old PVC crown moulding for reference
[url]https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mouldings-9-16-in-x-1-5-8-in-x-8-ft-PVC-Composite-White-Crown-Moulding-0675508021/100046412[/url]
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