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'66 Mustang ( 302 )


boman's Avatar
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07-27-02, 08:17 PM   #1  
'66 Mustang ( 302 )

Bought my daughter a '66 Mustang. It has had a 302 put in it. I have no idea what year the engine is. It does have points and not electronic ignition. Not sure if the ignition syatem had been changed. Any numbers anywhere on an engine to indicate the model year? Not sure what to set the plugs or points on. I have been told from .025 to .050 for the plugs and around .017 for the points.
Comments?

 
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07-27-02, 08:21 PM   #2  
Joe_F
Err, you mean 66 Mustang. No 1955 Mustang .

The best place to start is to get an OEM manual which is available about anywhere for this old horse.

As for numbers on the engine, simply visit an old time Ford dealer that still has a copy of the 65 to 72 Ford parts book. I'm sure the numbers are in there. I have a copy at work (it's a 1975 printing...you can still buy the book from Budco or Ford Customer Service, I did for work), and the old books are pretty detailed about that.

The net is literally littered with sites for old Mustangs, so I suggest you hit www.google.com and start your research by typing in your question there.

You can pitch those pesky points with an electronic conversion kit which is much more reliable and looks completely stock. Petronix is one company that sells such a kit.

 
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07-27-02, 09:11 PM   #3  
I think I have this engine narrowed down from '68 to '74. I think the nembers on the block casing tell the story. Plan to see if I can find/see and check them tomorrow. Not sure if the heads have been changed, or what difference the cam will make. It has some kind of cam in it to make it a little more powewrful.
What I really need to do, I guess, is find the guy that supposedly rebuild the engine about 3 years ago.

 
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07-28-02, 04:24 AM   #4  
Nomad559
C = 60s
D = 70s
E = 80s

Look for the casting number at the rear of the block.
It's at the bottom, near the oil pan. If the cast number starts with C9, then then the block Is a 69 year model.

C8 =68
C9 = 69
D1 = 71
D3 = 73
E2 = 82
E6 = 86

It's the same with all the other parts also.

 
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07-28-02, 04:46 AM   #5  
Thanks a bunch, Nomad. The heads have same numbering system?

 
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07-28-02, 07:38 AM   #6  
Joe_F
Yes, that is Fords system:

Ex:

E6AZ-9350A

E=1980's decade design
E+6=1986
A=Designed for a full size Ford
Z=service part

9350=electric fuel pump part group.

A=actual part. B is for Y application, A is for X application.

Bear in mind you may find parts you think don't belong. A head for a full size Ford COULD be correct for your Mustang as just because a part was DESIGNED for one platform, doesn't mean it' s not OEM for something else.

Again a search in www.google.com will net you literally more parts ID sites for Mustangs then you can handle, so dig in!

 
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07-28-02, 12:21 PM   #7  
Ordered kits for the master cylinder and two front wheel cylinders for a '66 Mustang. I noticed a couple of slight differences in the master cylinder kit compared to the old one. The old one had a rubber ring-like deal in the end of the cylinder, instead of a cup. And the pedal rod is longer on the old one. So I got to looking for a vin to determine if I was told right about the model year. The only thing I can find that looks like it may be a vin is just inside the driverside fender under the hood. It does have a warranty number on the driver's door. It says: body- 65A date- '63. I'm thinking the car may actually be a '65. Going to get a book on years covering a few years around this model.

I could not find the block numbers near the oil pan. Maybe they are behind the starter or some other piece. Then again, maybe I need to jack her up , clean a little and really look good. And I will do the google search some mor eon this thing.

Tx

 
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07-28-02, 12:29 PM   #8  
Joe_F
Body 65A is probably the body TYPE, don't confuse it with the model year. Again, I suggest you just go to an old time Ford dealer that still has the books on these cars. Look in the General Information section in the front, it will tell you all you need to know on the body tag and other information.

Post the Vin # here that's on the door jamb or under the hood. Hopefully they match.

Could be a 64 and a 1/2 made in late 1963, all depends.

 
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07-28-02, 01:24 PM   #9  
Body 65A is probably the body TYPE

Think you are right there. I just got back from Advance Auto to check on one of the Haynes books. It only gave like one example of the id tag on the door. Didn't decipher any code, just told what they represented. They also had given me wheel cylinder kits for a Dodge Dynasty , or something! I'll take info off door tag and post it here, maybe someone can tell something from that. I find it odd how the master cylinder for a '65 is so much cheaper than a '66. Assuming they are both rebuilts.

He3re is the info off the door:
6F07C385952 Warranty Number Not for title or identification

Body-65A Color- Y Trim- 22 Date- 17F D.S.O.- 63 Axle trans- 6

Number just inside of drivers fender as best I could make it out--6F08C ( or G ) 175877

Tail lights- TSDE-64

 
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07-28-02, 06:49 PM   #10  
Joe_F
He3re is the info off the door:
6F07C385952 Warranty Number Not for title or identification

--6=1966, F=Dearborn MI assembly plant, 07=Hardtop, C=289 V8, 2 barrel, last six digits, production assembly sequence.


Body-65A Color- Y Trim- 22 Date- 17F D.S.O.- 63 Axle trans- 6

--65A=Hardtop with Standard seats, Y=Silver Blue exterior paint, 22=Blue with blue interior trim. 17F=June 17th assembly date, 63=Originally ordered out of Memphis TN sales district, 6=2.80:1 rear axle ratio. If the tranny code is also 6, you had a C-4 in there originally.

Number just inside of drivers fender as best I could make it out--6F08C ( or G ) 175877

---6 is 1966, F is Dearborn asembly, 08 is convertible with bucket seats, C is 289 2 barrel, 175877 is the sequence. There is no G in 1966 for the engine code.

My guess is that the LH fender is from something else? Another car? Does it appear it was changed or another color?

Car sounds like a hodge podge of parts, be careful.

Decoding source (first hit in Google BTW):
http://www.vintage-mustang.com/topic...de/decode.html

 
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07-28-02, 07:40 PM   #11  
Thanks, Joe. I did give google a shot but did not find info that exact. I did find a guys web site advertising his '68 Shelby with pics and code for it. So I had an idea of what mine code represented. Example: the 6 in the warranty number told me it is '66 ( part of it anyway) heheh. The number on the fender is barely legible, so I could have gotten a few of them wrong.

Again, thanks for that link. I have it in my fav's now for further reference.

 
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08-01-02, 06:25 PM   #12  
. If the cast number starts with C9, then then the block Is a 69 year model.

I noticed the number C8Z3 ( the 3 may have been an E ) on the intake. Does the C8 on the intake also indicate the year 1968 for the intake?

 
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08-02-02, 07:02 AM   #13  
Joe_F
Yes, that would be 1968 designed/engineered/vintage.

Doesn't mean the parts aren't from other things though . You have to get ALL the codes, run them through and see what you've got.

 
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08-02-02, 09:08 AM   #14  
Originally posted by Joe_F
Yes, that would be 1968 designed/engineered/vintage.

Doesn't mean the parts aren't from other things though . You have to get ALL the codes, run them through and see what you've got.
Thats what I was thinking too. On one web site it says '69 an d later have 4 bolts on the crank pulley, and this one does. Seems I have some mix matched parts here. I know where another '69 Mustang is, and I may check on it. Not sure I want my daughter to have this one with the 302 with cam in it at 16. I think I may go with a six banger, or at least go back top 289 original if I can.

 
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08-02-02, 12:00 PM   #15  
never go back to a six, it would be way too much work for something you will regret. Same with the 289. The 302 is a masterpiece, keep it.

I understand not wanting to give your daughter a fast machine. There are PLENTY of things you can do to choke that motor down. Put on a skinny single exhaust, then go back to the original 2 bbl timing. that should choke it down quite a bit. I bet if you are creative, you could design a way to keep the petal from hitting the floor. This way when you want to breath life back into the car, it will be a sinch.

I have found in my experience that a matchbook cover works PERFECTLY for the gap for points.( I am sure I will get hell for this, but give it a try!)

Lastly, I had a 67 stang once, go to your local book store. They sell mustang books that completely lay out the whole vin, and all the codes and how to desipher it.

 
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08-02-02, 06:34 PM   #16  
Joe_F
If you feel the car is too much for her, get her something else. However, she can wrap a Civic around a pole if she is that dangerous .

This is a exercise in maturity more than it is speed. My first car was a 1982 Toronado and a 1980 Trans Am. Both V8s . However, I never drove either car fast or in a wild manner.

Have a talk with your daughter and explain if she breeches your trust with the car, it's the bus to school for a year .

 
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08-02-02, 07:55 PM   #17  
MTgets
Joe,

Never drove the 80 TA fast?? but your JOE COOL!! remember never is reven er.... reving backwards. LOL

 
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08-03-02, 03:12 AM   #18  
never go back to a six, it would be way too much work for something you will regret. Same with the 289. The 302 is a masterpiece, keep it. Actually, I was talking about another '66 Mustang with a smaller engine. I agree, anything can be wrapped around a tree. But some cars are less apt to promote speed. and/or get to speeds not being realized by the inexperienced driver.

 
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08-03-02, 06:49 AM   #19  
Joe_F
Boman:

A car is a machine. Any one of them can cause damage from a Geo Metro to a Corvette in the wrong hands.

As for driving the T/A fast, "no". That's why I've had them since new (my family).

 
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