1994 Explorer

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  #1  
Old 08-03-02, 11:42 AM
Susan Bailey
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Angry 1994 Explorer


Explorer has 150,000+ miles on it. It has a 4.0 liter engine, (6 cyl. you probably already knew that). Oil has been changed every 2,000 miles, tuned up once a year, for as long as I have had it, (3years.) It has a manual transmisson.(5-speed). Repairs I have done on it: clutch, temperature gauge (about 2years ago). Recently, (this week), I have replaced the starter.

The car has been run out of gas before, I do not recall if it was before or after the problems started.

The problems occur regardless of what the outside temperature or humidity level is.

#1 problem: When cranking, after car has set overnight, it takes three tries, before it will remain cranked. It cranks up fine, you would think, but after a second or two it goes dead. After the third try, it remains cranked. It will idle fine after it cranks.

#2 problem: Although it idles fine, if I push the accelerator to the floor, (while in neutral), instead of the rpms rising, they go down. When I take my foot off of the accelerator, for a split second, the rpms increase, and then the engine returns to idle speed.

As I am driving, starting out in first, at about 2000 rpms the car will start to jerk, when I shift into second, it will go again, ( but is very rough), until the rpms reach 2000 again, so I shift into third, and it does the same thing, and so on. Well if I ever get going, I can be riding down the road at any speed, 35, 45, 55, 65 mph when all of a sudden it is as if there is absolutely no power, like maybe it has run out of gas, but it hasn't because there is a full tank. This happens if I push the accelarator down too far. Sometimes when I let up on it, it will go again, sometimes it does not and I have to pull over. But it does not go dead! It continues to idle fine, (well as far as I can tell it is fine), it does not idle rough or anything. I have pumped the accelarator after I pull over, and this has no affect on it. (Acutally what it feels like, in my layman's terms, is like there is a govenor on it. Like you were going too fast so the fuel is cut off until you slow down to the exceptable speed. Only my car does not go again after I slow down.)

I know this is alot or reading, but I wanted to try to explain it as best as I could.

I have gone through several post, and have seen some that almost sounded like it was my problem but not exactly.

Could it be like a fuel sensor? I don't even know if my car has one. Or a mass air flow sensor? Maybe something with the timing? (Is is difficult to change a timing belt? Do you have to reset the timing after changing?) Fuel pressure regulator? EGR valve? ( What is that anyway?) Bad distributor?

Your input will be greatly appreciated. There is no $$$$ to take to shop, besides I am pretty handy if I know what the problem is. I have a manual that has helped me before, ie: the starter.

Thank you so much.......
God bless the USA
Susan
 
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  #2  
Old 08-03-02, 12:37 PM
Joe_F
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Check the posts and links in my signature file below for starters and tell us what you find.
 
  #3  
Old 08-04-02, 06:46 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 247
If your short on funds you might take this thing to Autozone and i believe they might do some simple tests and see maybe if you have any trouble codes in the system.If it has a code then start there.If not i'd start with the basics first,and from what you've posted i'd start with fuel pressure.I believe you can rent a gauge from the parts store or if there slow you might even get them to check it for you.
 
  #4  
Old 08-05-02, 10:48 AM
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Location: Brooklyn, NY
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fordtech

I'm sorry to go off on a tangent here, but Autozone does free checks? (kind of like diagnostic tests that mechanics charge $60 for)? That's my understanding of your post. That's impressive. Can you take any vehicle to them and ask them to look for trouble codes for you?

Hey Susan, glad to hear that you're willing to take on such mechanical endeavors! I wish I could find a woman like you out there!

Re: timing belts; is it possible to replace a timing belt diy style? Isn't there logistics and to the micrometer measurements necessary to coordinate the appropriate tension and alignments?
 
  #5  
Old 08-05-02, 10:56 AM
Joe_F
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With the right tools and procedures, anything is possible .

Yes, Autozone will read your codes for free and tell you what they find. It's a good starting point. I have heard from a poster here though that they don't do foreign cars. Might have been just that store though.
 
  #6  
Old 08-05-02, 03:30 PM
Susan Bailey
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That dadgum Explorer.......again

I went to AutoZone today to see it they would run those simple test for me, and they told me they did not perform that service. The manager was not there, so I did not push it. He will be there tomorrow though and I will pay him a visit.

So.........I came home and replaced the fuel filter. It was much easier than what I had thought it would be. Those little plastic things they sell that disconnect the fittings actually worked!! I "unplugged" the inertia switch so there was hardly any gas leakage at all. I was so proud of myself.............and then I cranked the old Explorer up, and to my dismay this was not the problem.

However, I did mess around with the air cleaner housing. I had already replaced the air filter. When I took outlet tube that runs from the air cleaner housing to the carb., and then I reved the rpms and guess what the problem was gone!! But when I reconnected it, the problem was back. What do you make of that?

Someone else suggested the advanced timing.??????????

I did a no no and drove without the outlet tube on, just to see how it would do. (Just around the block) It had loads of power, but it still cut out on occasion, and I pumped the acceclarator and it gained the power again. It seem to happen more with the ac on.

Does this give you any ideas of where I should go next.

Thanks again for all your help!!!

God bless America,
Susan
 
  #7  
Old 08-05-02, 05:19 PM
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Location: Pittsburgh,Pa
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Curious was oil in your air filter or the hose going to the intake?If so try cleaning your mass air flow sensor with carb cleaner.That would cause your symptoms.
 
  #8  
Old 08-05-02, 07:22 PM
Susan Bailey
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MAF

No there was not oil in the air filter. However, I do believe that it is the MAF. After referring to Alldata.com, all the symptoms that are listed for a dirty, or faulty MAF are present. I was not aware that "one" could be cleaned. So I will difinitely try that before I shell out $150 for a new one.

I think I can see blue skies again.

If this works, I think I might have to throw a party.

Thanks to all, and
God bless America
Susan
 
  #9  
Old 08-05-02, 08:38 PM
Joe_F
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Autozone does do that diagnostic service. Many posters here have already had it done...someone was misinformed.

As for the MAF, a parts store can check it/test it with their reman. electronics supplier for fault before you buy a rebuilt one.
 
  #10  
Old 08-06-02, 12:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 247
It sounds like your on the right track!!.After your sure you've fixed the concern,remove your negative battery cable from the battery for about 5 minutes.This clears any codes in the system
and guess what you don't have to pay a shop to do this.
After clearing the codes drive the vehicle a few miles which lets the computer relearn it's strategy.Hopefully some of this will help.
As far as Autozone goes i was a manager for them for 2 years and we did do some of the basic tests at no charge,but again that might depend on the manager in your area.If the tests showed several possiblities we'd suggest a shop,and if not then we'd suggest what the problem could be.
 
  #11  
Old 08-07-02, 09:26 AM
Susan Bailey
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there is a wire missing

I went back to AutoZone today, and I asked the mananger about running the diagnostic test, and he said of course we do. After hooking up the little thingy, they said that I was missing the small wire that plugs in and it would not work without it. They were really nice and spent several minutes looking for the plug, but could not find it. They could not test the MAF because of the missing wire.

They cleaned out the throttle body for me. Some black smoke came out of the exhaust, but not alot. They suggested I clean the air flow, the same way. I told them I would have to check with some friends of mine first, (That would be you guys).

But, I did go into Alldata.com last night. And it listed the symtoms of what a faulty MAF sensor would cause. And it checks out. Everything that was listed matched up, so...........I guess I will have to come up with $150 to get the sensor. The guy that helped me said that if that wasn't it I could not return the part, but then added that if it was not dirty that they usually do take it back.

So that it my plan unless you all have any other suggestions.

There was one thing I forgot to mention about my car. It has a theft detection device on it. It was on it when I purchased it. The horn used to blow when the door was opened, but it stopped doing that for some reason. Now I have to push a button under the panel to crank. You don't thing this could have anything to do with it do ya?

Thanks a million,
God Bless America,
Susan
 
  #12  
Old 08-07-02, 09:41 AM
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Location: corona Ca.
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Not to go off on a tangent or anything...but you change the oil every 2000 miles?!!! That is crazy. That means with 150000 miles, you have spent about 2000 on oil changes already to date!!! New cars are extremely effiecient. In fact, the owners manual on my wifes 2002 says to change the oil every 10,000 miles. The only reason jiffy lube keeps preaching the 3000 miles is because they will lose mass money if they don't. Unless you drive on dirt roads or extreme conditions every day, save yourself some cash and change the oil every 5000 miles. Just my .02 of course.

Good luck with your problem, let us know what happens.
 
  #13  
Old 08-07-02, 09:44 AM
Joe_F
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Might, might not. Probably not linked to your problem though.


Let us know what you find with AZ on the MAF.

Jeremy: My sister's 2002 Tahoe turned on the oil monitor light at 3,000 miles . So, an engine is an engine. 3k or 3 months oil filter and lube and the car will last forever.

TLC and maintenance is key!
 
  #14  
Old 08-07-02, 09:47 AM
Susan Bailey
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2000 mile oil change

Jeremy,

I did not buy the car brand new. It had 90,000 on it when I purchased it. I still could not imagine changing oil at 5,000 mile intervals. My Ford owners manual states every 3,000, but since I change the oil myself, it only cost around $10.

God Bless America,
Susan
 
  #15  
Old 08-07-02, 12:47 PM
Susan Bailey
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MAF was the problem

I unplugged the MAF and reconnected the inlet tube to the air cleaner housing and the throttle body (I learned that it was not call the carb. Learn something new every day, huh?). I drove it about 10 miles at various speeds, 25 - 70 mph, slowed down, sped up, shifted gears, no problem.

So I revisited MY AutoZone store and purchased a MAF. They put it on for me!!!!!! I could have done it myself of course, but I really appreciated their service. The cost, $67, NAPPA wanted $150. How do they do that and stay in business?

Anyway, problem solved. I would like to thank you all for your help. I can't express in words what it means to me to have someone to come to with not only problems with my vehicle, but also different problems around the house. It really saves a single mom alot of money!!!!!!!!!

God bless you all & of course,
God bless America
Susan
 
  #16  
Old 08-07-02, 03:02 PM
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Good job Susan.
 
  #17  
Old 08-08-02, 05:19 AM
Susan Bailey
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AutoZone prices vs NAPPA

There would have been a $60 core charge with AutoZone, had I taken the part home to install myself. So the price would have been $127, until I returned the old MAF to collect a core reimbursement. So I assume the $151.00 charge by NAPPA probably included a core charge.???? Just wanted to report fairly.

God bless America,
Susan
 
  #18  
Old 08-08-02, 07:04 AM
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Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 279
Jeremy

Congrats on the purchase of your new home. I hope you paint and do maintainance way more often than you intend to change your car's oil!
 
  #19  
Old 08-08-02, 11:07 AM
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Thanks, I can't wait to move in. Do some research on the oil thing, you will find out I am right. Many newer cars do not require an oil change till 10000 miles, and it says it in the owners manual.

I change the oil on my 86 stang 5.0 every 8000 miles. It now has 173 k miles on the clock, and runs like a scared rabbit. So long as you check your oil and fluids every time you fill up, and top off as needed you will be fine.
 
  #20  
Old 08-08-02, 01:18 PM
Joe_F
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10,000 miles is too extreme in most cases. Go by the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual and match your driving to what they show in the tables. That is how to determine how to change your oil. Do not wait for the silly light to tell you it's time. Lol.

I can tell you EVERY ONE of my cars is SPOTLESS inside the engine thanks to 3k oil changes. It's the best thing you can do for an engine!

In all cases, follow the best maintenance schedule that matches your driving habits. That's the best rule of thumb.

Talk to some insiders and they will tell you that most people drive severe (stop and go, short trips) and don't even realize it .
 
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