1992 taurus slide on bumpy wet road


Old 08-05-02, 05:42 PM
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1992 taurus slide on bumpy wet road

I recently aquired a 1992 Ford Taurus (3.0 V6 Auto. 140k+ mi.) and whenever I drive on a wet bumpy road the car will slide some into the other lane as I hit the bump (with the steering wheel pulling some, too). I did not notice this problem when the car was purchased. The tires are not bald but are getting near replacement. I'm new to front wheel drive cars (this being the 1st) so I don't know if this contibutes to the problem since I never had this happen on any RWD. Also I wondered if additional weight in the back adds to the problem as well since there is usually a third person in the back seat when this occurs.

This problem only occurs when the road is wet and requires a FIRM two hands on the steering wheel.

Last edited by daryj; 08-05-02 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 08-05-02, 05:48 PM
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i would check your struts or shocks and make sure they are not wornout , take it to a shop and have them put it on the lift and have them check out the suspension alot of times it is common for a sway bar link to be broken but if more weight in the car adds to the problem it is likely wornout struts or shocks.
Old 08-05-02, 06:00 PM
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(reply to bejay) I would not doubt that since the struts (another item new to me) are original. Although the "bounce" test (pushing up and down on each corner of the car and watching for continued bouncing) show almost no extra movement. Unless this doesn't apply to struts (or if its even used anymore).
Old 08-06-02, 08:06 AM
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Take to a good front end shop and have them check it out and get a FOUR WHEEL ALIM. this will set the rear tracking with ft. and is almost a most on ft. wheel drive. -Good Luck -Dave-
Old 02-20-03, 04:46 PM
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I found out the actual problem. On the backside of the steering knuckle there is a (I don't remember the techical name) bracket that clamps the upper "shaft" of the ball joint with a bolt/nut combo. This was not tight enough and the resulting play caused the steering problems. I put 2 + 2 together when I replaced the ball joints (which didn't need it because this was the actual problem). This leads me to my next question. Can I tighten that "clamp" that holds the BJ any tighter (its a molded part of the knuckle which is iron/steel in composition) or do I risk breaking it being an older car (I still have room to tighten it, I just fear breaking it and needing a new knuckle and no car in meantime)??
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