!994 Ford Taurus Check Engine Light

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  #1  
Old 09-01-02, 09:11 AM
misnomerny
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Question !994 Ford Taurus Check Engine Light

Just noticed that the Check Engine light on my 1994 Ford Taurus w/ 3.8 V6 flashes at unpredictable times. Looked in the manual and it says that if the Check Engine light only flashes but does not stay on continuously that it is only a temporary condition with the Emissions Control. Any guesses on which emission component would be the culprit. It looks like as the car gets warmer the flashing is more frequent - Uusually stays on about 10 seconds then goes off. Thanks for any info
 
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  #2  
Old 09-01-02, 01:11 PM
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You need to have the codes ran to see what sensor might be malfunctioning.There are just to many possiblities and guessing will only cost you money and headaches in the long run.
 
  #3  
Old 09-01-02, 04:27 PM
Joe_F
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Any Autozone store can scan for codes and advise you what they find.

Tell us what they find.
 
  #4  
Old 09-03-02, 03:38 AM
misnomerny
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Check engine light

Thanks for the replies. Please correct me if I am wrong but the Haynes manual I am using indicates that computer diagnostics became available on the 1995 Taurus since I have a 1994 it would not be available to me. Could it be a component related to engine heat. I don't get the light during my morning commute only when I am in local stop and go running the kids around. Thanks for your help
 
  #5  
Old 09-03-02, 05:41 AM
Joe_F
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You can probably extract the codes yourself by using the links and posts in my signature file. Again, any Autozone can scan your codes for free, so I suggest you do that.
 
  #6  
Old 09-06-02, 04:16 AM
misnomerny
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Check Engine Lights - No Diagnostics Codes

Folks - the 1994 model of the Ford Taurus does not have computer diagnostics. I have looked at the owner's manual, the Haynes Manual and AutoZone. As I suspected computer diagnostics were installed starting in the 1995 model year.
Please permit me to restate the issue for review:

The check engine light on my 3.8L V6 1994 Ford Taurus comes on at unpredictable times for about 10 seconds while driving after the engine is warmed up but does not stay on.

The owner's manual says that if the light does not stay on it is only a temporary condition with one of the Emissions Control components that should not be of concern.

People have told me to go to AutoZone and get a computer readout. The 1994 model does not have computer diagnostics so there aren't any scan codes.

Can you think of any component of the Emissions Control System that would be affected by the engine heating up? Thanks for any help
 
  #7  
Old 09-06-02, 06:03 AM
Joe_F
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Not sure what you mean.

A 1994 Taurus is computer controlled and a scan tool (which Autozone should have) can and does read the codes.

That's the way to go at this point. Have you gone to an Autozone and asked them?
 
  #8  
Old 09-08-02, 12:38 PM
misnomerny
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Check Engine Light - follow up

Joe,

You were correct. AutoZone was able to run a scan code on the Check Engine Light Condition. The AutoZone guy eliminated the 3 of the codes as no need for attention, i.e. 539 - A/C on during self test

Here is what the scan code he said was the problem: 632
and the code message is:

Transmission Sensor Overdrive Cancel Switch circuit doesn't change during
K. O. E. O. Test
e--n--n--f
y-----g---f
-------i
------ n
-------e

I cannot locate any information on the Transmission Sensor Overdrive Cancel Switch in the Haynes Manual nor where it is located on the engine. AutoZone does not carry the switch.
How critical is this component and where is it located? What do you think Ford will charge for the part?

Thanks again for your patience and help

Regards
 
  #9  
Old 09-08-02, 01:31 PM
Joe_F
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It's a dealer part. There is usually a way to turn off the overdrive on most Fords...some have a switch at the end of the gearshift lever and then a light will come on the dash to say "Overdrive off".

Have any dealership look up this part at the Ford parts counter.
 
  #10  
Old 09-08-02, 02:23 PM
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you say he eliminated 3 codes as no need for attention and listed one which will show up when you have the a/c on and run the test what are the other codes he eliminated cause im fairly certain that code 632 isn't causing your check engine light to come on. it was probably set due to operator fault.
 
  #11  
Old 09-08-02, 04:04 PM
misnomerny
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Check Engine Light - Follow up

Thanks for the quick response - there were 4 codes total that came off the scan

in order 539, 652, 632, 732

The Autozone guy discounted everything but the 632. I have the code definition for the 539 - The AC was running at the time of the scan. I don't know what the 652 or 732 are. Any help is appreciated. Thanks again
 
  #12  
Old 09-10-02, 12:57 PM
misnomerny
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Check Engine K.O.E.R. codes Ford Taurus

Follow up on the DTC. I returned to AutoZone and got them to run a K.O.E.R. code scan and the codes are as follows:

521 - PSPS circuit doesn't change states during self test

536 - Brake On Offopen or shorted to Ground.

What are my next steps? Do we have enough info to determine a repair? Again thanks
 
  #13  
Old 09-10-02, 03:21 PM
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well when doing a koer test the operator is supposed to apply the brake once , turn the steering wheel 180 degrees and release, and cycle the overdrive switch if applicable, and may even have to snap the throttle. the one code that i noticed that wasnt operator fault but was transmission related, was 652 i believe which is for the tcc clutch circuit problem, i would suggest you disconnect the battery to clear any codes that may be in it at this time and drive vehicle till you notice check engine light has came on and then go to dealer or independent shop that is capable of doing some transmission work and see what they find.
 
  #14  
Old 09-11-02, 04:37 PM
misnomerny
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Check engine light - follow up

First of all thanks guys for your incredible patience. I am learning a lot by this experience. I was part chicken and part lazy depending on AutoZone to extract the codes. After your appropriate urging I went ahead and did the following:

1. I disconnected the neg cable to the battery for 15 minutes to clear all previous codes from the dtc module last night.

2. I drove the car this morning without using the a/c and the check engine light never came on once.

3. This afternoon drove it home with the a/c and the check engine light came on a couple of times.

4. Drove the car to run errands after work without using the a/c and again the check engine light never came on once

5. Got brave and pulled out my test light, and multi meter and hooked it up according to the diagram. Ran a K.O.E.R. test. Now I hope I am able to give you relevant codes along with the little fact about the a/c as a part of this.

3 flashes - according to the manual is the engine id which would make sense since it is a 6 cylinder and the translation of the id is 3 flashes

code 33 - according to the Haynes 1994 repair manual - "EGR valve not opening; insufficient flow detected." According to the Bat.com site, "All - EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE

code 332 - Haynes manual, "EGR Valve opening not detected." Bat.com site, "EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently, EVR or PFE."

Since this was a K.E.O.R. test the codes are not memory codes so I should discount the last part of those messages referring to memory, correct?

If these codes are correct how do they relate to the running of the a/c? Should I just replace the EGR? Again a huge thanks for all the help
 
  #15  
Old 09-11-02, 05:41 PM
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when you cleared the codes you cleared the continuous memory also, once you shut the car off that code went to continuous memory. the paticular style egr valve rarely ever goes bad you need to check your vacum lines from egr to egr solenoid and back to intake manifold if they look ok you can start the vehicle and let it idle, now you have two wires going to egr solenoid one will be red in color that is the power wire you can take a jumper wire and install in the other wire at the egr solenoid and ground it to a good ground or negative side of the battery [do not ground the red wire] if you do you will blow a fuse and the car will die and not restart until fuse is replaced. when you ground the solenoid it will allow vacum to go to the egr valve and you should notice the engine idling rough may even try to stall, this tells you your egr, egr solenoid and vacum lines are all ok, if the above checks ok the most likely cause would be a pfe or dpfe sensor it is a little square senor that has atleast one hose if its a pfe going to exhast tube or two hoses if it is a dpfe will be close to egr valve.
there is a couple of other possibilities causing these codes to set such as carboned up egr passages and broken wiring to ecm or bad ecm but the pfe sensor commonly goes bad.
 
  #16  
Old 09-12-02, 09:39 AM
misnomerny
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Check Engine Light - Follow up

Thanks Bejay for your very informative help. Can you tell me if there is some relationship between this condition and running the a/c? Is the a/c operation somehow affecting the EGR vacuum lines or the power to the EGR. I drove to work this morning again without a/c on and no check engine light. Whenever I run the a/c the check engine starts to come on at irregular intervals, especially when I decelerate to a stop. When I come to a complete stop I count 5 seconds and on it comes. Also related to the a/c the condensation appears to be splashing on manifold or something because I hear a lot of steam hiss noises after I park the car and stop it after running the a/c a while. Car runs just fine so I am scratching my head here.
Thanks
 
  #17  
Old 09-12-02, 10:25 AM
knuckles
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Code 33 is not a valid code for your car. All 1991-1995 Ford passenger cars with EEC-IV use THREE DIGIT CODES.

I suggest you check out the link below. I believe I posted this in reply to your question in the Domestic Forum at batauto.com a few days ago.

http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/index4.html
 
  #18  
Old 09-22-02, 03:36 PM
misnomerny
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Resolution to the Check Engine Light

First of all thanks to every one who contributed thoughts here to help me on this problem. I changed out the two O2 sensors and that appears to have solved the problem. As per Joe's request I am putting down some thoughts on my resolution that may help the next guy down the road.

On the 94 Taurus the Haynes Manual does not mention that there are two sensors - one in the front of the manifold and one in the rear manifold. The one in front requires a 13" harness cable and the rear one requires a 8 1/2" harness cable.

Check the new sensors to see if they are pre-greased with anti-seizing compound. Make sure you have some on there before you install the new sensors

On the Taurus the nut size of the sensor is 7/8 inch and a crow foot wrench that goes on a socket wrench with a 6" extension is your best bet to get at the rear sensor otherwise forget it because it is obstructed by the transmission filter, the manifold pipe and part of the vehicle frame.
 
  #19  
Old 09-23-02, 05:56 AM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Good job.

Typical of Ford to make an easy job a gazorch on one of their products .
 
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