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tie rods


kaybyrd's Avatar
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09-10-02, 06:34 AM   #1  
tie rods

I messed up and and wondering if this is something that I can fix or is it time for the shop again.

I replaced the tie rods on the truck. I've done this many times before and had hoped that since I've had the suspension repaired, that it would be awhile before I had to do it again.

I didn't have the wheels straight ahead when I put them on. Now, not only is the steering wheel way off center, when I "hard" turn I feel and hear the tie rod hitting something solid. I haven't check to see what exactly its hitting, but it can't be good.

I need to take it in for the alignment since I replaced the tie rods, but am wondering if this is something I need to fix before I take it in, or have them fix it while aligning it? I'm already looking at $50 for the alignment and would rather the bill not go any higher if I can keep from it. I need to put brakes on the truck so that would be a good time to fix what I messed up if that's possible.

Kay

 
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kaybyrd's Avatar
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09-10-02, 09:44 AM   #2  
Update:

Went ahead and stopped at the local shop to have the toe-in set on the truck and to find out why things were out of wack. Come to find out the tie-rods are fine, but the drag link is bad. Both tie-rod ends there need replacing, which means the whole thing.

Ask them not to do it, I would install it myself and then return for the toe-in alignment. Then they go to check my brakes. I guess its a courtesy thing because I didn't need them to check nor did I ask them to check, since that's on my list of to-do's. They broke off 3 lugs, and I was already missing one so that left 2 that were good. I left there so frustrated. I spent $110 having them replaced. I spent as much on the plain lug nuts as I did when I had the chrome ones installed. $20+ a lug. They replaced 5 instead of all six as I requested. If they are breaking like that, lets get the last two out and replace them too. Why 5 instead of 6? I hate when I get that frustrated at a bill that I can't even ask the people I need to ask this question. I was quoted $5 a lug plus labor, too. Ended up being $10 per lug, plus labor.

Okay, now that I've ranted... I will replace the drag link and take the silly truck to Sam's for the alignment.

Kay

 
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09-10-02, 10:28 AM   #3  
Joe_F
Go through the entire front end and pitch anything that's questionable. It costs you more when you piece meal it together.

When I do a front end, I typically dump the whole thing and build it back up. This way everything is new and ready to go. No questionable parts.....

 
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09-10-02, 10:46 AM   #4  
I will do that Joe. I've had this truck for 3 years now, and have done the regular maintenance things on it, but never gone in and just replaced them. I would like to go in and put a whole new brake system in, lines, rotors, calipers - the works. I recently had the front end serviced, but would also like to get in there and replace bearings instead of just repacking them, etc. While I'm at it, probably go for new ball joints, too. Like you said, no piecemealing anymore. Leaves room for problems later, and also the risk of damaging a new part.

My husband called the shop about the bill (he's a calm guy so he didn't rant and rave) to ask them the questions I had, and they refunded me the parts price, and we agreed to pay the labor. The only time they give the brakes a look-see is if you actually have work performed, and since they didn't the check should have never been done.

I will focus on getting the draglink (they called it something else) replaced, get the front end aligned and then start on the brake system.

Kay

 
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09-10-02, 12:24 PM   #5  
Joe_F
The term they used is probably "center link". Drag link is for trucks in most cases. Same basic thing.

Glad to hear you got it resolved. I do not have much work done on my cars. Whatever I "farm out" is to friends/associates in the business (say exhaust work where a torch is required) who I know and give me a discount and let me watch them do the work.

 
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09-10-02, 10:24 PM   #6  
josh1
If youre in the market for new brake lines....

AUTOMECs copper/nickel lines get my 100% satisfaction vote. Plus itll be the last time you replace them... Ever! Im using them in my car resto and I loved working with them..smooth to bend easy to handle..good flares.

May have to look around they are UK based but they make line sets for virtually any car out there..and if they dont have it yet they give you a 50% discount on making the lines up.. (although shipping to and fro gb may not be cheap.

Hope this helps-Josh

 
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09-11-02, 05:38 AM   #7  
That brings to mind a question that I had last night. I understand why the need for flexible lines, but why do we use both instead of all flexible?

Kay.

 
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09-11-02, 06:17 AM   #8  
Joe_F
The rubber flex lines are available at any parts store...cheap insurance...change them.

As for the steel lines, they are available premade from FineLines, Classic Tube, Inline tube, etc. Stainless steel ones will outlast the truck .

 
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09-11-02, 11:24 AM   #9  
josh1
flex lines harden internally and often swell shut if not changed regularly. ( on 40 year old british cars so maybe not a big concern for you) THe braided SS flex lines are top notch i like the goodyear ones myself. They do not expand under pressure resulting in firmer pedal feel however this also gives less pedal feedback, it depends on your driving style if you should use them.
SS lines will last as long as copper/nickel but they are much harder to fit. ( have a ss clutch line). IF all brake lines were rubber flex youd have so much swelling that pedal travel would probably double under normal breaking.

Hope this helps-Josh

 
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09-11-02, 11:54 AM   #10  
I undersand. Makes so much sense that I'm embarrassed, plus I learned that in school and totally forgot. I'm going to be brazen and blame it on the sinus medication My left brain is numb so I can't think logically and my right brain is in la-la land and couldn't even venture a creative guess.

Thanks.

Kay

 
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