braking causing vibration

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  #1  
Old 10-03-02, 10:15 AM
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Angry braking causing vibration

I had my brakes done on a 1997 Bonneville SSE 3.8L engine in June. I replaced my rotors and pads (semi-metalic). A week later I noticed the steering wheel vibrating while applying the brake. I returned the vehicle to repair. They turned the rotors and replaced the pads. The problem started again about 3 weeks later. I returned it for repair about six weeks later. The rotors that were recently replaced were pass specs (I drove 12,800 miles since my original visit). They replaced the rotors and pads again. About three weeks later the same problem again. What could the problem be?
 

Last edited by eeomega; 10-03-02 at 11:40 AM.
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  #2  
Old 10-03-02, 10:27 AM
Joe_F
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Type of vehicle?
 
  #3  
Old 10-03-02, 11:50 AM
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1997 pontiac bonneville 3.8L auto trans
 
  #4  
Old 10-03-02, 01:10 PM
Joe_F
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Poor quality pads or likley poor quality replacement rotors that have warped again.

Only use good American or Canadian made OEM or quality aftermarket replacements. Offshore stuff warps easily.
 
  #5  
Old 10-03-02, 04:28 PM
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Joe is right. When I bought my tbird, it had brake problems. I took it back to the dealership, and they did the rear brakes for free. 2 months later, I developed further problems and took it in again. Found out my pads were cracking. I asked them about this and said that they (the toyota dealership) where I bought my tbird used generic brake parts on all their cars!! I forced them to pay to take it to a Ford dealership and put Premium brakes on it. 2 years later, no probs. Your problem is likely attributed to generic parts, but could also be attributed to a heavy right foot.

Also, check to see that your rear brakes are functioning properly. If your rear brakes are not working, then that would put all the duty of stopping your car on the front brakes.
 
  #6  
Old 10-03-02, 11:20 PM
knuckles
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another possibility

Modern cars use relatively thin 'hubless' rotors. It is very easy to warp these rotors if an impact wrench is used to tighten the lug nuts. Even good quality American or Canadian made rotors can be ruined by overtightening the lug nuts.

Your best bet would probably be to replace the rotors with quality units cast & machined in North America. Make sure the installer tightens the lug nuts to spec. with a TORQUE WRENCH and make sure he tightens them in a "star" pattern.

Ask the service person to take a look at GM TSB 23-50-05B for more information.
 
  #7  
Old 10-04-02, 05:49 AM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Very true, good point by Knuckles.
 
  #8  
Old 10-04-02, 08:50 AM
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If problem continues, and it's only on one side, you may want to replace the rubber brake line going into the caliper. I've had them where they fail on the inside and act as check valves not allowing the caliper go back after you remove foot from brake.
 
  #9  
Old 10-04-02, 11:02 AM
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Raybestos pads and rotors were used. The work was done by Pepboys. Are these parts considered cheap?
 
  #10  
Old 10-04-02, 11:05 AM
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Do you think the semi-metallic pads vs. the ceramic could cause the problem?
 
  #11  
Old 10-04-02, 11:26 AM
Joe_F
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No, this is not the likely cause of the issue.

Knuckles' idea is probably what happened.
 
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