In a bind - steering-wise

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  #1  
Old 10-18-02, 02:01 PM
ca2stay
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In a bind - steering-wise

I have a 1969 Cougar w/Power Steering. I am in the process of replacing the Power Steering Control Valve and Cylinder. For those of you not familiar with the setup, it's similar to the Mustang in that the Control Valve makes the connection from the Pitman Arm to the Drag Link.

The Control Valve has a stud that attaches through the Pitman Arm. During the removal process, the stud separated from the Control Valve and is frozen in the Pitman Arm. I've applied heat (MAPP), Liquid Wrench, and muscle (hammer) to no avail. I believe that the MAPP is not heating the joint enough to break it free. So, the next step is:

Use a hotter flame on the Pitman Arm in hopes of separating the stud? Cut the stud fluxh w/Pitman Arm and use a drill to drill out the stud? OR R&R the Pitman Arm? BTW, the Pitman Arm nut is fairly large and is also in there pretty good. It's hard to get leverage while on my back.

Recommendations please.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-18-02, 04:18 PM
Joe_F
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This is where air tools rule. You could put an air gun on that thing and whip it right off.

I would take out and pitch the pitman arm. Generally a non wear item, but Fords have a habit of leaky seals in them.

If you can get the assembly out, a machine shop may be able to press out the old one for you.
 
  #3  
Old 10-18-02, 04:57 PM
ca2stay
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Lightbulb I feel like Tim Allen

Thanks Joe,

I guess it may be time to invest in some air tools. I have more work to do on this car that would probably benefit from a little air pressure (i.e. exhaust & shocks). Amazing how 33 year old joints don't like to come apart.

I've been acquiring tools at a pretty good rate lately. What's another couple of hundred bucks? ;-)

I'll let you know how I make out.

Sincerely,

Jeff
 
  #4  
Old 10-18-02, 07:36 PM
knuckles
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Is $40 better than $200? If so, check out a tie rod separator from your local auto parts store. The jaw/forcing screw type should work for your application. Copy & past the URL below for a picture of the tool I'm describing.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop...N-OLD-2544.jpg

Of course, there's always the 2 hammer method. It's free & it has never failed me.
 
  #5  
Old 10-21-02, 10:56 AM
ca2stay
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Thanks, Knuckles.

I've seen the tool you linked, but only as a pitman arm removal tool. I'll check w/my local Kragen and see if they have a smaller one for tie-rod end removal.

Jeff
 
  #6  
Old 10-23-02, 06:55 AM
redneck
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If it is really on there those tools will fail also, the last pitman and idler arm replacement I did cost me two tools--it is usually the air impact that does them in!
 
  #7  
Old 10-23-02, 05:37 PM
ca2stay
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Next Step

Thanks. I didn't get to work on it last weekend (wife said something about taking a trip). So I'll get back to it this weekend.

It's beginning to sound like I ought to drop the steering gear (3 bolts on the frame and 2 @ the steering wheel shaft) out of the car and attempt to do this on the bench. I think trying to do this on my back is making it somewhat difficult to get the position and leverage I want.
 
  #8  
Old 10-23-02, 05:59 PM
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Just hit the side of the arm next to stud. The hole is tappered and the shock of the blow temporally distorts the hole and the stud will pop out. Hit it with a good size hammer a couple of blows.

Tie rod fork causes more damage to boots and will not work for this application.

Larry
 
  #9  
Old 10-24-02, 12:17 AM
knuckles
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Thumbs up

"Just hit the side of the arm next to stud. "

That's the "two hammer" method that I mentioned earlier. Place a hammer on the back side of the arm for support. Strike the front side of the arm with another 40oz. or larger hammer. It's never failed me & it doesn't damage parts.
 
  #10  
Old 10-24-02, 09:04 AM
ca2stay
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Got it!

Thank you. I'll try it this weekend.

I already learned that the tie-rod fork does damage the hard way(that's how I got in this mess) :-(. I'm hoping that I can get the leverage I need to use the 2 hammer method. If not, I'll remove the Pitman Arm and try it on the bench.

I'll let you know how I make out.
 
  #11  
Old 11-04-02, 08:50 AM
ca2stay
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Steering OUT!!

Hi all,

FINALLY!!

I went to my local Kragen and rented a front end removal kit for a grand sum of $6/day. The kit contained the pullers I needed. The one I used was configured like a clothes-pin and had a screw on one end to apply pressure to the top of the stud. Once the pressure was on, I tapped it w/a hammer and the stud popped out.
 
  #12  
Old 11-04-02, 10:12 AM
Joe_F
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Good job!

I believe Autozone will rent you the stuff for free in their tool rental program, but 6 bucks a day is quite reasonable too.
 
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