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replacing shocks


bledsoe's Avatar
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10-31-02, 09:01 AM   #1  
bledsoe
replacing shocks

Hi, I have a '95 Explorer, 120K miles, automatic, that bounces all over the place over every bump. I'm going to replace the shocks. How can I tell if the torsion bars need to be replaced too? The ride height seems Ok, it never bottoms out. Any other way to tell? Also, will I need any special tools for replacing the shocks? It's just a matter of unbolting the old ones, and bolting in the new ones, right? Lastly, should I also replace the rear shocks? It's tough to tell if the rear of the vehicle is bouncing around too....

Thanks

 
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10-31-02, 09:05 AM   #2  
Joe_F
Pitch all four shocks for new ones at this mileage.

Check autolibrary.org for some R&R specifics and tools required.

 
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11-14-02, 08:17 AM   #3  
bledsoe
Hi, I got around to doing the front, went well, pretty easy. Now I'm going to do the rear shocks. Question is, should I lift(i have a lift, not using jackstands) the car up by the rear axle or by the frame? The axles needs support underneath right? The front was a little tricky because i lifted it by the frame so the wheels were sort of hanging.

 
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11-14-02, 09:15 AM   #4  
Joe_F
Some rear shocks can be done without jacking up anything. I just rear shocks on my Chevy Cavalier without even taking the wheels off or jacking it up .

If you can get to all the bolts and get the shock out, no need to take off the wheel or jack up anything.

What does autolibrary.org have to say?

 
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11-14-02, 11:16 AM   #5  
bledsoe
Sometimes I can't get to that website, but now i can. It does say to support by the axle. Thanks. While I'm at it, is there any way to stiffen up the suspension of this truck. stronger sway bars maybe??? backing out of driveways is the worst, it bounces side to side quite a bit. Any suggestions?

 
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11-14-02, 01:11 PM   #6  
Baldguy
Explorer Shocks

I put Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks on my 1993 4wd Explorer last year. The rears you do not need jack up the rear end. Just block the wheels.

There should be two bolts on the top of the shock and two on the bottom. I removed the bottom two and then the top two.

When I installed the new shocks, I put the top bolts in first. Then slightly compressed the shock and threaded in the bottom bolts a little by hand. Finished by tightening all the bolts with a wrench. Took me about an hour or so, not working very fast.

Hope this helps.

 
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11-14-02, 01:21 PM   #7  
Joe_F
That truck is bouncy enough as it is. Leave it alone and leave the suspension stock.

I agree with Baldguy on the replacement of the shocks. Quite easy.

 
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11-14-02, 01:28 PM   #8  
bledsoe
That's what I mean though, it's way too bouncy. Any suggestions on how to help this??? I want to keep the truck for a while.

 
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11-14-02, 05:09 PM   #9  
Joe_F
Early Explorers are rough riding, crude examples of SUV's.....not a whole lot you can do.

Use good quality tires and normal rate (Gabriel VST or Monroe SensaTrac) shocks and it should be ok.

You'll never get it to ride like a rear drive GM luxury car .

 
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11-18-02, 10:27 AM   #10  
bledsoe
what a difference!

I finally got around to doing the rear shocks and WOW! what a difference. It feels great now, could be better, but it's still 10 times better that it was before. The front shocks helped a little, but doing all 4 is what really made the difference. Thanks

 
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11-18-02, 11:58 AM   #11  
yup

I had to replace the shocks on this old 1985 Riviera I used to have, and that sucker rode like a brand new Caddy. Beforehand, it would dance all over the road when you hit a patch of potholes, very common in SC thanks to our idiots in the DOT.

 
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