1986 Ford Ranger problems

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  #1  
Old 11-02-02, 08:21 AM
tharrington
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Question 1986 Ford Ranger problems

I just took my Ranger in to have new tires put on....they said it woukd be an hour, i left (big mistake) and came back later...when i returned this mechanic says there is a problem,,,,,seems he says the manual lock out hub was broken and the suds were loose....he then hands me the hub.....how could this happen????i had driven many many miles with it like it was....wouldn't i have had some warning to these problems he was explainin to me?????...and if it truly was broken,,,,,what is this going to cost me and how hard is it to repair?????? any immediate help would be greatly appreciated.......i finally started getting the truck to run in decent shape after oxygen sensor was bad....is this thing going to nickel and dime me to death......PLEASE HELP !!!!!!!!!
thanks again ....
 
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  #2  
Old 11-02-02, 02:01 PM
Joe_F
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How many miles on the vehicle?
 
  #3  
Old 11-03-02, 06:32 PM
Rheitz
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86 Bronco 11

I have an 86 bronco 11 with 158,000 miles ,2.9 liter engine. My problem happened when I tried to go to 4 wheel drive(automatic hubs). I hadn't used it for months-4 wheeldrive. When I pushed the button ,the light indicator flashed just once,nothing happened. I punched it again in low range- again it flicked once-nothing. I tried it again several times ,it will flicker and if I push it again,nothing. Isn,t there a small motor that turns your hubs and where is it located? Could the hubs be frozen from lack of use? I don't think it's a fuse or the light wouldn't flicker. Any help would be appreciated-Ron
 
  #4  
Old 11-03-02, 07:28 PM
crazyideatim
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I'm trying to remember my 85 bII

the locking 4wd on that year is just an aluminum hat right, it slides over the shaft and floating hub.. what exactly is broken?

as for the studs being loose.. ...well, it might be related to the hat part, so how is the hat broken, internally or is it fractured?
 
  #5  
Old 11-04-02, 06:30 AM
tharrington
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there is 135,000 miles on this truck....i went to bone yard and got different hub ....seems to work fine...i also changed the rotor so the studs are all good again.....the hub that was broke was broke right off the collar that goes over the studs....not exactly sure how these lockouts work...they look simple with little to know moving parts as i see......but i put the truck in 4-wheel after replacing hub and it seemed to work fine....thanks for all your replies....maybe you can aid me in the easiest way to change the o2 sensor?????,,,,thanks
 
  #6  
Old 11-04-02, 07:38 AM
Joe_F
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The 02 sensor will come out with a special slotted socket designed for the job (any parts store has it or will rent it to you). Spray it with WD40 (cold) before you try to take it out.

Replace one wire O2 sensors every year or so, they get lazy pretty fast..especially on older vehicles.

As for the other guy with the 4WD issue, some Fords have problems where the motors/actuators brushes get glazed and the 4WD won't engage. Happens to vehicles where the 4WD isn't used much.

Knuckles has published a link to a website with a fix for that. I cannot recall if this is electronic 4WD or vacuum. If vacuum, check all vacuum lines and the switches related to the same. Check the autolibrary link below in my signature file.
 
  #7  
Old 11-06-02, 06:13 AM
redneck
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Best thing to do with those older "automatic" Ford hubs is replace them with manual lock out hubs from Warn--your local parts guy or gal will sell you the hubs and the conversion kit that goes with it. I did my buddys '93 Ranger last Fall, while we had it apart doing upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, and brakes--he has well over 170,000 on it and it runs great.
 
  #8  
Old 11-06-02, 09:38 AM
tharrington
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thanks for all the help so far....i will spray the o2 sensor and get the right tool....it is a 3 wire system...how long do they last???????????????...and my other question is can these trucks run good without the o2 sensor?????????????....not sure why they were ever installed in vehicles anyway....seems to be a problem with many vehicles they are in.......the reason for changing it is...the truck hesitates badly on acceleration...unless i just feather the gas to get going...on hills it will lose 10 mph or more and if i give it to much throttle it chokes up......i will be changing it this weekend...bought the new parts already...was just wondering if it could be bypassed or not?????????....thanks
 
  #9  
Old 11-06-02, 09:41 AM
Joe_F
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No, it cannot be bypassed. It is an integral part of the engine management system.

It is put there to help performance and fuel economy.

Anyone that tells you to bypass emission controls thinking that they will get higher performance and/or better performance should close the hood and step away from the vehicle .
 
  #10  
Old 11-06-02, 09:44 AM
tharrington
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thanks joe....was just wondering about it.....i guess its time to get the hands dirty and fix it right....you have been very helpful...i will reply when the work is done to let you know if it all worked out or if any other problems may come up....thanks again
 
  #11  
Old 11-13-02, 02:46 PM
tharrington
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thanks for everyone's advice to this point....I now have the new o2 sensor in....did not help it at all....still misses when i lay into the gas trying to pass , loses power going up hills, and really sucks the gas.....my thoughts are clogged catylytic converter....any other suggestions to what else it could be?????????????????????....if it is converter, can i clean it out without replacing this high cost item .....if so how????....this truck is nickel and diming me , I would really like to get to the bottom of the problem ...thanks
 
  #12  
Old 11-13-02, 04:17 PM
Rheitz
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automatic hubs

I was wondering whether the motor that shifts your transfer case into 4-wheel could be rebuilt? It seems to me they are no different than getting a rebuilt starter etc.-Ron
 
  #13  
Old 11-13-02, 06:00 PM
Joe_F
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No, you cannot clean out the converter. If it's bad, it must be replaced. Any shop can do a backpressure check and tell you if it is. It is illegal to remove any part of the original emission control system.

First, start with a complete tuneup, including all filters. Run a code check (Autozone can do this for free for you) and tell us what you find.

Most Fords nickel and dime you . That's why they are #2, not #1 .
 
  #14  
Old 11-13-02, 07:35 PM
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Have you checked your fuel pressure yet?If not tape a guage to the windshield and go up a hill and see if it stays in specs.Converter may be bad but elimination is the name of the game before purchasing parts.
 
  #15  
Old 11-13-02, 07:35 PM
tharrington
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thanks joe...I will get the test done on it....guess i should have got a chevy...hahaha
 
  #16  
Old 11-14-02, 07:01 PM
trueshot
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Question 88 bronco 2

It seems as though tharrington and I are having similiar troubles.I was wondering if the diagnostics will show codes if the "check engine" light doesnt come on.My bronco 2 idles fine for a few minutes at about 1000 rpms,then drops down to 600-700 rpms,almost stalls,then jumps back up a little past 1000 and returns to normal idle and then repeats.(88 ford bronco 2 2.9 L EFI)I cant detect a vacuum leak.
 
  #17  
Old 11-14-02, 09:02 PM
Joe_F
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Clean the throttle body with the Ford approved cleaner and check the IAC valve. They are notorious stickers on Fords, causing idle hunt and racing problems.
 
  #18  
Old 11-15-02, 07:40 AM
tharrington
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trueshot..i'm having mine analyzed today i will le you know what i come up with....also i am not sure that the 86-89 ranger or bronco came with a check engine light...i have never seen one come on with my problems occurring...i will get back later on my findings...hopefully it will help narrow it down see ya soon.
 
  #19  
Old 11-16-02, 08:42 AM
trueshot
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What is an IAC valve?
 
  #20  
Old 11-16-02, 09:19 AM
Joe_F
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Idle Air Control (Called Idle Bypass on Ford).

Suggest you check autolibrary.org in my signature file to familiarize yourself with the various emission controls on the vehicle.
 
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