Replacing serpentine belt - Taurus 93 3.8L

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  #1  
Old 11-08-02, 12:19 PM
petermagnet
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Question Replacing serpentine belt - Taurus 93 3.8L

I tried to replace serpentine belt for 1993 3.8L Taurus. I tried to follow the instruction on Chilton's manual. It says

1. Insert a 1/2" breaker bar into the squire hole in the tensioner
2. Rotate the tensioner clockwise and remove the belt.

This sounds easy and simple. But I could not figure out how it works and what I am supposed to be exactly doing. I would appreciate giving me some clue if anyone knows how to do this. Thanks in advance.

Peter
 
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  #2  
Old 11-08-02, 01:59 PM
bigpoppax2
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Peter,
What you need to do is find the tensioner pulley, it's the one that doesn't look as if it drives anything. It's sole purpose is to keep the correct tension on the serpintine belt even as the belt grows and expands with age.

Once this pulley is found there should be a square hole in the center of the pully. Insert the ratchet or breaker bar here. What you will doing is releasing the tension off of the belt where it can be removed.

Make sure you have a picture in your manual, or under your hood to the correct routing of the belt before removal.

It's just a simple remove and replace after that. just make the last pulley you put the belt on a pully on top that is easliy reached when putting pressure on the tensioner. That way you can have enough slack in the belt so you can get the belt on the pulley.

HTH
 
  #3  
Old 11-08-02, 02:09 PM
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Try looking up the procedure at this link:

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Manual%...delLookup.html

Copy and paste the entire url into your browser address block.


Serpentine belts on front drive cars can be a bit of a pain because they are crammed up against the fender well in most cases.
1. Locate the tensioner. This will be a pulley not attached to an acccessory. Sometimes there are two - one tensioner and one idler; ignore the idler, it has a fixed mounting.

2. The tensioner will have a 1/2" square hole in it (some tensioners just have a hex head that takes a socekt or wrench.

3. Insert a 1/2" drive breaker bar in the hole and rotate in the direction called for. This will relieve tension on the belt.

4. Once you have the tension relieved, remove the belt from one or more of the accessory pulleys. This is a two-handed or two person job, as you have to maintain pressure on the breaker bar until you get the belt partly removed.

5. Once you have the belt off a pulley or two you can release the pressure on the tensioner. Leave the brekaer bar attached to the tensioner as it is sometimes hard to remove because the tensioner tries to swivel to a point that makes it hard to remove.

6. Remove belt and install new one leaving off one or more accessories that can be easily accessed.

7. Rotate tensioner again and complete putting the belt on the accessories and the tensioner.

8. Release pressure on the tensioner.

9. Double check that the belt is sitting properly on the pulleys; if it is not the belt may jump off or fail.
 
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Old 11-08-02, 02:12 PM
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Guess I was typing too slow, bigpoppax2 beat me to the answer.

Last tip - When routing the new belt, pulleys with ribs in them get the ribbed side of the belt. Smooth pulleys (the idler and the tensioner) get the smooth side of the belt.
 
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Old 11-08-02, 02:15 PM
bigpoppax2
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MUAHAHAHAHA (My best Dr. Evil Laugh)
 
  #6  
Old 11-08-02, 03:46 PM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Very good advice from both of these guys
 
  #7  
Old 11-09-02, 11:46 AM
petermagnet
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Question Breaker bar

Thanks to HTH and The_Tow_Guy. It was very nice of you, gentlemen. Following your advice, I took a closer look at the belt and pulleys.

What kind of breaker bar do I need? Is it some kind of right angle wrench with long handle? My regular wrench would not even go into the space near the tensioner pulley. So I may need some kind of low profile 1/2" square wrench. Kragen's did not have it. Any idea what kind of tool I need and a place to get it even if it is a mail order place?

Thanks a lot.
Peter
 
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Old 11-09-02, 12:51 PM
bigpoppax2
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This is the only picture I could find of one. I would go to Sears and buy a craftsman (lifetime warr.)

Anyway so you'll know what we are referring to :

http://www.hand-tools-power-tools.co...reaker_bar.htm
 
  #9  
Old 11-09-02, 05:28 PM
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If memory serves me, the belt on that car takes some work to get off because of how close the pulleys sit to the inside of the fender well on that side of the engine compartment. Work patiently; it's one of those jobs that may look a little daunting (memorizing how the old belt is routed helps, the diagram under the hood isn't always the easiest thing to understand), but once you're done it'll be, "hey, that wasn't really so bad after all".

tow guy
San Jose resident
1993-95
 
  #10  
Old 11-10-02, 05:20 AM
bigpoppax2
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Petermagnet you had said in an earlier post that you wanted to thank HTH and the tow guy. Just for future reference HTH at the end of a do it yourself type post usually means Hope This Helps.

My names actually Joe, but I wouldn't want anyone to confuse me for the moderator Joe F.

Nonetheless I hope you get your belt changed ok.
 
  #11  
Old 11-10-02, 02:44 PM
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I can certainly understand why you wouldn't want to be confused with Joe Cool!!! LMAO

And I thought HTH meant (H)it it with (T)he (H)ammer; it is a Ford after all.
 
  #12  
Old 11-10-02, 03:19 PM
Joe_F
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Talking

Alright you two, cut it out

Or else, I'll give you a couple of 3.8's with some head gasket problems.

(Like getting snow in the winter. LOL)
 
  #13  
Old 11-10-02, 03:52 PM
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3.8 & head gasket problem; isn't that an oxymoron?
 
  #14  
Old 11-10-02, 05:12 PM
Joe_F
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Guilty by association. Lol.

Ford 3.8L=head gasket problems .
 
  #15  
Old 11-11-02, 04:01 PM
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On my tbird 3.8L the tensioner you are talking about is pass side, toward the middle to bottom of the motor. Not sure how diff your car is, but I was able to get your standard breaker bar on it. SImple 1 minute job-not like those damn 9 month head gaskets.
 
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