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code 54


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01-14-03, 01:33 PM   #1  
code 54

While driving on the freeway i got a hard check eng light. I pulled the code 54 which in my book says EGR or fuel pump circut for 3 liter engines. are these codes the same for all GM's? Could someone explain what goes wrong with these parts that would cause a code? The light has flickered a couple times in the past few days. The truck seems to run ok still. I have an 89 full size blazer with 350cid, TBI.

 
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01-14-03, 03:53 PM   #2  
Joe_F
From batauto.com (Of Knuckles' fame):

#54 Fuel pump voltage was not present at fuel pump sense line for 2 seconds after the ECM has sent the fuel pump on command.(Low Voltage)

Knuckles: That's an excellent VIN # code breakdown you give . A couple of slight corrections:

Missing 5.0 vin Y carb from 86-90. Should be the same as the 86-87 5.0 vin 9 you show. The vin 9 is simply a Hurst Olds/high zoot version of the LV2 5.0Y as used in my Delta 88.

Also, there's no '88 vin 7 (excepting a Cadillac, which you show a separate listing for). You mean the Grand National/Buick 3.8 vin 7 which was used from 1986 to 1987 and then in 1989 on the Turbo Trans Am 20th Anniversary . There is no 1988 iteration.

 
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01-14-03, 04:24 PM   #3  
so what are the common problems linked with this code? Is the fuel pump on its last legs or does the problem normally show in the electrical system?
I did look through the listed sites, I was going off 2 pieces of info. The other being a haynes code book, which was not as specific, so I just asked the question...

 
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01-14-03, 05:49 PM   #4  
I have no idea what Joe is mumbling about a VIN? Must be the full moon? I believe that you might have an EGR circuit failure...I think this has 3 solenoids that the computer picks to test EGR flow and that your #2 solenoid is bad, wiring or vacuum hose problems.


Results for code: 54

Manufacturer Description
Chevrolet (Truck)=EGR #2 Problem or Fuel Pump Circuit (Low Voltage) or Shorted Mixture Control Solenoid Feedback Carburetor System

 
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01-14-03, 06:45 PM   #5  
Joe is talking about 1/2 of the info I gathered and Steve is talking about the other 1/2 I was talking about finding. Between the two problems, how do I figure out which is the REAL problem? Because I don't get a HARD check eng light(the light stayed off the rest of the day after i restarted the engine), I assume electrical checks on components may not produce any results. Before I go, which/what is the #2 solenoid? Are there any other checks I can do on the fuel pump more than a pressure check? Would a computer be able to hunt down the problem better than a piece of wire in the A/B test plugs?


Last edited by 89blaze; 01-15-03 at 10:00 AM.
 
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01-15-03, 10:01 AM   #6  
Clear your code by removing the two ECM fuses for a few seconds. Drive the truck and see if you code again.
If it codes...
Could be that you have a loose vacuum hose or the EGR valve is starting to fail. Check your vacuum hoses from the EGR valve (behind to the left of the TBI) back through the EGR solinoid (left side of TBI) and then back to the front underneath the throttle body.
If these are fine, use a hand vacuum pump and connect to the EGR valve. See if it holds a vacuum. If not, the valve is bad. If it holds write back and I'll look up the tests for the EGR solinoid. I can't remember it right now.

 
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01-15-03, 10:25 AM   #7  
Joe_F
Stevo:

Batauto's technical area had some revisions that I wanted to bring to Knuckles' attention.

 
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01-15-03, 08:39 PM   #8  
I pulled the fuses like you suggested. Did not get any more eng lights today. I checked all the hoses to the EGR valve and they seemed good. Still have to find my vacuum pump and test it. Thanks for the help, hopefully the problem will stay gone.

 
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01-16-03, 10:17 PM   #9  
I wouldn't worry too much about it unless it codes again. My worker is a '89 Burb and it gets a gremlin in the ECM every now and then.

 
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01-19-03, 07:20 PM   #10  
Problem back

I thought I was out of the woods until today. I was in a parking lot at slow speed when the engine stumbled and the check eng light came on. I had my jumper wire and tried to get the code right away. I got no code except 12. Could this be a sign of the ECM or the ECU going out??? Can a high dollar scanner get more info to help me out??? Does GM sell a magic wand to fix this?

 
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01-20-03, 04:35 AM   #11  
Joe_F
Check 12 in the autolibrary or batauto.com website.

You can have an ECM checked out before buying one to be sure your old one is bad.

Check all your grounds and connections closely.

 
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01-20-03, 07:56 AM   #12  
Friens of mine had similar problems on '89 Burb 4 X 4(wish I had that one!). What happened was that he was getting a hard or sometimes soft code while driving. When he'd go to check it he'd just read 12 (ECM working).
Wound up that there was a problem in his fuse box. The ECM fuse on the left ( I can't remember if it's the "A" or "B" fuse) was losing power when the key was turned off. It became apparent when we repaired it that while he was driving, bumps were causing intermittant power failures to the ECM and was causing the codes to appear.
This may be something to check on yours.

 
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01-21-03, 11:22 AM   #13  
Dirty Dan, can you help me out on the EGR solinoid please. I am still having the random check eng light problem and have checked all the vacuum lines for leaks and the EGR valve for function. I am not sure where to go next except to a shop to spend all my money. Anyone who might have a suggestion, please give it. Anything.

 
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01-21-03, 11:40 AM   #14  
Have you been to this link for some advice?
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...2ch04_idx.html

 
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01-22-03, 02:09 AM   #15  
I'll get the Solenoid test info and post them tomorrow. Quickly though, it should not allow a vacuum through at an idle. If you are having a rough idle, that is a symptom of the EGR valve being open at idle. Cause could be carbon build up on valve seat or soleniod allowing vacuum to pull valve open. There are other tests to see if solenoid is opening when it should, but my book's at home and I'm at work right now.

 
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01-22-03, 03:46 AM   #16  
Joe_F
I agree with Dan.

 
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01-22-03, 02:20 PM   #17  
Ok, with all your help, I have checked out all components in my truck that would cause my problem. PROBLEM-truck runs fine except for the intermitant stumble (like the ingnition shuts down for a split second) while driving and while sitting still. In the past few days, the symptoms don't change but the codes vary. It started with the code 54 which has not come back. Next was a code 42 (EST circut) which has not returned. I also got a few check eng lights with no codes. This morning the light came on while the truck was at idle and the engine started running rough. I shut the eng off and restarted, resulting in no light and good running again. I shut it down and checked for codes and got nothing. This problem has continued through a new distributor and checks of all components that have coded or in the system. All wires and connectors have been cleaned and checked. The only thing left that I can think of is the computer. I am thinking it may have a bug in it that causes the stumble. I suspect there might be a little water in the fuel, but if it is bad, there would be a more constant stumble and not once a day. Any more ideas before I get the computer checked (can you do that?) or replaced. Would the PROM have to be reset? Again, I really appreciate all the help on this.

 
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01-23-03, 01:28 PM   #18  
Sounds like your losing dc power while driving. First place to check on these old 350's is the battery to solenoid conection. That is fairly difficult to get to and if you still have the OEM battery cable, it has a tang (for proper alignment) which when turned wrong, will make you think you've tightend the connection properly.
From there, trace from the starter up to the center of your firewall. There is a junction block on the right center top of the firewall. Pull all of the wires from the posts, clean the corrosion from the connectors and put them back tightly. Third place to check is the ECM ground wires. These are connected to the block under the left bolt of the water intake neck on your intake manifold. There is also a ground strap (which affects the ECM) that is located on the firewall just right of your AC evaporator housing. This is also grounded to the intake manifold (under bolt where connected to the head).
Last, remove and check the contacts on the ignition switch. The switch itself is located on top of the steering column under the dash. It is not too difficult to remove if you drop your steering column down by removing the two 5/8" nuts which hold it up. These are located from under the steering column and can be easily reached after you take off the access covers directly under the steering column. Before you let the column down, shift the transmission into 1. This will allow you to remove (just pry off towards the dash) the clip that connects the shift indicator to the shift collar. If you drop the column with out pulling off the clip, the wire will break and the shift indicator will no longer work. Anyway, the connectors on these old ignition switches commonly overheat and corrode.
When all else fails, take the truck to a shop which has what we call a flight recorder. This is a fancy scanner which actually graphs the scanner's readings while the vehicle is driven. Be prepared to leave your truck for a couple of days ( it will never code when you want it to). They should be able to pinpoint what's happening.
Be sure to let us know what you/they find!

 
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01-23-03, 05:55 PM   #19  
Joe_F
Great advice from Dan. Right on the money.

 
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01-24-03, 10:40 AM   #20  
Thankyou, I will let you know what happens.

 
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01-25-03, 07:11 PM   #21  
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Originally posted by Joe_F
Knuckles: That's an excellent VIN # code breakdown you give . A couple of slight corrections:

Missing 5.0 vin Y carb from 86-90. Should be the same as the 86-87 5.0 vin 9 you show. The vin 9 is simply a Hurst Olds/high zoot version of the LV2 5.0Y as used in my Delta 88.

Also, there's no '88 vin 7 (excepting a Cadillac, which you show a separate listing for). You mean the Grand National/Buick 3.8 vin 7 which was used from 1986 to 1987 and then in 1989 on the Turbo Trans Am 20th Anniversary . There is no 1988 iteration. [/B]
Since I compiled the trouble codes pages and put them all together, I thought I would address your post.
We chose not to list the VIN Y carb, because it is a feedback carb and the codes are reduntant to some of the other listings.
As for the no 88, doesn't matter. If they don't have that VIN number, then it isn't a problem.

After you do about 500 or so trouble codes pages, a whole bunch of technical pages and several hundred other pages, one or two things get by you. Some, you overlook, like the 88 listed when there isn't one.

 
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01-25-03, 07:54 PM   #22  
Joe_F
True---but you list the vin 9 5.0 liter which is the same thing as the 5.0 vin Y

(both have feedback carburetors). The vin 9 motor is a HO version of the Y motor. There's about 10 parts difference between the two (heads, intake, carburetor, etc). The 9 motor is mostly Hurst Olds applications, but Cadillac used it in the Fleetwood Brougham from 1986 to 1990 as an armored car/commercial chassis/limo option .


Put the 5.0Y with the 9 and it's done

 
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01-27-03, 07:07 PM   #23  
0patience
Ha ha, Good idea.
I'll put that on the list of things to do.
That list is getting pretty long though.
Someone needs to figure out how to make shorter lists.
We have another 50 pages of codes to try and get listed one of these days. Unfortunately, about the time we'll get caught up, a new year of trouble codes will come out.

Seriously, thanks for the input. It all helps.

 
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02-05-03, 03:33 PM   #24  
FIXED

Thanks for all the help with this. I finally got the problem to show up when I needed it to. The fuel pump relay was shuting down every once in a while. I had tested the relay once and it checked good. Today, I switched the TCC and fuel relay and went for a drive. Within 1/2 an hour, the tranny wouldn't shift up. Relay replaced and no more problems. I hope the "run like crap" fairy stays away for a while...

 
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02-06-03, 06:44 PM   #25  
Joe_F
Good job.

 
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