transmission flush
#1
Sir Ug
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Atlanta, GA
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transmission flush
I have a 1994 Saturn SC2 -5 speed. Approximately 60,000 miles ago I drained and replaced my transmission oil by removing the drain plug that is located on my transmission case (no pan). Even thou this car is a manual transmission, it took Automatic transmission oil. After the oil was all drained I put back the drain plug and I think I tighten it too much because a very small leak (drip) occurred around on the case next to the drain plug hole. I noticed a small hairline crack on the case starting at the plug thread and 1/2 inch long. I repaired this cracked by sealing it with an aluminum forming putty that turned rock hard after a few hours and it worked like a dream. The putty was put all around the drain plug so now I can not remove the plug anymore.
Now its time to replace the transmission fluid so how can I do it. Can it be sucked out of the fill port? Who can do it? Or can I?
Now its time to replace the transmission fluid so how can I do it. Can it be sucked out of the fill port? Who can do it? Or can I?
#7
Fact: Transmission fluid and filter changes are much cheaper and easier than transmissions
Fact: Changing your transmission fluid and filter regularly keeps the works clean, cool and efficient.
Fact: Vehicles with bad transmissions often wind up on tow trucks such as yours going to junkyards or tranny repair shops for new transmissions.
Fact: Vehicles with bad transmissions (ala Taurus/Sable) often aren't worth much with a good running engine and a shot tranny.
Haven't found a con to changing your tranny fluid on time yet. LOL
Fact: Changing your transmission fluid and filter regularly keeps the works clean, cool and efficient.
Fact: Vehicles with bad transmissions often wind up on tow trucks such as yours going to junkyards or tranny repair shops for new transmissions.
Fact: Vehicles with bad transmissions (ala Taurus/Sable) often aren't worth much with a good running engine and a shot tranny.
Haven't found a con to changing your tranny fluid on time yet. LOL
#13
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Louisiana
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JT-
Like the guys said you should be able to suck it out of the fill port. As to removing the plug, you should be able to use a small die grinder like a Dremel to free the plug from the putty. If you need to re-putty after it's out, I would use a cardboard or paper plug in the hole while the putty sets. Anything that would give you a clear shot at the threaded hole...
Depending on the thread size, you might use a bolt or pipe nipple that is well greased so that the putty won't set up on it.
Like the guys said you should be able to suck it out of the fill port. As to removing the plug, you should be able to use a small die grinder like a Dremel to free the plug from the putty. If you need to re-putty after it's out, I would use a cardboard or paper plug in the hole while the putty sets. Anything that would give you a clear shot at the threaded hole...
Depending on the thread size, you might use a bolt or pipe nipple that is well greased so that the putty won't set up on it.
#14
Joe
Gm's with the Dexron shift smoother cause their is "slip" built in the the fluid. This is due to the make-up of the friction modifiers they use.
In performance or racing trans in GM's they use type F fluid which their friction modifiers are more on the "sticky" side.
Ford's problems started when they switched to Dexron.
Smooth shifts=slip=wear
Firm shift=no slip=no wear
Same as standard shift car, "ride the clutch" taking off and shifting and it will be smooth. The clutch may not last long though!
Our driving public conceive firm shifts as a problem. Sloppy, loose shifts are the ones that they should be concerned about.
Larry
Gm's with the Dexron shift smoother cause their is "slip" built in the the fluid. This is due to the make-up of the friction modifiers they use.
In performance or racing trans in GM's they use type F fluid which their friction modifiers are more on the "sticky" side.
Ford's problems started when they switched to Dexron.
Smooth shifts=slip=wear
Firm shift=no slip=no wear
Same as standard shift car, "ride the clutch" taking off and shifting and it will be smooth. The clutch may not last long though!
Our driving public conceive firm shifts as a problem. Sloppy, loose shifts are the ones that they should be concerned about.
Larry
#15
Larry:
Good points. But, most folks drive on the street . The world's finest (Jaguar, Rolls Royce, Bentley, etc) come to GM for transmissions (the THM400 and now its electronic relative), not Ford.
Even BMW bought a GM tranny or two over the years. It's due to their reliability and the way they shift---flawlessly mile after mile.
Your points are well taken though.
Good points. But, most folks drive on the street . The world's finest (Jaguar, Rolls Royce, Bentley, etc) come to GM for transmissions (the THM400 and now its electronic relative), not Ford.
Even BMW bought a GM tranny or two over the years. It's due to their reliability and the way they shift---flawlessly mile after mile.
Your points are well taken though.
#16
I wonder, in this 4.5 degree weather, how the ATF filled manual transmissions feel compared with the motor oil ones-
My standard oiled transmission felt decidedly molasses-like on startup, until it warmed up some; I would think the ATF ones wouldn't show it as much.
My standard oiled transmission felt decidedly molasses-like on startup, until it warmed up some; I would think the ATF ones wouldn't show it as much.
#17
Is the more commonly available Dexron III compatible with Dexron II spec'd auto trannies? If so, would it be acceptable to mix the two without a complete flush?
My tranny has a drain plug for fluid change, which should make it easy, but since the torque converter won't be drained, there would be a fairly significant amount of the old fluid in there. Otherwise I can do multiple drain/fill/run sessions to clear out as much of the old stuff as possible.
My tranny has a drain plug for fluid change, which should make it easy, but since the torque converter won't be drained, there would be a fairly significant amount of the old fluid in there. Otherwise I can do multiple drain/fill/run sessions to clear out as much of the old stuff as possible.