1996 Dodge Ram will not start

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  #1  
Old 02-08-03, 06:51 AM
JAllen72
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1996 Dodge Ram will not start

I have a 1996 Dodge Ram half ton, 4x4, automatic, 318. This truck was running good prior to yesterday, except it needed plugs. I brought it in to the garage yesterday, was going to make a quick run to do an errand and went to start the motor, it started but was running very poorly, loping, not hitting on all cylinders. It run like this for about 15 seconds and quit. I tryed to restart it and it would intemittently fire but would not run. Then after a time I could smell the gas and assumed it was flooded. So I waited maybe 15 minutes and tryed to start again. This time it would not fire at all and the smell of gas was gone. So I decided to change the plugs as I had purchased them already and tryed to start again after putting in new plugs and still would not fire. There is no smell of gas present when cranking over engine. I checked the fuel pump fuse it appears fine. My next step is to check to see if the fuel pump is operating and then pull a plug and check for spark. While I am doing that I am hoping to hear some suggestions from you. Thank-you . Jim
 
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  #2  
Old 02-08-03, 07:08 AM
Joe_F
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You're on the right track---must check the basics.

Print out my "Basics" post below and take it to the truck. Let us know if you lack fuel, spark, air or any of these. That's the key to figuring out what's going on.
 
  #3  
Old 02-08-03, 07:57 AM
JAllen72
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Ok, I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump whir when the key was turned on and I could not. I also checked to see if I had spark at a spark plug and I did. So I am thnking there is a problem with fuel. So I checked the fuel sytem ASD relay and feel it should be replaced because when I check for continuity between terminals 87 and 30 there was none. By using jumper wires connected to 86 and 85 from battery, and then checking for continuity again at 87 and 30 there should be continuity now and there still was none. But what really confuses me is that when I check for voltage at terminal 30 there is voltage present however my meter is slow to show 12.7 volts but it does eventually, like in 5 seconds or so. When I checked for voltage at the 86 terminal I have voltage all the time. The book says it should only be present when the key is on to this terminal. I am confused. The fuse to this panel check out as good. I think I will replace both the fuse and the ASD relay as the fuse can not be that expensive anyway, but can you tell me why I have power at the 86 terminal even with the key off? Is this a problem? Thanks, Jim Ok, I replaced both the fuse and the relay, still no fire. My next asumption is a bad fuel pump. What do you think? I am not sure how to check the fuel pump without removal. It is not easily accessable as it is on top of the fuel tank tight to the frame. The tank is also full of fuel so I must figure out a way to get the fuel out before lowering tank. Any good suggestions? I tried sliding a 1\2 inch plastic hose down to the tank but it gets caught on its way down. Before I go to all the work and expense of replacing fuel pump I would like to be sure this is the problem. What do you think?
 

Last edited by JAllen72; 02-08-03 at 09:38 AM.
  #4  
Old 02-08-03, 10:41 AM
Joe_F
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If there is power to the fuel pump, you can check it with a pressure gauge to see if it has pressure or not. You are on the right track here.

You can use an eletric fuel pump to try to snake out the old fuel. Be careful and no sparks or sources of ignition. Shield your hands, eyes and skin.
 
  #5  
Old 02-08-03, 12:27 PM
JAllen72
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Well I disconnected fuel line at the injector rail there is no pressure on line or in tank, there also was no gas when I turned the engine over. My guess is a bad fuel pump. Do you agree? A real pain to drop that fuel tank. I am hoping I can drop it down far enough to disconnect lines at the pump. I was able to get most of the gas out of tank after disconnecting fuel fill hose. Let me know what you think or if you know any tricks for removing that fuel tank. I can get it loose but the real problem is getting the fuel pump lines disconnected, if you have any suggestions they would be appreciated. Thanks Jim
 
  #6  
Old 02-08-03, 02:07 PM
Joe_F
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Double check and verify by checking the pressure with a fuel pressure gauge to be sure it's your problem!

Check autolibrary.org below for some ideas.
 
  #7  
Old 02-08-03, 02:08 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 431
No real tricks, just have to lower the tank slightly to get to the connections, after that pull the tank. Make sure you use a good quality fuel pump module as some of the cheap ones just dont perform or last worth a hoot! New module should come wth a in tank strainer/sock, if not pick one up and also replace the inline fuel filter. You might have to reuse the pressure relief valve off the old module.


1993-96 5.9L, 1994-96 3.9L/5.2L/8.0L and 1996 2.5L Models

Perform the fuel pressure release procedure described previously in this section.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the fuel tank from the truck.
Note the direction of the fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator, the pressure relief/rollover valve and the pump electrical connector. These should all be pointed to the driver's side. Tag any lines for replacement, if necessary.
Remove the locknut threaded into the fuel tank. The fuel pump module will spring up when the locknut is removed.
Remove the module from the fuel tank.

To install:

Use a new gasket and position the fuel pump module in the opening. The fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator, the pressure relief/rollover valve and the fuel pump electrical connector should all be pointed to the driver's side of the vehicle when this unit is properly installed.
Position a new locknut over the top of the fuel pump module, then tighten the locknut.
Install the fuel tank.
 
  #8  
Old 02-09-03, 05:48 AM
JAllen72
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As I had thought disconnecting the fuel lines and the power plug on top of the tank are a real night mare. I can reach them ( barely) but can not figure out how they release. I do not want to drop tank too far for fear of kinking gas lines or breaking the power supply. I was able to get the little plasic tab on top of the power supply connector to come out but the connectors will not seperate. I have not a clue as to how the quick connector on the gas lines work, I have never seen one like it. If I can not figure that out I will be forced to take to repair shop and pay the big bucks. (sigh) If you know how these connectors work on the truck I would appreciate some insite. It appears to have the two tab quick connect fitting on one of the lines. Thank-you. Jim
 

Last edited by JAllen72; 02-09-03 at 06:14 AM.
  #9  
Old 02-09-03, 06:32 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 431
Try going to this link for some help.
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...7CH05_IDX.HTML
 
  #10  
Old 02-09-03, 07:36 AM
JAllen72
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Thanks, been there done that. The real problem is not having the vehicle on a hoist. So trying to work off a hard cold cement floor with very limited space to work. You all have been very helpful though and I do appreciate that. Jim
 
  #11  
Old 02-09-03, 08:40 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
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On pickup trucks i usually loosen or remove the bed bolts and lift the bed up enough to access the tank unit.Usually only 4 to 6 nouts to loosen,unplug tailamp pigtail and disconnect filler hose at the truck bed attatchment area.I usually lift the bed up enough to put a four by four piece of wood between the bed and the frame.
 
  #12  
Old 02-09-03, 08:42 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 247
Also i forgot to mention sometimes you can tap on the tank with a rubber mallet while someone tries cranking the engine and this will jar the fuel pump and if it then runs you'll know for sure it's the pump.
 
  #13  
Old 02-09-03, 12:33 PM
JAllen72
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Fordtech, I want to thank-you for your suggestions, rapping the tank with a mallet did jar the pump enough to temporarly start the engine, it didn't run for long though and quit. Also by raising the truck up on jack stands allowed me enough room to sit under there and disconnect lines with relative ease. Got the tank out now just a matter of replacing old pump and putting back together. Thanks guys, I think it might just work! Jim
 
  #14  
Old 02-09-03, 01:44 PM
Joe_F
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Replace the pump with an OEM Chrysler unit. As I recall there were various supersessions and changes from the original pump.
 
  #15  
Old 02-10-03, 05:05 AM
JAllen72
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All back together and runs great once again. Till next time, JIM
 
  #16  
Old 02-11-03, 08:42 AM
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Posts: 247
Glad to hear you got it going and thank you for updating us on the progress you made!!!!!!!!!
 
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