1993 mercury villager
#1
1993 mercury villager
we have a 93 villager and it has a ticking noise when idleing and on acceleration, also when you go on the highway the tach goes up high and it has no power. we recently took it to a repair shop and they told us it needed a tune up. so we had a mechanic replace the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and fuel filter.
and guess what we still have the problem.
any help any one can give us would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
and guess what we still have the problem.
any help any one can give us would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
#2
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from the sounds of it you may have a restricted exhaust might take it by an exhaust shop and have it checked for a restriction, often when the exhaust sytem is restricted it will melt the egr sensor hose or blow it off the fitting which would cause an exhaust leak under the hood that you may be hearing.
common symptoms of restricted exhaust is no power and usually the transmission will shift later than normal wich would cause the tach to read higher.
another possibility is the transmission may be slipping and the noise could be a lifter or some other internal engine component but i would start by having the exhaust checked for a restriction if it checks ok run it by a transmission shop and have a mechanic test drive it.
common symptoms of restricted exhaust is no power and usually the transmission will shift later than normal wich would cause the tach to read higher.
another possibility is the transmission may be slipping and the noise could be a lifter or some other internal engine component but i would start by having the exhaust checked for a restriction if it checks ok run it by a transmission shop and have a mechanic test drive it.
#6
hey everyone just wanted to let you know what we found
after taking it to a mechanic i mentioned the exhaust to him and he told me that it couldnt be in the exhaust because it dosent always do it like when you are just driving around town. so he told me that it needs an o2 sensor. skeptical i told him no thanks i was going to get the exhaust checked. so went to a different mechanic he told me i have a major exhaust leak the gasket
that goes from the manifold to the head needed to be replaced
and i have a stud bolt broke off in the manifold. so as we speek it is being fixed. he also told me that the guy who told me i needed the o2 sensor was full of it because you cant diagnose an o2 sensor when you have an exhaust leak.
so thanks alot for the advice you saved me from spending another 200.00 on an o2 sensor. i hope the exhaust and bolt solve my problems.
thanks again
after taking it to a mechanic i mentioned the exhaust to him and he told me that it couldnt be in the exhaust because it dosent always do it like when you are just driving around town. so he told me that it needs an o2 sensor. skeptical i told him no thanks i was going to get the exhaust checked. so went to a different mechanic he told me i have a major exhaust leak the gasket
that goes from the manifold to the head needed to be replaced
and i have a stud bolt broke off in the manifold. so as we speek it is being fixed. he also told me that the guy who told me i needed the o2 sensor was full of it because you cant diagnose an o2 sensor when you have an exhaust leak.
so thanks alot for the advice you saved me from spending another 200.00 on an o2 sensor. i hope the exhaust and bolt solve my problems.
thanks again
#7
I am glad you found out the problem -- exhaust leak due to a broken stud(s). The cost of that kind of repair is not cheap! Since they will take out the exhaust manifold, it would be good to replace all the studs at that time. Nissan/Ford should have recalled on the broken studs business.
T.Y.
T.Y.
#8
ok had the repairs done and guess what it didnt work
any other ideas?
when i first took it out for a drive it seemed to be fine then i turned around went to a different road got up to speed then started losing power. same thing. through all this the check engine light never came on. do you think it could be a computer problem?
any other ideas?
when i first took it out for a drive it seemed to be fine then i turned around went to a different road got up to speed then started losing power. same thing. through all this the check engine light never came on. do you think it could be a computer problem?
#12
ok heres the deal we had the fuel pressure checked today turned out fine. the guy told me that he thought it was the cat converter
so he took it off and cleaned it out and it didnt help.
would the cat converter be the part of the exhaust that would be restricted? or is there another part that we need to have checked?
thanks in advance for your help
so he took it off and cleaned it out and it didnt help.
would the cat converter be the part of the exhaust that would be restricted? or is there another part that we need to have checked?
thanks in advance for your help
#13
Time for a new mechanic. You cannot "clean out" a catalytic converter. An exhaust backpressure gauge would easily determine if there is a blockage in the exhaust.
Bring the vehicle into the dealer where they have the proper equipment to diagnose the problem. Also, the converter will have to be replaced if it has now been gutted out---that is illegal.
Bring the vehicle into the dealer where they have the proper equipment to diagnose the problem. Also, the converter will have to be replaced if it has now been gutted out---that is illegal.
#15
Aye. Go back to him and ask him what he did. If he says he gutted the inside of the cat to "test" it, that is not legal nor the right way to test it.
Question him why a temperature probe or a backpressure gauge wasn't used. That IS the proper way to determine if there is a converter problem. Also ask him why you were charged for something that didn't fix the problem!
Question him why a temperature probe or a backpressure gauge wasn't used. That IS the proper way to determine if there is a converter problem. Also ask him why you were charged for something that didn't fix the problem!
#16
hey thanks i will for sure ask him what he did. and i think i should get my money back because we un hooked the converter and muffler and drove it it runs great besides it is a little loud.
so we are going to replace from the converter back and i think we
will be fine. however if we told him to check it for a restriction and
he gutted the converter how come he didn't find the restriction?
therefore i really think i should get my money back!
also when he put it back together he welded it. any suggestions
how to get it back off? i am going to do the work myself this time.
thanks alot for all your help
so we are going to replace from the converter back and i think we
will be fine. however if we told him to check it for a restriction and
he gutted the converter how come he didn't find the restriction?
therefore i really think i should get my money back!
also when he put it back together he welded it. any suggestions
how to get it back off? i am going to do the work myself this time.
thanks alot for all your help
#17
No, have the work done by a good muffler shop. Exhaust work is a pain without air tools/and/or a torch. Not worth it. You'll get very frustrated.
If the vehicle runs well with the converter disconnected, the converter likely is clogged, however, you must find the reason it got that way (out of tune engine, cooling system issues, etc) or the new converter will meet the same fate!
If the vehicle runs well with the converter disconnected, the converter likely is clogged, however, you must find the reason it got that way (out of tune engine, cooling system issues, etc) or the new converter will meet the same fate!
#18
Cat failures are quite common in vehicles in the 10 year old range. I would be glad I got 10 years out of an exhaust. And I also think you should report the mechanic to the Better Business Burro, or your cities similar agency. Your tune up was due so that was not wasted money. I have seen moisture kill more cats than any other reason. Joe is right about doing exhaust work you self, unless you have a good shop it better to take it to some one else. At the very least you need a heavy duty drill, grinder, clamps, and a welder to do it right.
#19
Weld:
All of my cars are 10+ years old on the original cats . They do not "go bad" except for getting stuffed/overheating (which is an engine problem), or getting physically damaged/rotting out (rare).
A converter could last the life of the car if there are no problems .
All of my cars are 10+ years old on the original cats . They do not "go bad" except for getting stuffed/overheating (which is an engine problem), or getting physically damaged/rotting out (rare).
A converter could last the life of the car if there are no problems .
#20
Wow, more people should have Joes luck. Around here moisture rusts out the cores and causes the baffling to collapse or the carbon deposits cause restrictions we use to see a lot of this, but I am hoping the ones the cars are shipping with now are of better qualtiy. Most of the time we do an autopsy on dead exhaust components. At my current job we see quite a few melt because of sucking water up them witch turns to steam and melts them. But I doubt that much of a problem for people except in off road environments. I have found that a lot of cat failures also come form the worn exhaust valves or running rich that cause the cat to get real hot and melt. The Palladium, Platinum, and Rhodium in a cat that actually cause it function do ware out and quit functioning. But not many people with out an emissions testing license know that.