Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Stranded


romod's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 200

03-10-03, 09:07 PM   #1  
Stranded

My "86" Reliant SE 2.2 Liter in-line 4cyl hesitated and died today in heavy traffic, luckily i coasted off the roadway out of traffic.When i tried to start it back up it makes a slightly different sound but sounds like it's turning over but will not fire.It has about 95k on it.I have a strong feeling the timing belt broke.Ive been hoping it would get me by until 100k then get a new one but that went out the window.Is this the kind of engine that can be salvaged with a new belt or do i have to take it to the junk yard and sell it for scrap! My cousin broke one on a Pontiac Sunfire and they was able to fix hers,am i that lucky?

 
Sponsored Links
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

03-10-03, 10:03 PM   #2  
No prob! Not an interference engine, and not hard to fix. I imagine you are right about the belt, it's easy enough to check by popping the distributor cap off and watching the rotor while cranking.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
romod's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 200

03-11-03, 01:21 AM   #3  
Boy cheese you made my day! So i take it that if the rotor doesn't turn, the belt is bad,is that correct, I was wondering if there was an easy way to check that without having to tear all them pulleys off. Thanks!

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

03-11-03, 03:23 AM   #4  
Joe_F
Cheese is right. The belt is likely broken. The cranking will sound higher pitched and faster when the belt is wasted.

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

03-11-03, 10:09 PM   #5  
Yup, if the rotor doesn't turn then the belt is wiped out. You'll have to remove a few things, like the compressor bracket (unbolt it and strap it towards the front of the car to get it out of the way)and motor mount, and maybe a couple of other things in front of the timing belt cover. Remove the front right wheel, while the car is on a jack stand, pull the splash shield out from the wheel well, remove the motor mount right there in front of the timing belt cover while using a jack under the engine to relieve pressure from the mount, remove the crankshaft pulley, and pull the belt covers off. now you can change the belt. Pick up a haynes manual to get a picture of how all timing marks should line up, and how much tension to put on the timing belt tensioner.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
romod's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 200

03-11-03, 10:37 PM   #6  
Since it was broke down so far from my house i just had it towed to the nearest shop and fixed on the spot at a cost of 237$ and it was the belt that broke.Next time i'll have to get after it before my vehicles hit 90k. Thanks for all the input!

 
WeldGod's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 616

03-12-03, 12:04 AM   #7  
yes, you could have saved about 200$

 
romod's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 200

03-18-03, 12:38 PM   #8  
Well i had it out today and it almost left me stranded again.I went 2 or 3 miles into town shut it off and went into a store.When i came back out it sounded like the battery was almost dead when i tried to start it back up.Then it finally started and i noticed the temperature gage was way up over hot.Well luckily i made it back home and it wasn't steaming but i opened the hood and i could hear water seeping back into the resavoir.It doesn't miss but runs too hot!My only guess could be maybe they advanced the timing too far when they replaced the belt.Any other ideas?

 
romod's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 200

03-18-03, 02:28 PM   #9  
Well i think i found out what was wrong I noticed the alternator mounting bracket at the bottom was broken off where the bolt screws in and it looks like pop metal. The bottom radiator hose goes into this housing, i wish that doggone online manuel still worked as i might be able to replace it if i knew what it was called. I went to my library and they didn't have a manuel for my car.


Last edited by romod; 03-18-03 at 04:13 PM.
 
dragonl2ep's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

03-18-03, 05:57 PM   #10  
dragonl2ep
usualy the bottom radiator hos goes to the water pump and the upper radiator hose goes to the thermostat but u never know the way they make cars now and days the radiator hose could go to the fuel tank LOL sorry just some mechanical humor to get over the making of cars now have a great day

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

03-18-03, 09:19 PM   #11  
Joe_F
The autolibrary.org is back (for now)

Any manual would have done. Those 2.2 Chrysler engines are the same, body irrespective. Same crap, different badge.

Sounds like the bracket is wasted and the water pump was not turning. Hit the junkyard for a used setup and put a new belt.

 
romod's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 200

03-19-03, 01:32 PM   #12  
Does anybody know what that bottom mounting bracket is called and is it hard to replace.It looks like some kind of manifold with an aluminum color.I went to Autozone and they couldn't tell me much of anything.I used J.B weld to put it back on but i have a feeling it will leave me stranded again if it's not replaced.

 
WeldGod's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 616

03-19-03, 10:44 PM   #13  
Grab your tools, a sheet of card board, and a coke then head to a junkyard and find the pieces you need.

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

03-20-03, 06:51 AM   #14  
Joe_F
I agree.

 
Search this Thread