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ram 50


butterfingers's Avatar
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04-07-03, 04:15 PM   #1  
ram 50

I have a 89 dodge ram 50 but someone has changed the motor in it is a 2.6L. It sparks knocks pretty bad when its warm. I took the plugs out and they are white. What does this mean. I am going to get a new set of plugs and check the timing. I have a repair book and have refferd to it but the timing light i have doesnt have any way of getting between the boot and the spark plug. Can you give me some advice on what to do? Thanks
-Butterfingers-

 
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04-08-03, 05:17 AM   #2  
A white/gray plug could mean you have it right. An irregular chalky build up could mean oil is leaking in to the combustion chamber. A black pulg is most of the time means you are running to rich. If it is a bright white you are probably running, lean, hot, and you have too much timing advance.

 
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04-08-03, 06:32 AM   #3  
Joe_F
I agree with Weld. Is the motor the correct year for the vehicle? How about the computer and other equipment?

 
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04-08-03, 05:42 PM   #4  
thanks for the replys
I got a timing light and cheaked out the timing and it was right on. However the vaccum tube that runs the advance on the distributor wasnt sucking very hard and if you plugges it didnt make a difference. So we took the vaccum tube off the tee that goes to the distributor and stuck it on to the hose that supplies vaccum for the emissions control or whatever that thing is above the exahust manifold. This provided good vacum and changed the running so should i get a tee and take vaccume off that one and plug the other one? thanks again

 
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04-09-03, 03:03 AM   #5  
No, I would figure out why you donít have adequate vacuum. It might be ok for a temporary fix. Unless you can justify the change and know why you are doing it and what caused the original problem, then you are causing yourself more problems in the long run.

 
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04-09-03, 05:35 AM   #6  
Joe_F
I agree. Do not plug anything that shouldn't be. Get the factory vacuum diagram for your vehicle and make sure everything is where it should be. The underhood emission decal is a good guide.

Again, is the motor the original one?

 
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04-09-03, 04:42 PM   #7  
im not sure id this is the original engine or not. The numbers on the motor identification and the #'s on the plate under the hood match. However it looks like its got some kind of glue on it like it may have been switched bur im not really sure. I can give you the numbers if it would help. I looked in my repair manual but it doesnt list a 89 with a 2.6L engine. It is 4-wheel drive if that helps. I put a new set of plugs in it just since it probably needed a change. I took some of the vaccum hoses out and tried it again and know it seems to have good vaccum when you rev it up a little. I havnt had a chance to try it out yet so i dont know if it stopped the spark knocking. Thanks for the help
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04-10-03, 06:01 AM   #8  
Joe_F
Try to find out what year the motor is. I believe the 2.6 started later on, so it might be a cobble together job we are dealing with here .

 
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04-16-03, 01:34 PM   #9  
well i finnally got the right spark plugs after calling a dealer and going to a couple auto part stores. I found a pinch in one of the vaccum hoses from a zip tie and straightened it out. Now its got good vaccum and runs like a champ. Thanks for the help

 
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04-17-03, 07:00 AM   #10  
Joe_F
There you have it. The Basics once again .

 
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05-06-03, 04:13 PM   #11  
well maybe i spoke a little soon because it still has good vaccum but makes a cliking noise when starting up a hill or when you really give it some gas and it doesnt seem to do it until it is up to temp. I always assumed that it was spark knocking but one of my friends has the some problem with his caravan that also has a mitsubishi engine. A mechanic told him that it was the lifters sticking a little on thier way down. He also was told that using synthetic oil would help. it has a LOT os miles on it the odometer says 210k but the tires are a 215's and thier supposed to be 225's. I am not completly sure if its the original engine. The #'s on the block and the #'s in the engine compartment match but it looks like its got some kind of glue on it like it was pryed off and glued over another one. What do you guys think? Thanks

 
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05-06-03, 09:26 PM   #12  
After it's warm,pull over and plug the vacuum line to the distributor and reroadtest.If it doesn't knock,then you still have a spark knock concern.

 
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05-07-03, 06:03 AM   #13  
Joe_F
If it has an EGR valve, make sure the passages are clear and the valve works correctly.

 
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05-15-03, 12:27 PM   #14  
today it was knocking worse than usual so i pulled over and stuck a pencil in the vaccum hose and after that it didnt knock once. Should i take the egr valve off and iff i do how do i clean it and see if it is working? It only does it after it warms up too does this mean its my distributor or is it something else. Any advice is great thanks

 
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05-15-03, 01:31 PM   #15  
Joe_F
Sounds like the valve is wasted. What quality of fuel are you using? Try changing brands or stepping up a grade.

 
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05-15-03, 05:10 PM   #16  
i was using regular but quite a while ago i went to plus and it made a little difference but know it is bad again. How would i take the valve off and see if it is shot?
Thanks

 
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05-16-03, 06:09 AM   #17  
Joe_F
It's wasted, trust me . Running that badly it's probably stuffed with carbon.

Try cleaning it with WD40, but it's not likely to work right .

 
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05-16-03, 12:55 PM   #18  
i think im a little confused. Which valve is the egr valve. I think i was talking about the one on top of the distributor. But in my repair book it has it as the one on the manifold wich is apperently the right one. (you should know) And i took the vaccum hose off this one. So does the one by the manifold cause spark knocking or is there something wrong around the distributer? Thanks again for.

 
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05-16-03, 04:10 PM   #19  
Joe_F
The "valve" on the distributor is the vacuum advance. The one on the manifold is the EGR valve.

The repair book (if it's worth its salt) should have test procedures for either.

 
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