bucking, chugging, and stalling

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  #1  
Old 04-22-03, 02:07 PM
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bucking, chugging, and stalling

1992 Hyundai Excel. Maybe someone can help. my car is having problems bucking, chugging, and stalling. This doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes it works fine , and other times its terrible. Yesterday it worked fine on my way home. About an 1/2 hr. later I went out and it started bucking, and stalling. Today I used it once and it was fine. Other times as the day goes on it gets worse. Once It took about 5 minutes to get it started and then when I did it kept stalling.I am trying to think, as I seem to believe when the weather is warmer out it seems to act up. Today it was cooler out and it seemed to drive good, although I didn't drive it very far. I was told it probably was the fuel filter. I took it to have it changed. But surprise it is still doing it. The mechanic said he wasn't sure what it could be unless he took a look at it, but don't know how long it will take to find the problem, and I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on him just to search for the problem. The car is old and doesn't have much life left, so I don't want to put a lot of money into it. I really appreciate any help. Thanks
 
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Old 04-22-03, 04:01 PM
darrell McCoy
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How long since a good tune up?
Money ahead to let someone see if it has set a code.
 
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Old 04-22-03, 04:10 PM
Joe_F
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As Darrell suggested and start with my "The Basics" below.

As you said, don't spend a lot of green on those vehicles. That is a throwaway car at this point.
 
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Old 04-23-03, 11:25 PM
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Ever had new spark plug wires on it? If so, how long ago? Is the service engine light on?
 
  #5  
Old 05-09-03, 02:54 PM
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Sorry I never got back to you on the spark plug wire question before, but I just seen it now. No, the engine light is not on. Well I thought I corrected the problem, but apparently I didn't. The idle seemed low, and it doesn't automaticlly adjust the way it is suppossed to, so we upped the idle a little, and it worked fine for about a week or week and a half. Today it started again. It was bucking so bad I never thought I was going to make it home. I did notice a smell of like rubber burning, and when I got home and looked under the hood I noticed that when you touch the spark plug wires, two of them are very hot. Is this suppossed to be? Could it be that the problem. I just put in new gas filter, air filter, spark plugs. But I never changed the wires. Please tell me the wires are going to be the problem. Litttle short of cash for any major repairs, or a new car for that matter. Thanks!
 
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Old 05-10-03, 10:44 AM
Joe_F
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As mentioned, when was the last time it had a FULL tuneup?

That would be plugs, cap & rotor (if equipped), air and gas filters, PCV, oil change and filter, and ignition wires.

Do not adjust the idle speed, it is factory set and shouldn't be adjusted.

The wires should be changed. If it's worse when it's raining and damp out, the wires (or a crack in the distributor cap) are the likely cause.
 
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Old 05-10-03, 11:48 AM
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Not too great with car parts, so bare with me. As of yesterday, I changed the plugs and wires, the cap and rotor, and air filter. I had the gas filter changed somewhere else, would the pvc been changed when they changed the filter? Are the ignition wires the same as the spark plug wires? I took it for a quick drive yesterday after the wires were changed and it seemed ok, but I haven't tried it since. Thanks for all your help, and I'll let you know how it is working.
 
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Old 05-10-03, 11:50 AM
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Since we did most of it ourselves, is this what you considered a full tune up?
 
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Old 05-11-03, 08:04 AM
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Well, after all the help, time, and money so far, it still isn't working right. But if this helps any, it rides great until you sit idling for awhile, then it acts up.

I sat in the car while it was in park and idling for about 5 minutes, while I waited for someone to come out of the store. Then when I put it in drive and left, it got real bad, bucking real bad when you would give it the gas. Seemed like it wasn't bad when you were coasting, just while you are accelerating, put seemed like it wanted to stall when at a red light. By the time we got home there was sort of a rubber burning odor. If I was to take it to the mechanic to put it on the machine to find the problem, will any problem be found, or does the engine light have to come on to set a code or something?

If you are ready to give up on the help, just let me know. I will understand, I as myself, am getting really frustrated. Thanks!

Tammy
 
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Old 05-11-03, 11:38 AM
Joe_F
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A full tuneup is as I stated. Again, check autolibrary.org in my signature file to familiarize yourself more with automotive terminology and parts. Or, have a look at a manual at the local library.

Word of caution: These early Hyundais are junk so don't spend a lot of money fixing them. However, you have to verify if you have good fuel pressure as well as good ignition parts.

There is no "magic machine" that tells a mechanic what is wrong. Big fallacy. The machnes DO tell them what system the problem might lie or where to start.

It could have EGR valve problems, it could have a bad ignition module that cannot dissipate heat when it gets hot and causes the spark to partially shut down.

As I said, these are bargain basement cars and the parts show that .
 
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Old 05-11-03, 02:10 PM
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Hi all. I just wanted to throw in my 2 cents worth. After reading the symtoms it seems to me that since a tune-up (new plugs, etc) did not significantly resolve the problem, then I am wondering why the 'check engine light' is not on. Here is my wild a** guess. A dirty MAF sensor. If the MAF sensor passage is dirty or clogged, the engine usually start, but run poorly or stall and may not set a engine code. In fact, if the sensor wire is dirty, then the MAP is working as far as the ECM is concerned. If you do pull the codes, and they show lean running on all banks, and the engine stumbles, then clean your MAP sensor.
 
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Old 05-11-03, 08:45 PM
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Another thing I have seen is a bad sweep in the TPS causing erratic acceleration (bucking, surging).
 
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Old 05-12-03, 06:02 AM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

Very true.
 
  #14  
Old 06-02-03, 09:09 AM
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Well everyone, I took it to the dealer on this problem. They tell me its the fuel pump causing this behavior. The said its a little rusted and the tank and sending unit may have to be changed too if it cracks when trying to remove the pump. Is this a possible cause, as they want 600 to fix it? I am afraid that after I dish out the dough the problem will still be there. I rarely trust the dealer, as an example, when I took it in for this problem to be checked, they were more interested in the rotors needing to be change, a wheel alignment, shocks, get my point. My brakes were quiet when I took it there, now they seem to be grinding a little, if they would have only checked what they were suppossed to this might not be a problem. Sorry, got off the track here!
I am taking it for a second opinion today. Wouldn't a problem with a fuel pump cause a constant problem, or is it possible it overheats as it is idling. The one time it acted really bad I sensed an odor of rubber or such burning.
Thanks!
 
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Old 06-02-03, 09:15 AM
Joe_F
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It may have multiple problems. Try another Hyundai dealer and a couple of independent garages.
 
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Old 06-15-03, 04:36 PM
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I may have finally found myself a trusting mechanic!!!!

I took this trouble to a independant shop. He tested the fuel pressure on the car and it came back perfect. He came in and told me that it was a good thing that I didn't spend the $600 on the dealers solution that it was a gas pump, tank, and sender. After 15 minutes he felt it was the ignition coil. He replaced it, but it turned out the car was still giving him trouble. He removed the coil, (which I didn't have to pay for, since it wasn't the problem), and finally diagnosed after he ran a computerized diagnosis. It was the Distributor Assembly.

I was very happy that this mechanic had taken only 2 hours from start to finish, and saved me over $400, from what the dealer stated.

The dealer had the car for 9 hours and came up with this sham. The dealer didn't even run the computerized diagnosis, like they were suppossed to, atleast they didn't tell me they did! If they would have, the code was on there stating this problem. My thought is that they knew what it was, and told me I needed the pump, tank, and sender, would make $600 off me, stick the new distributor assembly in too, and who would be any wiser.

Beware of those dealers, this wasn't thie first time they tried this on me. I got a second opinion the first time and excused there error, but not the second time. I am finally awareof ther little scam!!!

Thanks everyone for all your help!!!!!!
 
  #17  
Old 06-15-03, 04:42 PM
Joe_F
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Not all dealers are like that, you just got two bad ones.

Nothing wrong with good independent garages---some will put dealers to shame. Good going.
 
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