1999 Escort ZX2 Serpentine Belt Replacement


Old 04-25-03, 01:39 PM
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1999 Escort ZX2 Serpentine Belt Replacement

Hi all,

1999 Ford Escort ZX2, 90k miles, 2.0L Zetec engine, automatic, a/c and p/s:

My oil change folks noticed this one, so I thought I'd throw it to you. The serpentine belt on the passenger side of my car is showing cracks in it about every centimeter. I realize this needs to be replaced soon, but I'm wondering if you experts out there think this is something I can handle myself, or do I need to take it somewhere to have done? I see the belt is fairly inexpensive in online parts stores, but upon looking at the engine compartment closely, there seems to be VERY little room to get the belt in and out of the engine bay. My Chilton's manual doesn't seem to explain the removal of this item very well, other than "remove belt and replace", so I thought I'd come here for some advice as to how to remove this belt, or whether or not it's worth my time and trouble.

Thanks again.
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Old 04-25-03, 08:40 PM
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Click on the link below for the R&R procedure for the belt.


A serpentine belt tool makes this job much easier. The tool basically consists of a long metal bar with interchangeable sockets. The bar is slim enoug to get in to VERY tight spaces. The tool sells for $20-$25 at most major auto parts stores. It'll pay for itself the first time you use it.
Old 04-26-03, 12:40 AM
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Thanks, knuckles; I'll give my local car parts folks a jingle, get the belt and the tool, too. Now, just gotta get use of my friend's garage sometime this weekend...

Thanks again.
Old 04-26-03, 07:00 AM
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Ditto on the serpentine belt tool. I just got one for 25 bucks at a swapmeet this past spring.
Old 04-30-03, 10:18 AM
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Hi guys,

Thought I'd post the procedure I had to go through to get this belt on. First, this is a two person job, because you can't be in two places at once, and second this job (on my car anyway) takes about two hours real-time (maybe less if you're good at this stuff). Third, I had to pay $46 for my serpentine belt tool, but at least I'll have it for the rest of my life (a total cost of around $80 for the repair, including the belt). That said, this is what we ran in to.

1. The procedure from the cybrrpartspro website leaves a lot to be desired. It left out a lot of minor details which I thought would be a good idea to post here. First, in order to have ANY chance of getting the belt off of the bottom pulleys, you must remove two plastic shrouds with a 10mm socket. The one that is parallel to your tires (which is the main one that covers up and protects those bottom pulleys) doesn't have to be completely removed, as we found that just by bending it backwards towards the back of the car, we had enough room to get our grimy little hands in there (that is, after we removed all but one of the bolts).

2. Naturally, the serpentine belt tool didn't come with a 13mm short socket, so we had to use a normal-length (1.5 inches?) 13mm socket my friend has. Do yourself a favor, if you can get ahold of a short (and I do mean short) 13mm socket, do so, because there's not a lot of room to work with in the ZX2 engine bay.

3. Use a really good light; my friend had one of those 500W halogen lights that sits on the ground and can be angled anywhere. Do be careful, as the bulb is VERY hot! (as I found out) If you do, you'll be able to see everything in the bay that you need to see.

4. Your best bet is to jack the car's passenger side high off the ground, so that you can use the breaker bar/belt tool from the UNDERSIDE of the car, not from the top of the engine bay. The reason is simple; because there are many hoses and wires in the way from the top side, it is MUCH easier to get a boatload of leverage on the tool from underneath the car than from above. Note that you have to jack the car high enough in order to get the tool to freely move underneath the vehicle.

5. To put on the new belt, I'd suggest putting it on in this manner; start at the top right, work your way left towards the firewall, then down, EXCEPT don't try to put the belt under the middle top pulley. Leave that one as your last one to do (see the cybrrpartspro diagram noted above for location), and once you've gotten your friend underneath the car to crank on the belt tool so you have slack to put the belt under that pulley, it will be a fairly easy task.

One final note, I'd recommend doing this on a cool car, to reduce the risk of being burnt. I drove 45 minutes to a friends house before we started, and we both felt the heat of that engine a few times!

Think that's about it. Thanks again for everyone's help.
Old 04-30-03, 10:48 AM
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Good followup and glad you got it done. Just remember that Autolibrary is free and you get what you pay for .

No replacement for the OEM manual. With that being said, mine arrive for the 84 Olds and the 89 Cavalier sometime this week.
Old 04-30-03, 01:16 PM
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Just so everyone knows, I meant no disrespect about the cybrrpartspro.com website; it's actually quite good: I just wanted to fill in the blanks, that's all.
Old 04-30-03, 04:56 PM
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Sure. It's just not a replacement for your own copy of the service manual
Old 05-10-09, 07:01 PM
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serpentine / drive belt diagram, ford escort

The following link is for a pic of a 02 escort, think that covers 1998 - 2004. I know the manual does not provide a photo, so here it is....

2002 Ford Escort Serpentine Belt
Old 05-11-09, 05:18 AM
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You're posting to a 6 year old thread, guy; probably doesn't own the car anymore.....
Old 04-16-11, 08:00 PM
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Thumbs up Posting to old threads can be a good thing.

@ the_tow_guy:

I'm glad nebkesam posted to a 6 year old thread. The thread is now 8 years old and that diagram came in handy today! Thanks!!

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