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Rotor stuck on 94 Toyota Tercel


Midmomike's Avatar
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05-04-03, 01:12 PM   #1  
Midmomike
Rotor stuck on 94 Toyota Tercel

My husband took the wheel, caliper, cotter pin and the rotor nut off the left, front disc brake, and the rotor won’t budge. He's tempted to force it off with a hammer.

The brakes started to squeak & squeal a week ago and my husband discovered one of the left shoes was gone.
Thank you.
Midmowife

 
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05-04-03, 01:28 PM   #2  
The nut and cotter pin you removed is for the axel shaft and wheel bearing and dosen't hold the rotor on. Also it needs to be torqued properly ( its somewhere around 140 lfs or more).

The rotor just sits between the hub and the wheel. It is proberly rusted on, spray with rust buster. There are two 8mmx1.25 holes in the rotor face to insert bolts to remove it. Put some tension on the bolts and tap gently on the hub face.

Larry

 
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05-04-03, 03:12 PM   #3  
Joe_F
I agree with Larry. Your husband should have consulted a service manual before forcing parts!

Check autolibrary.org below for the proper R&R instructions.

 
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05-04-03, 03:56 PM   #4  
Midmomike
Thanks, Larry. A couple more questions for ya:

- How do I lightly tap on the hub if the hub is behind the stuck rotor? If I could get the rotor out of the way, I wouldn't need to tap on the hub.

- Are these special order screws from Toyota, because I've tried every screw on the car?

Thanks again.
Michael, the moron

Editing: Thanks for the link, Joe. My husband didn't beat on anything -- just wanted to. Been there before? The Chilton info is very helpful.


Last edited by Midmomike; 05-04-03 at 05:30 PM.
 
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05-04-03, 04:23 PM   #5  
You tap on the face of the rotor where the wheel would sit against.

The 8mmx1.25 bolts are a standard hardware or auto parts item.

Larry

 
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05-05-03, 02:58 PM   #6  
This is how I had to remove my rotors after coming to the conclusion that they were held on by rust and nothing else:

I secured the car well on jackstands, blocked the rear wheels, and put the car in neutral and turned the steering wheel all the way in one direction. I Spayed rust buster the best I could attempting to get it between hub and rotor, then took a good heavy hammer and began pounding on the side of the rotor closest to the engine while rotating the rotor to get hard hits on it at different points. I had to rotate it because the brake rotor shield limited the area I could strike. It took a lot of pounding before the rotors broke free from the rust. These were heavy hits, the kind that will make the neighbors look out the window at you. I don't think any light tapping would have losened my rotors (not that I don't recommend trying light tapping). This was my last resort. I didn't have the option of using bolts. I had new rotors so I wasn't worried about damaging the existing ones. That's just my story.

Try Toyotaman's advice and get those bolts.

 
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05-05-03, 03:40 PM   #7  
Midmomike
Larry: The bolts did the trick. Thanks a lot. The Chilton manual didn't say anything about it.
Michael

 
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05-05-03, 06:30 PM   #8  
Joe_F
Normally, you don't need to get into that, so most books find no need to print that.

All of my rotors like that just plopped off

 
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