No Brakes?

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  #1  
Old 05-16-03, 08:32 AM
90nobrakLebaron
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No Brakes?

I have a 90 Chrysler Lebaron 4 wheel disc brakes. I just replaced the brake lines that were leaking on both sides. Bleed the lines but still have no brakes at all. With the leaking brake lines I was able to pump the brake to stop, now I cant stop at all. I replaced everything like it was before, is there something else that I need to do? Please some one with any info?
 
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  #2  
Old 05-16-03, 09:16 AM
Joe_F
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Do you get a clear steady stream of fluid out of each bleeder screw??? If not, there's still air in the lines.
 
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Old 05-16-03, 11:02 AM
darrell McCoy
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when bleeding lines, did you keep the Master cyl full at all times?
That much bleeding, it takes a considerable amount of fluid. Dont take long to MT it out.
 
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Old 05-17-03, 12:54 AM
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Are you bleeding all 4 wheels, and in what order?
Most cars (not all) require RR, LR, RF, LF
What is the condition of the brake lines you didn't replace?
 
  #5  
Old 05-18-03, 01:13 PM
90nobrakLebaron
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Ok, With the car off I have bleed the lines about 3 times. Keeping the master cylinder full at all times and a clear stream of brake fluid,and in correct order RR,LF,LR,RF. The pressure in the pedal does build up,but when I start the car the pedal goes back to the floor full of air? I was told sense it has a Booster to bleed the lines with the car running, I've tried that also but the pedal is steady going to the floor.So now I'm wondering will it make a difference if I bleed the master cylinder and try to start with a clean slate or not? The pedal is full of air, could it be something else?
 
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Old 05-18-03, 01:34 PM
darrell McCoy
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May sound far fetched, but is your helper holding the brake down till the bleeder is tightened? Else you will redraw air back into lines.
 
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Old 05-19-03, 09:31 AM
Joe_F
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Very true.
 
  #8  
Old 05-24-03, 02:33 PM
90nobrakLebaron
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What Now?

OK I have tried everything, went ahead and put a Brake Booster and Master cylinder but still no brake? What am I doing wrong? Or could there be something else wrong?
 
  #9  
Old 05-24-03, 03:50 PM
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Re: What Now?

Originally posted by 90nobrakLebaron
OK I have tried everything, went ahead and put a Brake Booster and Master cylinder but still no brake? What am I doing wrong? Or could there be something else wrong?
Did you use the proper fluid for that car?

NoBrakes, you don't bleed the system with the car running,
ever! You start with a full master cylinder and bleed all four
brakes down to the point where you see a steady stream of
liquid. Make sure the helper understands they have to hold
their foot on the floor till you have the bleeder shut. If after
bleeding all four wheels your pedal is nice and firm, then
you can test them...

Make sure the master cylinder is full and the cover on tight!

Apply the parking brake and put your foot on the brake!

Start the car...you should feel the pedal go down as
the power assist takes effect, that's normal. Carefully release
the parking brake and place the car in gear.

See if the brakes will hold the car while it's idling.

Try a short test drive, not going any faster than you can walk, and keep applying the brakes to see if they work.

If there's still air in the lines and the car won't stop, you're going to have to re-bleed the brake system.

Christopher
 
  #10  
Old 05-24-03, 05:13 PM
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There are a couple methods to isolate the problem. First, remove the lines from the master cylinder, use brass plugs to plug the holes the the lines screwed into. (Be VERY careful to make sure you get proper size and thread plugs or damage to the master cylinder will result. Pump the brake pedal a couple times. If the pedal gets very hard, then you've eliminated the master cylinder as the problem. If the pedal falls "off", the either a faulty master cylinder, or still air in it.
BTW, it is NOT recommended to push the brake pedal to the floor while bleeding brakes. 2/3-3/4 travel distance is sufficient. Also, who ever pumps the pedal for you, make sure they are using slow deliberate pumps, and not "stomping out a campfire"..
If the master cylinder checks good, then isolate the rear brakes from the front. This is done by clamping off the rear brake line(s).
Most parts stores sell approved hose clamps. If the pedal get's firm and stays firm, the problem is in the rear brake system. If it falls off, then it's in the front part of the brake system.
Next clamp off the front brake lines (keep the rear clamped also)
If the pedal still falls off, then you have a problem with a porportioning valve/combination valve (this is under the assumption you do not have antilock brakes, and there are no other rubber brake lines in the system.)If the pedal gets firm, remove the clamps on the rear hose(s). if the pedal remains firm, then the problem is dealing with the front brakes.
Make sure all the slides, guides, mounting hardware, move freely, and that the caliper piston moves freely. With your helper pressing the pedal, watch closely each caliper. You should be able to see the piston push the inside pad against the rotor and see the caliper assembly pull the outer pad to the rotor. Have you helper release the pedal, you should see the caliper release the pads. Check this carefully on both sides of the car. You will see more movement from the inner pad than the outter, but both calipers should move the same.
By the way, what kind of travel is there in the parking brake pedal? Does the pedal get tight at 1/3 - 1/2 way down, or does it travel a lot farther before holding tight?
Bleeding brakes on a car with the read shoes way out of adjustment can cause major headaches!
 
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